Moving sub woofers from car to apartment?

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Hello, this is my first post and I apologize if my etiquette is off or anything but you guys seem like experts and I have been struggling a lot with this.

I have two 12 inch sub woofers with a 600w amp in a box currently in my car. I would like to move them into my new apartment and was wondering what exactly I would need to do that.

I also have two different receivers not currently being used and was wondering if I could connect the sub woofers to them. The receivers are all two channel and somewhat
 
and somewhat....

Car subs generally are tuned rather high, first thing first is to figure out their tuning frequency and overall frequency response using a program like winisd. That'll get us a starting point. The 600W amp is useless indoors unless you built a 12.6V power supply to mimic the car's power source. The receivers may or may not be useful- probably not terribly useful being likely low power, and the subs exceedingly low sensitivity and needing some frequency shaping. More likely, a standalone subamp amp from dayton audio at parts express would be a better choice.
 
What sort of subs, although badman is right about most subs being tuned high and being less efficient than we like there are exceptions

If you could find the subs online and provide links/ we would be better able to help. It would probably involve building a pair of new boxes tho. What is your aim here, music? home theatre? or a mix of both?

I have a pair of old Cerwin Vega car subs here and they are still in the tiny 19 litre car boxes ( WAF factor working here) despite the fact that they need and deserve big TLs
 
Let us know what the receivers you have are, or figure out if either can be bridged.

Try Googling WinISD Pro. Enter the driver's T/S parameters, and see what you can get with different enclosure sizes.
It doesn't work on Mac, IIRC.
 
65 litres will give you a hump in response and good power handling.
95 litres is better and will go louder with less power, a pair of these will rock the building , 95 litres will give much better SQ providing the drivers can delivers anything other than "DoofDoof" and stuffing with fibreglass will lower Fc and the more important F10 quite a bit.
 

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Sub base is possible, I modelled these at 8mm X-Max which is 6.3mm plus 15%.
30 watts will overdrive these at 30 watts but the F10 is lower than 20hz.
So any box size between 65 litres and 200 litres stuffed with fibreglass. 300 has great depth but poor power handling.

2400mm of 14 inch Sonotube has an internal volume of 242 litres
1800mm of 14inch Sonotube has an internal volume of 181 litres ( all these figures are in the Sonotube website BTW

Size Chart - Sonoco Construction Products
 

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Here's the graph I saved before doing the screen dump, 'sposed to dump then save.
Don't forget you have two drivers in unison so add 3db to the total output
 

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How much bass do you expect to be a able to use in an apartment anyways? My studio apartment is in a quadplex and I know that if my next door neighbor hooked up a pair of twelves in his living room the entire building would hear them.
 
Thank you very much for your help, just a few more questions:

Basically (because I am not familar with many of the terms you used hah) I need to get a new box with a volume between 65 and 200 litres? And what, a 30 watt amp?

What is the problem then with using my current box?

And I am not familiar with the sonotube or fibreglass concepts where exactly do they fit in, I mean where do they go and how much more do they bring to the table

because...

dheming I don't really plan on using the max power on these (very often at least). I have one group of students living below me and a deaf landlords mother on the bottom.

I am not entirely well versed in these terms and phrases as I mentioned earlier so help in what is needed to be bought exactly would help
 
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