Yawn, are we there yet?
It would be more interesting to know his selection process of selecting the chosen full range driver and the tradeoff offs of the other candidates if any. Rather than just starting from here's my driver now let's get busy.
Indeed, there are a whole number of design choices here, where the answers will be as interesting as the project.
It will also be interesting to see what kind of directions people take off in, given this as a starting point (Scott & i are already working on an ode)
dave
The thing I find appealing (as with all of his designs) is NOT that he's done something radically new, but that he used modern tools to do it correctly. There's a very nice attention to detail. Immaculate engineering, IMO, something of which there's far too little in the niche world of high end audio.
That would be interesting, but in fairness, he can't appeal to everyone / do everything. What has been presented (even if some of us have some quibbles with certain points) is a nice, well documented & simple to build project that would be a good starting point for people new to DIY speaker building. It's not particularly aimed at those who wouldn't bat an eyelid at something more exotic.
And is elegantly pretty (for a monkey coffin) -- as can be exemplified by Mr Eye Lady (SY) being forced into a set for the lounge.
SY, do your refrigerator sized woofers go up high enuff to meet these?
dave
I found the calcs and decision making to be of interest. I feel that it sums up some good design practices, is easy to build, and gives us a springboard for discussion and sure: some varients...
SY, do your refrigerator sized woofers go up high enuff to meet these?
dave
Sure, but they're already committed to the M3.3s. And I have been told in no uncertain terms that subs would be unacceptable, and I should be satisfied with a couple of cute little boxes like these. Too bad, because I have a spare pair of M3.3s whose woofer sections could be pressed into service...
Fortunately, I'm the one who pays the rent.😀
You'll just have to get creative with "hiding some woofers".
Need a new coffee table? Slap a nice wooden (or glass) spaced top on this and some legs...
dave
Need a new coffee table? Slap a nice wooden (or glass) spaced top on this and some legs...

dave
You'll just have to get creative with "hiding some woofers".
Need a new coffee table? Slap a nice wooden (or glass) spaced top on this and some legs...
![]()
dave
Interesting double isobarik. I like it.
Is this just a concept sketch, or can you provide the dimensions and identify the drivers?
Doug
Push-push-pushpull isobarik.
It is just a concept.
There are some assembly challenges. I haven't actually figured that out. For optimum driver coupling the central tunnel would need to be a removable object. Or you could slice it down the middle (verticaly) into 2 C-sections and then bolt those together. Either way you'd have to have the bottom removable.
And getting cables to it could be a challenge if actually a coffee table in the middle of the room (drilling a hole thru from the basement would limit placement).
Originally concieved for some vintage Foster 12" woofers that i have 20+ instances of. Net volume would need to be on the order of 1.5-2.5ft^3. For these woofers the box would be aperiodic.
dave
It is just a concept.
There are some assembly challenges. I haven't actually figured that out. For optimum driver coupling the central tunnel would need to be a removable object. Or you could slice it down the middle (verticaly) into 2 C-sections and then bolt those together. Either way you'd have to have the bottom removable.
And getting cables to it could be a challenge if actually a coffee table in the middle of the room (drilling a hole thru from the basement would limit placement).
Originally concieved for some vintage Foster 12" woofers that i have 20+ instances of. Net volume would need to be on the order of 1.5-2.5ft^3. For these woofers the box would be aperiodic.
dave
The thing I find appealing (as with all of his designs) is NOT that he's done something radically new, but that he used modern tools to do it correctly. There's a very nice attention to detail. Immaculate engineering, IMO, something of which there's far too little in the niche world of high end audio.
I second that. It's not 'just' a speaker project, it's also a great tutorial how to approach such a project, independent of the choices made.
Hat off.
jd
"The Edge"
No doubt a well engineered project! I'm still digesting all the fine detail. I'm not sure my ears are quite ready for a single full range project just yet though.
It seems the article has the wrong URL for the software "The Edge" on page 8. The correct URL should be;
http://www.tolvan.com/edge/
Chas
No doubt a well engineered project! I'm still digesting all the fine detail. I'm not sure my ears are quite ready for a single full range project just yet though.
