Noise from Opus
I just finished wiring up my Opus for dual mono operation. I have music coming out from the speakers just fine, but I also hear clicks and pops coming out from the speakers (like listening to bad LP).
The strange thing is, I did not hear this noise when I setup only 1 OPUS board in stereo.
This is my receiver jumper settings:
AIF_MS: hi
TXSRC: hi
AIFCONNF1: lo
AIFCONNF0: hi
I have 2 sets of 5 wires branching out from the receiver board, 1 set to the Left Opus board, and another to the Right Opus board.
This is my Opus jumper settings:
I2S: hi
DM1: lo
DM0: lo
MUTEB: hi
MODE: hi or lo
IWO: hi
RSTB: hi
ZERO: hi
DIFFHW: hi
M8X: lo
The from the Opus, I followed the instructions from the data sheet as follow:
Left Opus board:
VOUTLP and VOUTRN tied to pin 2 XLR
VOUTLN and VOUTRP tied to pin 3 XLR
GND to pin 1 XLR
Right Opus board:
VOUTLN and VOUTRP tied to pin 2 XLR
VOUTLP and VOUTRN tied to pin 3 XLR
GND to pin 1 XLR
The clicks and pops are coming from both left and right channel, so I do not think there is something wrong with either Opus board. Maybe the noise is because I wire the output of Opus directly into the Neutrik jack without using Ballsie board (no low-pass filtering)?
Did anyone here have the same problem by any chance?
😕
I just finished wiring up my Opus for dual mono operation. I have music coming out from the speakers just fine, but I also hear clicks and pops coming out from the speakers (like listening to bad LP).
The strange thing is, I did not hear this noise when I setup only 1 OPUS board in stereo.
This is my receiver jumper settings:
AIF_MS: hi
TXSRC: hi
AIFCONNF1: lo
AIFCONNF0: hi
I have 2 sets of 5 wires branching out from the receiver board, 1 set to the Left Opus board, and another to the Right Opus board.
This is my Opus jumper settings:
I2S: hi
DM1: lo
DM0: lo
MUTEB: hi
MODE: hi or lo
IWO: hi
RSTB: hi
ZERO: hi
DIFFHW: hi
M8X: lo
The from the Opus, I followed the instructions from the data sheet as follow:
Left Opus board:
VOUTLP and VOUTRN tied to pin 2 XLR
VOUTLN and VOUTRP tied to pin 3 XLR
GND to pin 1 XLR
Right Opus board:
VOUTLN and VOUTRP tied to pin 2 XLR
VOUTLP and VOUTRN tied to pin 3 XLR
GND to pin 1 XLR
The clicks and pops are coming from both left and right channel, so I do not think there is something wrong with either Opus board. Maybe the noise is because I wire the output of Opus directly into the Neutrik jack without using Ballsie board (no low-pass filtering)?
Did anyone here have the same problem by any chance?
😕
Re: Noise from Opus
I would double check and possibly reconnect your I2S wiring. Also be careful when routing your I2S wires. Try to keep them from running in parallel with your analog wires. Keep the I2S nice and short, stacking works best here.
Double check that the output format of the SPDIF board and the input format of the OPUS boards are the same.
I would also leave RESETB and ZERO open. Do not pull them high.
The fact that you are not using the ballsie module is not a problem at all.
Cheers!
Russ
hbarki said:
I would double check and possibly reconnect your I2S wiring. Also be careful when routing your I2S wires. Try to keep them from running in parallel with your analog wires. Keep the I2S nice and short, stacking works best here.
Double check that the output format of the SPDIF board and the input format of the OPUS boards are the same.
I would also leave RESETB and ZERO open. Do not pull them high.
The fact that you are not using the ballsie module is not a problem at all.
Cheers!
Russ
I would encourage people to use the Twisted Pear support forum . So we don't clutter up this thread with support related posts.
Cheers!
Russ
Cheers!
Russ
As far as a layout of the parts goes, would it be best to get the LCPS as far away from the other modules as possible? Or does that not matter?
Thanks
Darren
PS . I have used the TP forum before but got no replies.
Thanks
Darren
PS . I have used the TP forum before but got no replies.
DarrenWadsworth said:
Its not very critical.
