Do you mean the sides of the driver being close to the edges of the enclosure walls, or the enclosures themselves being close to the house walls?
Matt.
Matt.
Hi ewollowe,
imo an optimal choice of a driver for your purpose is a single SBA 12" driver per side for AU$ 259/pc at Wagner's or make them an offer they won't be able to refuse, to push the price down a bit. 🙂
imo an optimal choice of a driver for your purpose is a single SBA 12" driver per side for AU$ 259/pc at Wagner's or make them an offer they won't be able to refuse, to push the price down a bit. 🙂
Matt, enclosure walls. The baffle cut out is about 14" and the enclosure is just over 15" wide, I think the driver would fit but it wouldn't have much room to breath at the sides. Might do as a stop gap measure though.
Lojzek thank you for the recommendation but I think my head has been turned by this humungous faital pro beastie? 😀
Lojzek thank you for the recommendation but I think my head has been turned by this humungous faital pro beastie? 😀
Hi ewollowe, could you clarify please, are the speaker drivers too close to the enclosure side walls, or are the enclosures too close to the house side walls?
Cheers,
Matt
Cheers,
Matt
Hi ewollowe, could you clarify please, are the speaker drivers too close to the enclosure side walls, or are the enclosures too close to the house side walls?
Cheers,
Matt
Sorry Matt I thought I was clear? I think the speaker drivers would be very close to the enclosure side walls.
ewollowe, you showed an interest in econowave in another thread. Like with so many other examples, the size of the driver should be what it is, no smaller, no larger. It controls dispersion. Raw output is not a primary concern (although with larger drivers neither does it have to be).
Don't worry. It still expands vertically as it moves rearward. Not that that is even the point. And not that it would even necessarily be an issue if your Qc was a little high. Down below 100Hz you can do a lot and get away with it.I think the driver would fit but it wouldn't have much room to breath at the sides.
Hi AllenB,
I'm deeply hindered by being completely smitten with multiple design philosophies. I am no purist.
I'll be convinced of Geddes or Danley one moment then be lusting after a linkwitz or bipole design the next.
One thing I do know (and only recently learned) is that I most certainly prefer the dynamics of a large woofer to a smaller "higher fi" speaker. The faitalpro driver seems like a very good deal to me price wise (especially for Australia), so why not go down that road? I could certainly econowave it further down the line yes? That's if I went with constant directivity, I've played with some bipole stuff too and enjoyed it.
I'm deeply hindered by being completely smitten with multiple design philosophies. I am no purist.
I'll be convinced of Geddes or Danley one moment then be lusting after a linkwitz or bipole design the next.
One thing I do know (and only recently learned) is that I most certainly prefer the dynamics of a large woofer to a smaller "higher fi" speaker. The faitalpro driver seems like a very good deal to me price wise (especially for Australia), so why not go down that road? I could certainly econowave it further down the line yes? That's if I went with constant directivity, I've played with some bipole stuff too and enjoyed it.
Don't worry. It still expands vertically as it moves rearward. Not that that is even the point. And not that it would even necessarily be an issue if your Qc was a little high. Down below 100Hz you can do a lot and get away with it.
Very good to know, thanks mate.
I get that way too. Once you commit to an idea and begin a real design, you can see the limitations. Sometimes I have turned my back on months of hard work, disappointed at what has been wasted, but glad to see the real reasons for it all.I'm deeply hindered by being completely smitten with multiple design philosophies.
This isn't as deep as analysing speaker design philosophies so I can simply say that you are on to something here. Not that there needn't be different ways to reach this result. I think if you like the larger woofer then you'll really like the compression driver tweeter (once you have it tamed 😉)I most certainly prefer the dynamics of a large woofer to a smaller "higher fi" speaker.
I get that way too. Once you commit to an idea and begin a real design, you can see the limitations. Sometimes I have turned my back on months of hard work, disappointed at what has been wasted, but glad to see the real reasons for it all.
