edjosh23 said:
Too late for either of mine... route the slot before cutting the piece -- or do it on the bigger back piece...
mind you Tannoy does it on the 45s of their 10" classic speaker (forget the name -- sure would like a set of those to fall off the back of the truck thou 🙂) and it is skookum.
dave
planet10 said:
Dave, I have tons of MDF left, I might just go back and route out a piece.
the quote about, I have no clue what that means.
I'm guessing the speaker company Tonnoy makes aperiodic boxes?.... I'm lost.
Well the project price is going to change, my mom is going to get me some doubleknit.
Thanks,
Josh
edjosh23 said:
One of the few commercial speakers i have lust for (for the asking thou it would have to be donated 🙂) It is aperiodic -- the 2 long channels on either side of the front face of the cabinet.
http://www.tannoy.com/Default.asp?Id=4068
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Given the amount required, the fabric store might just throw you a scrap... even if you pay $15/m for the required amount, the cost of the petrol to get to the fabric store will exceed the doubleknit cost. 🙂
dave
Dave,
I'm still waiting for the doubleknit so I haven't had much time to work on it, but I went to B&W Night at Georgia Home Theater to hear the new 800series with the Diamond tweeters. This was just supposed to be a listening test and reviews, but this guy decided he wanted to buy some McIntosh amps and the new B&W802D (Diamond). Well I gave him a few suggestions in front of some salesmen, and I was offered a job. I'm 17 years old and could out-talk the B&W rep and all the salesmen, so the owner offered me a job.
I also got a bunch of free stuff including the new Rotel enclycopedia which is actually really interesting and informative. I've just read a little bit, but it sounds like a great read for newbies.
Josh
I'm still waiting for the doubleknit so I haven't had much time to work on it, but I went to B&W Night at Georgia Home Theater to hear the new 800series with the Diamond tweeters. This was just supposed to be a listening test and reviews, but this guy decided he wanted to buy some McIntosh amps and the new B&W802D (Diamond). Well I gave him a few suggestions in front of some salesmen, and I was offered a job. I'm 17 years old and could out-talk the B&W rep and all the salesmen, so the owner offered me a job.
I also got a bunch of free stuff including the new Rotel enclycopedia which is actually really interesting and informative. I've just read a little bit, but it sounds like a great read for newbies.
Josh
edjosh23 said:
little bit off topic...
but its good to hear that there are some younger people here! i myself am 15 and i'm working on johns wonderful b3s (or is it N?) speakers...
i gave em a raw mdf listen with a cheapo amp a few days ago and i LOVE these things! i can't wait until they are painted to a piano finish BRIGHT orange and i have my gainclone back😎
nerd of nerds said:
I started when I was 15, started on ECA and then about 6 months ago moved over here to DIYaudio. I think we have a head start on all the future diyers that are young. This forum is definately the best forum I've been a member to.
Your GC back? I've built 3 Gainclones so far and working on more projects. Its amazing how much information you can learn in a single day.
I bought speakers from Georgia Home Theater a couple of month ago, I went back for more banana plugs (they have great Tributaries banana plugs for a good price) and asked the store manager a question, and he couldn't answer it so he invited me to this seminar/convention. I brought a friend and went to see about 40-50 people (all high rollers), almost all of them had 800 series B&Ws. I helped answer a guys questions and helped him decide what to get, $60k of equipment, and the owner asked me to work there.
There are definately some pluses to being here, along with building speakers for 1/3 of the price and sounding outstanding, you can be asked to work at one of the nicest audio shops in the state 🙂
Keep on reading and you will be building everything in your house.
Josh
edjosh23 said:
a 1/3 the price ... what can you buy new for $40.50 (i'm assumming 50 cents for the doubleknit)?
🙂
dave
I was talking about my wr125s actually, but yea with this project, I donno atleast 1/5 the price. But can you buy an irregular octagonal prism that is only 6" tall that would look perfect in my room? I think not, these puppies are priceless 😀 , well maybe not priceless.
and Dave your online, but not online? What is this?
Josh
and Dave your online, but not online? What is this?
