Oh yes, the source.....😡
http://cgi.ebay.com/THERMALLOY-EXTR...hZ003QQcategoryZ66946QQtcZphotoQQcmdZViewItem
The angry face was because when I purchased them, shipping was MORE than the actual product; and I only live 2 states away. So goes ebay I guess.
http://cgi.ebay.com/THERMALLOY-EXTR...hZ003QQcategoryZ66946QQtcZphotoQQcmdZViewItem
The angry face was because when I purchased them, shipping was MORE than the actual product; and I only live 2 states away. So goes ebay I guess.
Is that heavy heatsink really necessary? The existing seems effective enough - is this heasink for the modded, bridged, with the upgraded monster power supply you were planning?
For the unit to operate as is (with mods to overload, etc) , the existing heat sink should be fine? I plan on eventually using four channels to biamp my Maggies...
For the unit to operate as is (with mods to overload, etc) , the existing heat sink should be fine? I plan on eventually using four channels to biamp my Maggies...
I know this post went cold but I'll try anyway.
I just got my DCP501 in the mail for less than $50, shipping included. It's all banged up and the DVD drive won't read, but I bought it for the amp board only anyway. I just finished my first ever DIY (SI T-amp) and eager to start with Moto. I want to re-house and mod for use as a 5 ch stand alone amp.
I gathered from this thread that things to do are:
-replace input caps
-add two caps to the power board
-replace 15k resistor with 10k
Does anyone (pano, anonymous1, john) have detailed instructions/photos of what needs to be done here (I'm a newbie)?
Thanks in advance!
I just got my DCP501 in the mail for less than $50, shipping included. It's all banged up and the DVD drive won't read, but I bought it for the amp board only anyway. I just finished my first ever DIY (SI T-amp) and eager to start with Moto. I want to re-house and mod for use as a 5 ch stand alone amp.
I gathered from this thread that things to do are:
-replace input caps
-add two caps to the power board
-replace 15k resistor with 10k
Does anyone (pano, anonymous1, john) have detailed instructions/photos of what needs to be done here (I'm a newbie)?
Thanks in advance!
Search back for a couple Anonymous1 posts for the input caps and overload SMD resistors - he has pics and instructions...
$50 was a good deal. As log as the amps work...the rest of the unit is relatively useless to most of us...
$50 was a good deal. As log as the amps work...the rest of the unit is relatively useless to most of us...
The amp works! At least it did, before I took it out. I took the amp board, the power board, and the power supply. I don't think I'll be able to put it back together 🙂 but I don't want to.
I want to somehow hook up a pot and some binding posts and test this thing out, but I don't know where to start. Kinda frustrated at my lack of knowledge and experience, but I hope you guys can help me out.
I understand that Anon has done this, but I couldn't find details/diags. I assume pano has messed around with it too. I took some photos of the two boards and the power supply hooked up together and was wondering if you could help me identify the connections.
I want to somehow hook up a pot and some binding posts and test this thing out, but I don't know where to start. Kinda frustrated at my lack of knowledge and experience, but I hope you guys can help me out.
I understand that Anon has done this, but I couldn't find details/diags. I assume pano has messed around with it too. I took some photos of the two boards and the power supply hooked up together and was wondering if you could help me identify the connections.
Had a hard time posting photo. Let's try it again;
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Sorry it's been a while. Anon could you (or anyone else) post any pictures or diagrams to help me with hookups.
What I plan on doing is dropping the parts from my DCP501 into an HTPC I'm building. Embarrassing thing is I just graduated with my degree in EE (well mainly computer engineering.. so not too much circuitry).
I'd also like to see what the finished enclosures look like.
Thanks
I
What I plan on doing is dropping the parts from my DCP501 into an HTPC I'm building. Embarrassing thing is I just graduated with my degree in EE (well mainly computer engineering.. so not too much circuitry).
I'd also like to see what the finished enclosures look like.
Thanks
I
Start on post 71. This is where Anonymous1 details the overcurrent threshold fix - big problem with this amp is "rebooting" itself when under stress...add a couple SMD resistors on top of existing ones and that problem goes away. Just tape one new one (20k??) on top of existing one (15k??) and carefully solder one end at a time - its cake. I think there was two SMD's per channel, so six total
Also details the input caps mod - just replace with a good one. I replaced with a 2.2uF Bennic from Madisound.
