Hi all. Im planning to undertake the modification of a Marantz CD6000 CD player, as per a number of threads on this site.
I am fortunate enough to own both the CD6000OSE Limited Edition, and CD6000KI versions of the player.
At this stage, I plan to upgrade the KI, hoping to achieve a best possible result with this player, and use the OSE a a reference.
To start with, I thought I would see what the differences are, and post them, both for general interest, and because I want help! 😉
The functions listed () are assumed! Im only learning!
General:
Transformer replaced with toroidal model
Chassis copper plated
Components:
Part OSE Part KI Part
(12v PSU Reservoir caps)
2131 1000u 35V Elna for Hi-Fi 2200u 35V Elna Silmic
2132 1000u 35V Elna for Hi-Fi 2200u 35V Elna Silmic
(12v post reg smoothing caps)
2115 470u 16V Elna Std (RA2) 220u 16V Elna Silmic
2116 470u 16V Elna Std (RA2) 220u 16V Elna Silmic
(12v bypass caps for output HDAM)
2223 470u 16V Elna Std (RA2) 100u 16V Elna Cerafine
2224 470u 16V Elna Std (RA2) 100u 16V Elna Cerafine
2225 470u 16V Elna Std (RA2) 100u 16V Elna Cerafine
2226 470u 16V Elna Std (RA2) 100u 16V Elna Cerafine
(5v DAC bypass caps)
2311 470u 16V Elna Std (RA2) 470u 16V Elna Silmic
2312 470u 16V Elna Std (RA2) 470u 16V Elna Silmic
2316 470u 16V Elna Std (RA2) 470u 16V Elna Silmic
2317 470u 16V Elna Std (RA2) 470u 16V Elna Silmic
(I/V filter caps?????!!!)
2211, 2212, 2715, 2716, 2717, 2718, 2719, 2720, 2721, 2722, 2723, 2724, 2725, 2726 - and 2213, 2214, 2217, 2218
These are blue and marked "101J 100" in the OSE.
In the KI they are green, smaller, and marked "Audio 101J N" in the KI.
Can anyone assist identifying what type of capacitors these are??
I will attempt to post photos.
Cheers
I am fortunate enough to own both the CD6000OSE Limited Edition, and CD6000KI versions of the player.
At this stage, I plan to upgrade the KI, hoping to achieve a best possible result with this player, and use the OSE a a reference.
To start with, I thought I would see what the differences are, and post them, both for general interest, and because I want help! 😉
The functions listed () are assumed! Im only learning!
General:
Transformer replaced with toroidal model
Chassis copper plated
Components:
Part OSE Part KI Part
(12v PSU Reservoir caps)
2131 1000u 35V Elna for Hi-Fi 2200u 35V Elna Silmic
2132 1000u 35V Elna for Hi-Fi 2200u 35V Elna Silmic
(12v post reg smoothing caps)
2115 470u 16V Elna Std (RA2) 220u 16V Elna Silmic
2116 470u 16V Elna Std (RA2) 220u 16V Elna Silmic
(12v bypass caps for output HDAM)
2223 470u 16V Elna Std (RA2) 100u 16V Elna Cerafine
2224 470u 16V Elna Std (RA2) 100u 16V Elna Cerafine
2225 470u 16V Elna Std (RA2) 100u 16V Elna Cerafine
2226 470u 16V Elna Std (RA2) 100u 16V Elna Cerafine
(5v DAC bypass caps)
2311 470u 16V Elna Std (RA2) 470u 16V Elna Silmic
2312 470u 16V Elna Std (RA2) 470u 16V Elna Silmic
2316 470u 16V Elna Std (RA2) 470u 16V Elna Silmic
2317 470u 16V Elna Std (RA2) 470u 16V Elna Silmic
(I/V filter caps?????!!!)
2211, 2212, 2715, 2716, 2717, 2718, 2719, 2720, 2721, 2722, 2723, 2724, 2725, 2726 - and 2213, 2214, 2217, 2218
These are blue and marked "101J 100" in the OSE.
In the KI they are green, smaller, and marked "Audio 101J N" in the KI.
Can anyone assist identifying what type of capacitors these are??
I will attempt to post photos.
Cheers
Attached is a photo of the capacitors in the KI player.
Can anyone please assist with indentifying the difference in types??
Cheers!
🙂
Replacing these with Silver Mica types appears to be popular, although there seems to be some conflicts in opinion. I'll see what I can source, and make my own judgement 😉
Can anyone please assist with indentifying the difference in types??
Cheers!
🙂
Replacing these with Silver Mica types appears to be popular, although there seems to be some conflicts in opinion. I'll see what I can source, and make my own judgement 😉
Attachments
Not really my business, but why not modify the OSE instead and use the KIS as a reference?
Cheers,
T
Cheers,
T
Hi, the following are a list of the key modifications I plan to make. These are not necessarily in order. I don't plan to do them all at once, but neither do I plan to do them individually!....as I don't want to pull the player apart so many times! 😉
Also....I'm not sure I could hear the differences between all individual changes, but I'm confident that they will all collectivelly contribute towards a noticeable change. (I hope!!!!!!)
Remove muting transistors
Remove output capacitors (currently Elna Silmics)
Replace PSU diodes with schottky types
Bypass DAC according to Guido Tent's excellent "Supply Decoupling" paper.
Copper shield key chips.
Replace IV discreate opamp stage (Marantz HDAM) with AD8620
- Built on Brown Dog adapters and bypassed locally.
- Compare with AD8066 built in same manner
Possibly replace filter caps with Silver Mica...
