I'd recommend potassium alum. Works very well as a styptic an doesn't make stains - in very contrast to silver nitrate, which is a styptic and an antiseptic as well.
Best regards!
Yikes, that sounds painful! I hope the cut isn't too deep. Make sure to clean it well and keep it covered to avoid any infections. Accidents like that can happen to the best of us, especially when dealing with equipment. Take care and heal up soon!
About 5532 ic, i found a view like JRC5532D, JRC5532DD , NE5532P
JRC-DD is more pricey and NE is cheapest. If im not wrong DD is newer than D?
I remember that when im searching to replace QE01 and QE02 can not find JRC4558D, so i bought 4558DD.
Its time to buy center tap and stepped drill bit! Yay! Long before i plan to buy them, but i think i did not use them.
After thinking it 2-3 days, so i decided to make the hole. On the way guys... I think it takes 4-5 days 🤔
JRC is New Japan Radio while NE5532 historically were originally from Signetics (late 70's). If you could actually get the original Signetics/Philips parts (you can't) then they would be the ones to go for.
Don't get hung up over different designations, the important thing is to make sure you get the right package outline (I assume 8 pin DIP). There is absolutely no point replacing any of these with similar such as 4558D to 4558DD.
Don't get hung up over different designations, the important thing is to make sure you get the right package outline (I assume 8 pin DIP). There is absolutely no point replacing any of these with similar such as 4558D to 4558DD.
The TI ones are the ones with good performance today.
About the holes: please use the tool (forgot the English word) to have an exact straight line and check the RCA connectors you bought beforehand how much mm they need inbetween them. Too much looks weird but too close and you can not use thick RCA connectors. Probably 4 extra mm are needed compared to the original ones if you buy fancy gold plated ones with insulation rings. You can determine the right distance when "dry testing" with just the insulation rings together and your RCA plugs on a table. Measure the distance between middle points.
Put a mark with a felt pen on the step with the right diameter. Let the drill do the work and just pay attention on exactly the right spot. Take the time and let the drill cool off in between and after cooling check if the plastic insulations ring fit in the hole (the smallest ring) as too small is a smile and too large is bad for your temper. Deburr when necessary and clean. A little bit of black paint helps against corrosion.
* since you already replaced the 4558 for new 4558 (why?) and will solder a socket and then a final opamp the chance is pretty high that PCB tracks peel off. Five times soldering is too much for Pertinax. I would now suggest to leave the opamp where it is.
About the holes: please use the tool (forgot the English word) to have an exact straight line and check the RCA connectors you bought beforehand how much mm they need inbetween them. Too much looks weird but too close and you can not use thick RCA connectors. Probably 4 extra mm are needed compared to the original ones if you buy fancy gold plated ones with insulation rings. You can determine the right distance when "dry testing" with just the insulation rings together and your RCA plugs on a table. Measure the distance between middle points.
Put a mark with a felt pen on the step with the right diameter. Let the drill do the work and just pay attention on exactly the right spot. Take the time and let the drill cool off in between and after cooling check if the plastic insulations ring fit in the hole (the smallest ring) as too small is a smile and too large is bad for your temper. Deburr when necessary and clean. A little bit of black paint helps against corrosion.
* since you already replaced the 4558 for new 4558 (why?) and will solder a socket and then a final opamp the chance is pretty high that PCB tracks peel off. Five times soldering is too much for Pertinax. I would now suggest to leave the opamp where it is.
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...and, needless to say, always use high quality tools. Buy a step drill like this one.
This really isn't a cheap one, but you won't regret it. This drill reliably prevents from ridges at the inside and presents remarkable longevity. There's even a three drill assortment by the same manufacturer. Hopefully you will find adequate tools in your country.
Best regards!
This really isn't a cheap one, but you won't regret it. This drill reliably prevents from ridges at the inside and presents remarkable longevity. There's even a three drill assortment by the same manufacturer. Hopefully you will find adequate tools in your country.
Best regards!
