Heres some pictures of the MUNTZ undressed.... as well as an AFTER shot of the whole board. I have yet to PRY OPEN that defective transistor and sand it down to thin and glue it onto that transistor there.... Soon it will look very nice in there. I need to find a inductor that fits as that Mouser one will barely fit I fear. Still looking. THANKS ALL!!!.... BDBD/2022
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it appears to be 3/8ths or 10mm WIDE x 9/16th or 14.3mm...... Uggggggg MIGHT be able to grind away the bottom a little to squeeze it in there but WIDE.... Not sure I have 3.5 EXTRA mm is the real problem I think. Thanks Perry.... Still searching... will find. BDBD/2022
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the 24 inch Yardstick with the RAZOR EDGE them NUNS used to BEAT ME with after Catholic School is still only in Gods INCHES.... LOL.... I gotta get a MM thingy.... measurement stick thingy.... OK. BDBD/2022
122J.... Perhaps the numbering system is updated. Cant seem to find a 125J out there anywhere but I did find a 123J BUT that last number there.... its not a 5. MIGHT just purchase a couple of those 123J's since they are cheap and see how/if they work ok. These need to be SHIELDED in a Ferrite Core I believe, encapsulated.
THANKS Perry. BDBD/2022
THANKS Perry. BDBD/2022
To determine the value (if you're not convinced of the true value), Connect the remaining good inductor of the same value in series with a 1k resistor. Set the generator to 1v AC. Connect the generator across the series inductor/resistor (generator ground on the inductor). Sweep the generator from 10Hz to 10kHz. Post the AC voltage across the inductor at 10, 100, 1000 and 10,000Hz. You may have to use your scope to measure the voltage if your meter doesn't have a wide enough bandwidth.
I bought an LCR meter for 40 bucks... VICHY DM-4070 brand. I noticed that you can measure with the generator and scope.... Practice makes perfect. OK.... My THINKING at this juncture is that the Tantalum Cap or the Inductor or both took a crap and in doing so it caused all the BASS signal to flow into only ONE channel thus that channel ran much hotter than that other one and soon.... KABOOM, there went the power transistor. Uneven performance and heat issues caused a bad situation. Its much nicer now in regards to HEAT, hardly gets warm but after a while... warm. I need to figure out that INDUCTOR so I will wait. I get the LCR meter in the mail soon and I will measure it then. I really dont want to do anymore REMOVAL of components as each time I do it seems the board is brittle and loses its PAD.... Gotta add jumpers now to that Tantalum cause... board is brittle. Ok... Back to PLAY..... BDBD/2022
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theres someone in GREECE that has these.... Greece... my goodness. As these go theres a K at the end that represents 10% tolerance and J is 5%. MINE are 125J so I was wondering what the tolerance difference would make. 10% vs 5% tolerance. Uggggggg I been searching all day and night for these and they in GREECE.... Go figure. Will cost me another 25 bucks cause of shipping. Everything at Mouser is out of stock it seems and DigiKey is a struggle. WELL at least I know they exist on planet Earth.... 1250mh is the number.........
BDBD/2022
BDBD/2022
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When you get your inductance meter, measure the remaining 125J inductor. 1200mH seems high. The units of the original could be in pH or mH. There's no point in spending money on shipping before you know for certain, the true value.
Did you see post #66?
Did you see post #66?
Mornin Perry..... First off, is a 10% tolerance that big of a difference for a filter circuit compared to 5% tolerance?...
And yes I noticed that Mouser link there BUT that inductor is not shielded or encapsulated. I am guessing thats important. Mine are all shielded type and 5% tolerance. At this point I am gonna wait till the meter arrives and see for certain. I suppose i have to pull that good one to measure it. I would try a more advanced measurement technique but I really fear destroying the inductor in the process. Talk about fine stranded copper wire.... Unreal. OK..... I have a LINEAR POWER MODEL 120 from 1977 that needs attention next... and then a ZAPCO M-80 amp that sounds like a chainsaw upon powering it up. BOTH them amps in fact seem to make a loud ratcheting sound.... Hmmmmm Power Source filtering?.... They WORK but need attention. Endless TOIL till I get all these old relics to come back to LIFE.... LEARNING...... BDBD/2022
The tolerance doesn't mean that all of the inductors will be 10% off of their stated value. I don't think these are graded like CPUs and GPUs. Changes in the ferrite material (which can vary from one batch to another) can change the value of the inductor.
The ferrite casing isn't shielding. The ferrite is meant to pass magnetic waveforms.
If you feel that the $25 shipping is worth the cost, by all means, use that option.
The ferrite casing isn't shielding. The ferrite is meant to pass magnetic waveforms.
If you feel that the $25 shipping is worth the cost, by all means, use that option.
OK... Pass Magnetic Waveforms... man theres so much to learn Perry.... Like learning a strange new language.... MATH BASED language. Uggggg I am old and still feel like Alice In Wonderland with Blinders here.... LOL.... I conntacted them folks in GREECE and let them know I SEEK a 125J so we will see if they have any or if the 125K is only available.
FANS in the mail today so SOON I will try and BLOW UP that GORILLA amp.... either it blows up, or it passes the MINISTRY TEST....
OK, Thanks!!!!! BDBD/2022
FANS in the mail today so SOON I will try and BLOW UP that GORILLA amp.... either it blows up, or it passes the MINISTRY TEST....
OK, Thanks!!!!! BDBD/2022
ALRIGHT...... The MUNTZ...... Them INDUCTORS arrived from GREECE...LOL... and yes I TRIED to remove/save the ORIGINAL one but it broke upon removal. so NO measurement of the original. GREAT..... BUT as I mentioned them ones from Greece arrived and I measured them to be 1.3 h.... I tried the Mh setting but no reading. 1.3henry is the verdict as them new ones WORK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!........ I installed new Tantalum caps there and new inductors and IT WORKS. My goodness, the MUNTZ actually sounds pretty good now. LOUD and CLEAR.... Strong, no HEAT at all really... Only thing I notice is a slightly different voltage measurement on a single bank of 2 transistors... only like a 10th or so of a volt different... 6.95 vs 7.10 v.... Pretty close BUT the others all read 6.95 so I notice that one "set" there... running slightly different. Dont seem to make much difference in regards to sound. Sounds good now.... YAY!!!!! Gave it some paint.... Will make a short clip for my You Tube page soon.... The MUNTZ LIVES!!!!!!!........ I believe this is my FIRST actual "repair"... I have swapped out parts etc before but NEVER have I ever BOUGHT A DEAD RELIC.... Sat there for literally WEEKS staring at it... buying PARTS.... one at a TIME...LOL..... WELL... a METER, a DIODE, 2 Power Transistors, 2 Driver transistors, 29 capacitors and 2 INDUCTORS later.... Uggggggggggg I THINK I finally fixed this thing.... TOMORROW I will set it up with 4 speakers and put it through its paces... Get it to run hot and see.... Keep yas posted. IT LIVES!!! BDBD/2022