Read through post 121 to see the connection details and a bunch of other stuff...
Also details the input caps mod - just replace with a good one. I replaced with a 2.2uF Bennic from Madisound.
Read through post 121 to see the connection details and a bunch of other stuff...
I'm not getting any sound through my speakers when I have them connected. When I use my multimeter, the terminal outputs to the speakers show a constant 2.541 V. Also, the red LED illuminates for the front channel.
I think that means overload? Thanks for any insight.
I think that means overload? Thanks for any insight.
The Amp board needs 5VDC to bring it out of "Sleep" state - Anonymous1 shows where on the main power board to get this 5VDC in a previous posting.
I do not know where/what this red LED is.
Sounds like you are getting DC offset on your output, which could be an entirely different problem all together. Did you do the Overload Mod/fix? Check your soldering around the SMD components to be sure you didn't create a short somewhere...
Sorry for not being any more helpful.
I do not know where/what this red LED is.
Sounds like you are getting DC offset on your output, which could be an entirely different problem all together. Did you do the Overload Mod/fix? Check your soldering around the SMD components to be sure you didn't create a short somewhere...
Sorry for not being any more helpful.
If one of the LED's remains lit and the other two are out, then there is something wrong. The 2.5v on the output is normal when in a muted state I believe.
I learned the hard way these boards are VERY touchy.
I learned the hard way these boards are VERY touchy.
I got all 3 LED's to turn off (I assume they turn on when their is a problem), some of the grounds were being finicky. I now get a loud hum on my junk speaker (I'm sure I'll blow it up soon).
I wired the protect, pmute, and spkr on wires to the 5 V from the power board as previously mentioned.
For the inputs, I wired all of the grounds together and attached them to the outter barrel of the RCA inputs that I ganked from the dcp501. The 5 R-in, L-in, Center-in etc.. were wired to the middle (signal part) of the RCA input.
These RCA inputs were connected to an el cheapo radio that I verified worked.
I will take a picture as soon as I get back to my apt at school. Any thoughts on good projects that I can use the torroid for if I can't get this working.
Thanks
I wired the protect, pmute, and spkr on wires to the 5 V from the power board as previously mentioned.
For the inputs, I wired all of the grounds together and attached them to the outter barrel of the RCA inputs that I ganked from the dcp501. The 5 R-in, L-in, Center-in etc.. were wired to the middle (signal part) of the RCA input.
These RCA inputs were connected to an el cheapo radio that I verified worked.
I will take a picture as soon as I get back to my apt at school. Any thoughts on good projects that I can use the torroid for if I can't get this working.
Thanks
You connected all the inputs in parallel? If I remember correctly, the board did not like any of the inputs connected together.
sum bia
Will try that next. I was following traces on the board and it became absurd, I thought I tracked them back to a single point (well why would they run 5 different grounds for such a short ground then? dang it).
Thanks for the help.
Will try that next. I was following traces on the board and it became absurd, I thought I tracked them back to a single point (well why would they run 5 different grounds for such a short ground then? dang it).
Thanks for the help.
Got it working! I believe that all of the inputs do have to be connected together and attached to ground. I saw an image previously with the shielding on the input cables wound together. This in effect traces everything to ground.
I have an extra HTPC laying around that this will be built into. It'll make for a very nice all in one system.
Thanks for the help.
I have an extra HTPC laying around that this will be built into. It'll make for a very nice all in one system.
Thanks for the help.
whoops.. I might have a 4 or 3 channel receiver now.. I think I let the magic smoke out of one of the mosfets or tripath chip (I saw the smoke, not sure if it came from bottom or top of board)....
Anyone know why pulling out the speaker wire while playing would cause it to burn up?
From now on I'll power it down before changing things.
EDIT:
smoke was let out... but it wasn't magic. It still works fine.
Anyone know why pulling out the speaker wire while playing would cause it to burn up?
From now on I'll power it down before changing things.
EDIT:
smoke was let out... but it wasn't magic. It still works fine.