@Mooly @jean-paul the owner or the tech guy maybe from the previous owner was doing something strange, put an ic QE01 and QE02 and modify resistor and film caps around the ic, then paint it purple to cover the ic number/model. That is why i replaced with the closest based on service manual and other photos on the web.
Here it was:
There is another one missing that same as the far right bottom in the picture that has marking 104M i threw it.
I forget to take picture before replacing them.
The area they modified (red circle)
what i remember is i must find CE03 and CE04 (both same 180pF) to replace that greeny strange stacking films.
Here it was:
There is another one missing that same as the far right bottom in the picture that has marking 104M i threw it.
I forget to take picture before replacing them.
The area they modified (red circle)
what i remember is i must find CE03 and CE04 (both same 180pF) to replace that greeny strange stacking films.
@jean-paul Sorry, but to redraw for what? I mean that previous post the reply of why i replace 4558D to 4558DD in you and @Mooly question. It was done as i follow the manual and replace what is not matching.
QE01 is configured as a simple gain stage with a voltage gain of 4.9. That is determined by the 3k9 and 1k resistors. The 180pF cap rolls the gain off at high frequencies (past 100kHz) and so plays no part audibly as such. If those values have been altered the gain has been altered.
If you are swapping these opamps just put the sockets in and try a TL072 which is a FET device and (imo) sounds really really good. Forget what you read and what everyone says, just try it 🙂 Also you can try an NE/SE/TI/JRC/NJM or whatever 5532. Others are the OPA2134 (FET) and LM4562 which is the successor to the 5532.
Try them, listen to them for long enough to make a fair decision and trust what you hear.
If you are swapping these opamps just put the sockets in and try a TL072 which is a FET device and (imo) sounds really really good. Forget what you read and what everyone says, just try it 🙂 Also you can try an NE/SE/TI/JRC/NJM or whatever 5532. Others are the OPA2134 (FET) and LM4562 which is the successor to the 5532.
Try them, listen to them for long enough to make a fair decision and trust what you hear.
TL072 sounds and measures bad. Replaced them already in 1985. Of course I redid tests many years later. Still the same, lousy opamps compared to what is available. The OPA2134 is clearly superior but NE5532 also is and it costs nil to nothing. Almost all studio equipment is equipped with armies of NE5532.
LM4562 is a tricky one. Years ago I had many developing popcorn noise so I don't use them anymore. Once bitten twice shy. Like what tantalum caps do to other people 🙂
LM4562 is a tricky one. Years ago I had many developing popcorn noise so I don't use them anymore. Once bitten twice shy. Like what tantalum caps do to other people 🙂
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I have to disagree on that Jean Paul but I'm not going to force any opinions 🙂 besides saying to listen over a long enough period of time and give it a fair go. Listen for a day or two to each. Its no good fitting one, listening for a couple of minutes and trying another. Your expectations cloud things. Listen, make notes if you want and keep coming back to the one you feel you prefer.
That is right. They all need some time.
But I think we are overdebating audiophile properties as the device itself is not audiophile at all. Throw in a NE5532 for QE01 and be done with it.
Many a newly built device with just relay based source selection and volume control with a simple buffer outperforms that old Marantz.
But I think we are overdebating audiophile properties as the device itself is not audiophile at all. Throw in a NE5532 for QE01 and be done with it.
Many a newly built device with just relay based source selection and volume control with a simple buffer outperforms that old Marantz.
The 2068 is an interesting one, similar to the 5532 in many ways. The 4560 has a much higher than usual output current capability (not needed here) and is often used to drive headphones. The 4580 is good in that regard too. Try them all and see what you think.
One thing to mention... always always buy from reputable suppliers as there are so many fakes around from the usual suspect outlets 😉
One thing to mention... always always buy from reputable suppliers as there are so many fakes around from the usual suspect outlets 😉
Yeah hahah i found a joke somewhere in internet that the difference between audiophile and ordinary people is :
Ordinary: use audio device to hear music
Audiophile: use music to hear audio device.
😆