I will see whats happening with email notification on the support forum.
Cheers!
Russ
Hi,
Does anyone have an experience using AES / EBU input with the WM8804 input module ?
No information on the datasheet.
Is it possible to swap the 75 ohms resistor with a 110 ohms resistor and just add a 1:1 pulse transformer ?
Thanks
Does anyone have an experience using AES / EBU input with the WM8804 input module ?
No information on the datasheet.
Is it possible to swap the 75 ohms resistor with a 110 ohms resistor and just add a 1:1 pulse transformer ?
Thanks
Why would you want to switch to a worse interface? There is a good reason high performance RF systems use coax.
Why AES / EBU ?
It's a high level interface (5v p-p compared to 0,5V p-p), differential. So the input receiver can do better job.
SPDIF with RCA plugs are cheap interface, designed for low cost purpose on low cost machines.
AES /EBU is the interface used by studio.
Real 110 ohms cables and professionals XLR plugs are easy to find and does not cost a lot.
The way to use an input transformer is to cut the possible ground loop between CD drive and DAC
It's a high level interface (5v p-p compared to 0,5V p-p), differential. So the input receiver can do better job.
SPDIF with RCA plugs are cheap interface, designed for low cost purpose on low cost machines.
AES /EBU is the interface used by studio.
Real 110 ohms cables and professionals XLR plugs are easy to find and does not cost a lot.
The way to use an input transformer is to cut the possible ground loop between CD drive and DAC
you can still send S/PDIF data over a 110ohm balanced line, such as AES/EBU. I know the DEQ2496 and the SRC2496 allow selection of output data in either format, for either hardware, so S/PDIF data on AES/EBU connectors.
AES is a superior interface IMHO
AES is a superior interface IMHO
Panel hole specs for TORX142?
Does anyone have the data sheet for Toshiba's TORX 142LF? I am designing my back panel and would like to know the cutout and hole specs. I cannot find the datasheet for this input module on Toshiba's web page. Has it been discontinued? Can I use the hole specs for a different Toshiba toslink input?
Thank you.
Does anyone have the data sheet for Toshiba's TORX 142LF? I am designing my back panel and would like to know the cutout and hole specs. I cannot find the datasheet for this input module on Toshiba's web page. Has it been discontinued? Can I use the hole specs for a different Toshiba toslink input?
Thank you.
http://rocky.digikey.com/WebLib/Toshiba/Web Data/TORX142L.pdf
Toshiba's web site stinks. The 142LF is in production, and is their top receiver (fastest).
Toshiba's web site stinks. The 142LF is in production, and is their top receiver (fastest).
BrianDonegan said:
You're the man! Thanks for the speedy response.
What do you think of stacking all the modules (Ballsie included) except the power supplies?
Is these a provision for a power LED somewhere?
Stacking will get you the shortest wires between boards, making it the optimum configuration (My next build will be a big stack on it's side, except power supplies).
It's easy to rig an led off of one of the power supply outputs, just use a resistor inline. You could also tap off one of the wm8804 board's leds. I use the NON_AUDIO led and use a bicolor led... shows red when no signal present, green when good.
EDIT: Mouser 604-WP937EGW
It's easy to rig an led off of one of the power supply outputs, just use a resistor inline. You could also tap off one of the wm8804 board's leds. I use the NON_AUDIO led and use a bicolor led... shows red when no signal present, green when good.
EDIT: Mouser 604-WP937EGW
BrianDonegan said:
I am considering the exact same thing. I haven't quite figured out the right angle mount yet--either to the base plate or back plate of the chassis.
Edit: Based on the metals that are readily available, it looks like I will be attaching the side mounted stack of boards to the base plate.
Jumper settings?
Thanks Brian!
Good gravy! I did a forum search for that. Right under my nose. I take it that is exactly the settings I want.
Darren
Thanks Brian!
Good gravy! I did a forum search for that. Right under my nose. I take it that is exactly the settings I want.
Darren
Pulse-R said:
The connector is really durable and exactly like the other connectors common in studios, which is why they are so often used in professional-ish gear. So, it is convenient, but inferior to BNC/coax for the application. I'll now bow out of this debate since this thread is not the place for it.