It seems the article has the wrong URL for the software "The Edge" on page 8. The correct URL should be;
http://www.tolvan.com/edge/
Chas
It seems the article has the wrong URL for the software "The Edge" on page 8. The correct URL should be;
Home of the Edge
Corrected, thank you.
Hi,
Great project! Even Nelson Pass has once mentioned that he was fiddling with a small, sealed box-fullrange speaker, which, mated right with the subwoofer, should give bang-for-the-buck. I am not quoting literally, but that's approximately how I got it. So this project must just be it.
But...the perplexing part for me was the correct mating of the satellites with the subwoofer (whenever I tried this combination). I got to realize the fact that all of you know; one has to find the correct frequency, slope, delay...and here comes a problem...
In the Subwoofer section of the article, Morgan said: "Thus, the high-pass section needs a corresponding delay..."
So, I guess that one way to do this would be to use active crossovers (Behringer let's say), but what if one wants to stick to simplicity, and avoid as much electronic circuitry in the signal path as possible? How could we obtain a correct delay without having to resort to active filters in the high-pass section?
Regards,
Vix
Great project! Even Nelson Pass has once mentioned that he was fiddling with a small, sealed box-fullrange speaker, which, mated right with the subwoofer, should give bang-for-the-buck. I am not quoting literally, but that's approximately how I got it. So this project must just be it.
But...the perplexing part for me was the correct mating of the satellites with the subwoofer (whenever I tried this combination). I got to realize the fact that all of you know; one has to find the correct frequency, slope, delay...and here comes a problem...
In the Subwoofer section of the article, Morgan said: "Thus, the high-pass section needs a corresponding delay..."
So, I guess that one way to do this would be to use active crossovers (Behringer let's say), but what if one wants to stick to simplicity, and avoid as much electronic circuitry in the signal path as possible? How could we obtain a correct delay without having to resort to active filters in the high-pass section?
Regards,
Vix
If the delay wasn't too large, one could move the woofers forward of the satelittes. Then the high pass would be delayed by the distance.
Night well not be the optimal place for the woofers thou as far as loading the room goes.
dave
Night well not be the optimal place for the woofers thou as far as loading the room goes.
dave
Great project! Even Nelson Pass has once mentioned that he was fiddling with a small, sealed box-fullrange speaker, which, mated right with the subwoofer, should give bang-for-the-buck. I am not quoting literally, but that's approximately how I got it. So this project must just be it.
I was not involved in this project, but I do endorse the concept.
😎
Cats, cats, more cats???
Thanks for sharing this project. Nicely presented project that really gets into the details of the design process.
Gary
Thanks for sharing this project. Nicely presented project that really gets into the details of the design process.
Gary
As one of those who would be considered a neophyte in building, though I have read a good bit, I liked the fact that Mr. Jones did a good job of explaining baffle step, and such, in a clear manner. I also like his discussion of cabinet damping. On that line, does anyone here have copies of the three JAES articles that Mr. Jones mentioned as references? I would like to read them and see what else I can learn.
Peace,
Dave
Peace,
Dave
The 1st 2 are probably on the net, the last you may have to buy from the AES.
The 1st edition of the AES loudspeaker anthology has, i believe, the 1st 2 and is just loaded with other good stuff.
The figure i posted earlier in the thread is a good summary of the 3rd paper. I may actually have scanned that from an article in the above anthology (but IIRC it is from an article that also references Tapin)
dave
The 1st edition of the AES loudspeaker anthology has, i believe, the 1st 2 and is just loaded with other good stuff.
The figure i posted earlier in the thread is a good summary of the 3rd paper. I may actually have scanned that from an article in the above anthology (but IIRC it is from an article that also references Tapin)
dave
Love the cat avatar, Vix.
Thanks! That's my cat (one of them). I made a photo from a balcony while he was on top of the garage. What amazes me is cat's hearing ability. It was sufficient that I just make the faintest whistle, he instantly turned his head up and looked straight at my camera. 😎
Sorry for OT!...
- Status
- Not open for further replies.
- Home
- Loudspeakers
- Full Range
- Morgan Jones "Arpeggio" Loudspeaker