Josh
😉 Lools like alex garner tannoy chief engineer and his team did a little borrowing from a couple of sources ; actually l dare say this new tannoy is a refinement of the onken vented enclosure by using aperoidic vents pioneered by dynaudio...... no?😱 just goes to show there is not much new in speaker design
cheers to all TC
cheers to all TC
edjosh23 said:
My computer is always on-line... i was downstairs doing some fixes to some big isophon co-axes so i can put them up for auction to-nite.
dave
qwad said:
Pioneered long before Dynaaudio was even on the map... one of the 1st mathematical treatments was by ted Jordon when he was at Goodmans (with their ARU -- acoustic resistance unit), but the technique pre-dates him by quite a bit -- GM had a ref IIRC.
dave
I did a little more work today on the irregualr octangular prisms 🙂
Dave I recut one of the aperiodic vents from a larger peice.
The boxes are still drying, this glue takes a long time to dry, no screws.
Here is the box with some carpet padding, oh and my Mom never went to get doubleknit so I used insulation and a little poly-fil on the exterior so you don't see the pink (doesn't look that great, but I dont care)
Here is a picture with stuffing, wiring, etc., but no poli-fil yet.
Here is one of the front, remember more sanding has to be done, along with cutting off the corners.
Here is one with some poli-fil, is this too much you think? It's not as much as it looks.
Thanks,
Josh
Dave I recut one of the aperiodic vents from a larger peice.
The boxes are still drying, this glue takes a long time to dry, no screws.
Here is the box with some carpet padding, oh and my Mom never went to get doubleknit so I used insulation and a little poly-fil on the exterior so you don't see the pink (doesn't look that great, but I dont care)
Here is a picture with stuffing, wiring, etc., but no poli-fil yet.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Here is one of the front, remember more sanding has to be done, along with cutting off the corners.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Here is one with some poli-fil, is this too much you think? It's not as much as it looks.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Thanks,
Josh
😀 Dave; like l wrote in my post it only goes to show there is nothing really new in speaker design, only a lot of refinement of ideas😀 regards TC,
btw josh you are doing a fine job on your 13 dollar spkrs......
btw josh you are doing a fine job on your 13 dollar spkrs......
Glue
Edjosh23,
My compliments. No ordinary box. You could have picked something less challenging, but look at the fun you would have missed!
It is difficult to get a seamless bond with multiple angled joints like that for a beginner( or old-timer, without some tricks). Any small deviation in the table saw cut angle gets multiplied, as you have probably already found out.
If the glue is taking a long time to dry, it is likely that it is the wrong kind of glue, or the gaps are too large at the joints. Either way, the strength is reduced - the smaller the gap, the stronger the joint. Try getting some clear packaging tape (heavy duty) at a building center/office supply store and use it to wrap everything together. Peels right off. Well, on plywood anyway.
Don't be afraid to use other woods. On this enclosure size, it won't matter that much. I think mdf is a poor cabinet material, myself, although easy to work and works well for multiple layer construction (contrained layer damping). Spruce, pine, or baltic birch plywood all have individual resonance signatures, and looks, too, which I prefer.
Good wood glue only needs about 10 lbs of pressure. Dry fit the assembly first, naturally, then adjust. You may have some do-overs to get tight joints. Use bondo and wood filler to patch the large gaps inside the enclosure. Silicone sealant on the smaller ones.
Old panty hose fabric will work for the vent. May also be used to contain polyfil from spilling into a port, or against the driver, etc.
Anyway you look at it, diy is far more rewarding the buying outright. Not as pretty as the Tannoy cabinets this time out, but with a little practice...
Tim
Edjosh23,
My compliments. No ordinary box. You could have picked something less challenging, but look at the fun you would have missed!
It is difficult to get a seamless bond with multiple angled joints like that for a beginner( or old-timer, without some tricks). Any small deviation in the table saw cut angle gets multiplied, as you have probably already found out.
If the glue is taking a long time to dry, it is likely that it is the wrong kind of glue, or the gaps are too large at the joints. Either way, the strength is reduced - the smaller the gap, the stronger the joint. Try getting some clear packaging tape (heavy duty) at a building center/office supply store and use it to wrap everything together. Peels right off. Well, on plywood anyway.