This isn't as deep as analysing speaker design philosophies so I can simply say that you are on to something here. Not that there needn't be different ways to reach this result. I think if you like the larger woofer then you'll really like the compression driver tweeter (once you have it tamed 😉)
I'm pretty sure this is the route I'm travelling. Any opinion on the cheap faitalpro CD?
Faital Pro HF102 HF Compression Driver 30W - DJ City
My ear seems to be pretty forgiving of colouration but what I'm learning is that compression is really obvious to me.
A good friend of mine has a fine set of quality bookshelf speakers but they just sound so small and compressed compared to some of the stuff I've lazily thrown together?
Compression, yes. Dome tweeters don't sound the same once they have warmed up. They don't sound the same on the same song played at a different level. So, maybe they also sound different instantaneously.
Compression tweeters are good if this is a concern to you. However I notice that the HF102 has a 1" voice coil?
Compression tweeters are good if this is a concern to you. However I notice that the HF102 has a 1" voice coil?
Well this one gets very high recommendations and it's only a 1" too?
Peerless by Tymphany DFM-2535R00-08 1" Compression Horn Driver 2/4-Bolt 8 Ohm
More expensive in in Australia than the faital pro.
Peerless by Tymphany DFM-2535R00-08 1" Compression Horn Driver 2/4-Bolt 8 Ohm
More expensive in in Australia than the faital pro.
What are the goals from your bass drivers?
Nothing too serious at all, I don't listen loud. 30 hz? I'm not trying to reproduce earthquakes. The driver has heaps of headroom, I can upgrade my amp and equalize further in the future if need be.
I'm pretty sure this is the route I'm travelling. Any opinion on the cheap faitalpro CD?
Faital Pro HF102 HF Compression Driver 30W - DJ City
My ear seems to be pretty forgiving of colouration but what I'm learning is that compression is really obvious to me.
A good friend of mine has a fine set of quality bookshelf speakers but they just sound so small and compressed compared to some of the stuff I've lazily thrown together?
HF102 recommended minimum crossover by Faital Pro is 2.6 khz, though that is based on full power application in a pro sound usage case. At home, you will be able to utilize a lower crossover, but I would not suggest it is a good match for a 15" woofer. 12 or 10" woofer, perhaps a better choice. Response is drooping below 2khz on their specified horn.
FaitalPRO | HF Drivers | HF102
I'd suggest a ~800 hz or lower crossover with a 15" woofer, for a directivity match through the crossover frequency.
The HF108R has a larger diaphragm, will tolerate a lower crossover than the HF102, and has a much stronger magnetic gap strength of 2.1T vs 1.3T.
Lowest recommended xover of the HF108R is 1.3khz, though that is based on the expected output of pro sound usage. You might consider trying a crossover just below 1khz with this driver for home use.
Sorry Matt I thought I was clear? I think the speaker drivers would be very close to the enclosure side walls.
Sorry mate, mine was a double post as I couldn’t see my original reply. My apologies 😱
I don’t think the enclosure width would be a problem.
Cheers,
Matt.
I’d also be looking for a CD that can do a XO of 1kHz or less. I’m currently using a B&C DE250 in a SEOS15, XO’d at around 1kHz.
Previously I’d used a Dayton D250P (flange mount) with a Dayton H812 horn which gave me a start. If you could source a decent controlled directivity waveguide to suit a 1kHz XO it would be even better.
The Dayton parts are available from WES Components at reasonable prices, with the exception of flange/threaded adapters for the compression drivers (if required). I’d strongly recommend a MiniDSP 2x4 as a good active XO and EQ option.
Cheers,
Matt.
Previously I’d used a Dayton D250P (flange mount) with a Dayton H812 horn which gave me a start. If you could source a decent controlled directivity waveguide to suit a 1kHz XO it would be even better.
The Dayton parts are available from WES Components at reasonable prices, with the exception of flange/threaded adapters for the compression drivers (if required). I’d strongly recommend a MiniDSP 2x4 as a good active XO and EQ option.
Cheers,
Matt.
- Status
- Not open for further replies.
- Home
- Loudspeakers
- Multi-Way
- multiple cheap 15" vs one expensive 15"