Post #159
Hi kornnylike,
Thanks for the additional data. I assume, that the overall dimensions are correct (I derived them from the manufacturers data/drawings)?
Regards,
Hi kornnylike,
Thanks for the additional data. I assume, that the overall dimensions are correct (I derived them from the manufacturers data/drawings)?
Regards,
I recommend MDF - it is stiffer, and less likely to resonate. If you use plywood then use the thickest you can, and consider more bracing,and stiffeners.
Keep the internal dimensions the same.
Don't know where you dwell or the conditions but you might to consider using marine grade - less likely to 'fall apart' when the humidity is high.
MDF is heavy! I built a mini-platforms [with casters] for when I had to move my LH transmission line speakers.
Posts #159/162
Hi Y'all,
Here is an updated drawing of the B&C 12PS100 showing the dimensions for the cone, and the area needed for cone correction in the middle of the driver.
Regards,
Hi Y'all,
Here is an updated drawing of the B&C 12PS100 showing the dimensions for the cone, and the area needed for cone correction in the middle of the driver.
Regards,
Tb46
I recheck all the measurements of the b&c 12ps100 cone dimension several times to make sure that they are all correct.😀
Hi Chaps,
Looks like you can test the same volume correction (first stage) of post#131 together with a centre brace, for the Tham12. It counts for both models of the PD.12SB30, old and new.
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Hi kornnylike,
How did you measure the depth from the front to the centre of the dome and the depth from the edge of the dome to the front?
The reason I ask is because TB46's model, based on your measurements seems odd. When I checked my own drawing it looks like you measured the depth from the edge of the cone (where the cone ends and the surround begins) instead of using the real front See picture;
Djim and Tb46
After reading Djim post I recheck all the measurements and found that few of them was a little bit off. This one I make sure it was measured correctly.
Please let me know if you guys need anything else
After reading Djim post I recheck all the measurements and found that few of them was a little bit off. This one I make sure it was measured correctly.
Please let me know if you guys need anything else
Hi Djim and kornnylike,
What is the dimension from the mounting edge of the speaker to the triple roll surround (tip of the rolls and approximate center)? That still looks a little deep based on kornnylike's data in Post #159 (15/32" - 0.46875" [11.9mm]).
Regards,
What is the dimension from the mounting edge of the speaker to the triple roll surround (tip of the rolls and approximate center)? That still looks a little deep based on kornnylike's data in Post #159 (15/32" - 0.46875" [11.9mm]).
Regards,
Post #171
Hi kornnylike,
Are we over-working the dtails yet? 🙂 Please, insert your measurements.
Regards,
Hi kornnylike,
Are we over-working the dtails yet? 🙂 Please, insert your measurements.
Regards,
Plywood is both stiffer and lighter than mdf, but not as damp, ply is by far the prefered sub and pa material. 5 ply is stiffer and cheaper than many-ply baltic, but can have voids. I recently built with half inch ply with great results, braced properly.
Hi Y'all,
Here is the updated side view of the B&C 12PS100 with approximate areas for consideration in AkAbak @ S4, and possible cone correction:
Regards,
Here is the updated side view of the B&C 12PS100 with approximate areas for consideration in AkAbak @ S4, and possible cone correction:
Regards,
I don't see why you can't use a THAM or MTH fold for a TH with the same throat, mouth, and horn length dimensions.
You cannot use corner reflector on the mouth of the THAM fold to get the same performance as the MTH.
Personally, I prefer the multiple mouth exit options of the MTH.
You cannot use corner reflector on the mouth of the THAM fold to get the same performance as the MTH.
Personally, I prefer the multiple mouth exit options of the MTH.