Don't be afraid to use other woods. On this enclosure size, it won't matter that much. I think mdf is a poor cabinet material, myself, although easy to work and works well for multiple layer construction (contrained layer damping). Spruce, pine, or baltic birch plywood all have individual resonance signatures, and looks, too, which I prefer.
Good wood glue only needs about 10 lbs of pressure. Dry fit the assembly first, naturally, then adjust. You may have some do-overs to get tight joints. Use bondo and wood filler to patch the large gaps inside the enclosure. Silicone sealant on the smaller ones.
Old panty hose fabric will work for the vent. May also be used to contain polyfil from spilling into a port, or against the driver, etc.
Anyway you look at it, diy is far more rewarding the buying outright. Not as pretty as the Tannoy cabinets this time out, but with a little practice...
Tim
Tim,
Thanks for the advise. I recut a few pieces including the back pannel which on paper should have been 2", I decided to recut it to 2.25" which worked much better. I used Gorrila Glue and figured out that a little all purpose super glue worked well to get the pieces into place before adding the Gorrila Glue. I've added lots of wood filler. I really didn't have many gaps when assembling, I found that my angled pieces (which we all cut at the same time so that they would all be the same angle) were a tad bit too long, which I sanded off.
The box is superizingly strong. The other day I held a ceder block, while standing on a cedar block, which was on the cabinet. I'm kinda light but thats still a lot of weight for a 6" tall cabinet.
As for the panty hose, I might go and buy some (which could be very odd while at the checkout couter) because the fiberlass and poly-fil just look ugly.
Last night I put the boxes in the pictures on top of the other side and listened, they sound pretty good. They are really great for $13. My Mom and I are remodeling the garage apartment ourselves and we got some really cheap cabinets that were made mostly of MDF so we have lots of oil based primer (I think thats what it is, so that the MDF won't expand) and I'm going to be painting the boxes night grey. I really don't think I could have asked for nicer surround speakers. After reading more I kinda with I had done dipole speakers, but I can't complain, the drivers were free. What I've done is listen to them with my Denon amp, 1804 and brought them up to movie listening volume, I think they can stand the power without being blown or putting too much stress on the driver.
My Dad came in and listened to them last night and thought they sounded pretty good and was telling me I need to finish these, then finish my WR125s. I talked to Dave a few nights ago and I'm going to add tweeters to them, and I told my Dad that and he said "well lets order them".
I wanted to know where I can purchase very low profile metal stands for these speakers. I found these stands, but does anyone know of any cheaper ones?
Thanks,
Josh
Thanks for the advise. I recut a few pieces including the back pannel which on paper should have been 2", I decided to recut it to 2.25" which worked much better. I used Gorrila Glue and figured out that a little all purpose super glue worked well to get the pieces into place before adding the Gorrila Glue. I've added lots of wood filler. I really didn't have many gaps when assembling, I found that my angled pieces (which we all cut at the same time so that they would all be the same angle) were a tad bit too long, which I sanded off.
The box is superizingly strong. The other day I held a ceder block, while standing on a cedar block, which was on the cabinet. I'm kinda light but thats still a lot of weight for a 6" tall cabinet.
As for the panty hose, I might go and buy some (which could be very odd while at the checkout couter) because the fiberlass and poly-fil just look ugly.
Last night I put the boxes in the pictures on top of the other side and listened, they sound pretty good. They are really great for $13. My Mom and I are remodeling the garage apartment ourselves and we got some really cheap cabinets that were made mostly of MDF so we have lots of oil based primer (I think thats what it is, so that the MDF won't expand) and I'm going to be painting the boxes night grey. I really don't think I could have asked for nicer surround speakers. After reading more I kinda with I had done dipole speakers, but I can't complain, the drivers were free. What I've done is listen to them with my Denon amp, 1804 and brought them up to movie listening volume, I think they can stand the power without being blown or putting too much stress on the driver.
My Dad came in and listened to them last night and thought they sounded pretty good and was telling me I need to finish these, then finish my WR125s. I talked to Dave a few nights ago and I'm going to add tweeters to them, and I told my Dad that and he said "well lets order them".
I wanted to know where I can purchase very low profile metal stands for these speakers. I found these stands, but does anyone know of any cheaper ones?
Thanks,
Josh
Lee Valley Tools has clamping guides and router accessories, is my favorite toy store, been in the mail order business a long time and they have an excellent reputation.
http://www.leevalley.com
http://www.leevalley.com
edj23,
Good progress then. Should be fun with a little high end added with the tweets.
I usually leave the back/top off to add/subtract fill. You should be fine with what you have. The main purpose in a box this small is to kill internal reflections. Give it a test, though before sealing it completely. Stuff can fall loose. In the unlikely event the box resonates then you will need to add bracing internally.
I'd pass on those little stands. Too light - like having a bowling ball on a kebob. Get some mdf, 2 x 6s, or other material and make the stand tall enough for the tweeter to end up at seated ear height (around 36"). Make a hollow pillar with a base on both ends. Fill the center opening with sand in a plastic bag, or modeling clay, if you can get it cheaply, then add the top plate. It will be heavy, but will not topple over at the slightest bump, either. You can run wire up the inside of the pillar, if convenient.
Another way would include just cutting and laminating 5 or 6 layers of 3/4" material together to form the column, add the base, and a top, if needed. Wrap it, paint it, or cover it with material of choice.
TC
Thought you fell off the earth down there, what with the greater gravity down low and all.
Is it true the drains circle backwards in Oz as compared to the northern hemishere?
Onkens are still honkin'. Sound good, although I cycle them in and out of service. Altec 511 horn/MR902 driver and 416 woofers.
Keep smilin'.
bzdang,
Doesn't every bathroom have the Lee Valley catalogue?
Tim
Good progress then. Should be fun with a little high end added with the tweets.
I usually leave the back/top off to add/subtract fill. You should be fine with what you have. The main purpose in a box this small is to kill internal reflections. Give it a test, though before sealing it completely. Stuff can fall loose. In the unlikely event the box resonates then you will need to add bracing internally.
I'd pass on those little stands. Too light - like having a bowling ball on a kebob. Get some mdf, 2 x 6s, or other material and make the stand tall enough for the tweeter to end up at seated ear height (around 36"). Make a hollow pillar with a base on both ends. Fill the center opening with sand in a plastic bag, or modeling clay, if you can get it cheaply, then add the top plate. It will be heavy, but will not topple over at the slightest bump, either. You can run wire up the inside of the pillar, if convenient.
Another way would include just cutting and laminating 5 or 6 layers of 3/4" material together to form the column, add the base, and a top, if needed. Wrap it, paint it, or cover it with material of choice.
TC
Thought you fell off the earth down there, what with the greater gravity down low and all.
Is it true the drains circle backwards in Oz as compared to the northern hemishere?
Onkens are still honkin'. Sound good, although I cycle them in and out of service. Altec 511 horn/MR902 driver and 416 woofers.
Keep smilin'.
bzdang,
Doesn't every bathroom have the Lee Valley catalogue?
Tim
Yes, every bathroom should! And every workshop should have a set of Robertson screwdrivers too 😉
Young fellow, you haven't lived until you've twisted the head off of a #12 wood screw with a square-recess driver bit, and then have to use pliers to get the head off of the end of the bit !
Young fellow, you haven't lived until you've twisted the head off of a #12 wood screw with a square-recess driver bit, and then have to use pliers to get the head off of the end of the bit !
Thanks Tim,
The Stands are for the TB w3 871s. They are going on the sides of my bed (where I watch movies). I'll weigh the W3 871s, but I doubt they are more than about 5lbs. The reason I want low profile is one of them is going to be in the corner of the room inbetween the bed and wall, which is actually only about 4" of space.
I've build stands before, and prefer it, but I think that a metal stand that is low profile would be best for these tiny speakers.
By the way, where can I get a clamp-on guide for the router, I didn't see it Lee Valley?
Thanks,
Josh
The Stands are for the TB w3 871s. They are going on the sides of my bed (where I watch movies). I'll weigh the W3 871s, but I doubt they are more than about 5lbs. The reason I want low profile is one of them is going to be in the corner of the room inbetween the bed and wall, which is actually only about 4" of space.
I've build stands before, and prefer it, but I think that a metal stand that is low profile would be best for these tiny speakers.
By the way, where can I get a clamp-on guide for the router, I didn't see it Lee Valley?
Thanks,
Josh
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