Replace capacitors in DAC, IV, and Analogue stages with BG
- FK type for IV and Analogue due to size/value contraints
- N or NX type for DAC
Build & install multiple ALW Super Regulators
- both +/-12 V for Analogue and IV stages (two)
- +5v DAC
- Depending on clock, another +5v for clock
Improve clock
- Still yet to decided exactly what to do.
Test bypassing BG's with ceramics (at request of another diyaudio member)
Also....I'm not sure I could hear the differences between all individual changes, but I'm confident that they will all collectivelly contribute towards a noticeable change. (I hope!!!!!!)
Remove muting transistors
Remove output capacitors (currently Elna Silmics)
Replace PSU diodes with schottky types
Bypass DAC according to Guido Tent's excellent "Supply Decoupling" paper.
Copper shield key chips.
Replace IV discreate opamp stage (Marantz HDAM) with AD8620
- Built on Brown Dog adapters and bypassed locally.
- Compare with AD8066 built in same manner
Possibly replace filter caps with Silver Mica...
Replace capacitors in DAC, IV, and Analogue stages with BG
- FK type for IV and Analogue due to size/value contraints
- N or NX type for DAC
Build & install multiple ALW Super Regulators
- both +/-12 V for Analogue and IV stages (two)
- +5v DAC
- Depending on clock, another +5v for clock
Improve clock
- Still yet to decided exactly what to do.
Test bypassing BG's with ceramics (at request of another diyaudio member)
Zombie said:
Hi T!, Thanks. Hmmmm...yeah...I've wondered that myself! 😀
It would make more sense in some regards - as the KIS is a bit collectible - and modding it would waste some good parts, but my thinking is that I only want to keep one of them, and using the KIS as the basis would give the benefits that the copper chassis and torodial transformer provide.
A number of people on this forum have asked if they could mod their OSEs to get better performance than the KIS. Looking at the differences I would say - absolutely!!
Incidently - I haven't yet spent much time listening to both the units and comparing them, as I only recently aquired the KIS. After 48 warming it up, I thought it did sound a little more detailed than the OSE. I'll compare them more before starting the mods. (Just back from Snowboarding with broken ribs, so that will give me some much needed listening time!! ha ha!)
Cheers
You have to turn the bass down then, can't have your ribs hurting with every beat...
Anyway, I don't have the service manual for the 6000, but on my 63 the following worked fine:
- close matching of the 10k and 27k resistors before the first opamp after the DAC.
- if it is applicable, do the clock mod as described on http://www.acoustica.org.uk/
Hard to hear much difference when I put in a LCClock later...
- put the output caps as filter caps for the HDAM
- fill the damn thing with huge amounts of bitumen
good luck
tom
Anyway, I don't have the service manual for the 6000, but on my 63 the following worked fine:
- close matching of the 10k and 27k resistors before the first opamp after the DAC.
- if it is applicable, do the clock mod as described on http://www.acoustica.org.uk/
Hard to hear much difference when I put in a LCClock later...
- put the output caps as filter caps for the HDAM
- fill the damn thing with huge amounts of bitumen
good luck
tom
Zombie said:
Ha ha! Stop it!
The laughing is killing me! 😀
Excellent thanks. I've got the 63 manual, so I will find my equivilent resistors. Neither the KIS or OSE appears to have (virtually) any resisitors, so I wonder if they are on the backside of the board? I'll find out and let people know.
Thanks for the clock mod recommendation. Very interesting! Especially considering you didn't hear much difference with an LCClock. I'm considering clock options....
How much bitumen? Get the local road engineers to fill it to the top, or just to below the transport level? 😀
Here is a question.......
I was looking at damping products...BlueTak, Brown bread etc etc... and found Dynamat:
http://www.dynamat.com/spec_dynamat_xtreme.htm
http://www.dynamat.com/sound_dbate_Xtreme_comparison.htm
This looks quite good. As you can see, it has an aluminium layer. If this was used, should the alumium layer(s) be electically bonded to the rest of the (copper plated) chassis, or is there no point???
Any thoughts?
Buy bitumen sheets, cost about $10 each...15"x20", one is enough
cut into appropriate sizes and put under the lid, on the sides, under that circuit board, on the transport - and bluetac in the transport, not too much bluetac though...
t.
cut into appropriate sizes and put under the lid, on the sides, under that circuit board, on the transport - and bluetac in the transport, not too much bluetac though...
t.
Hi,
I was going to post yesterday but didnt have time. I was going to say what has already been said - it would make far more sense to mod the OSE beyond the KI - it gives a benchmark to aim for, and also if you screw up the damage is less.
I have had good milage from copper shielding of chips that give out lots of RFI - the large microcontroller is a goodun for this.
A better clock is a must really. And a good powersupply for it.
Replace the output caps with Blackgate non polarised types.
As mentioned use some ALW super regs. (anyone know how much Andy want for one of these puppys?) Also consider another transformer for the output stage - perhaps offboard.
Better decoupling - using Mr Tents fine article, again as mentioned
many way to acheive this some more fiddly than others. Blackgate nx hi-q are good.
Pretty much most of what is mentioned come to think of it. Not sure what those caps are - mylar filter caps? And higher grade polyproplylene in the KI? Or somesuch. probably completely wrong!
Good luck with it.
I was going to post yesterday but didnt have time. I was going to say what has already been said - it would make far more sense to mod the OSE beyond the KI - it gives a benchmark to aim for, and also if you screw up the damage is less.
I have had good milage from copper shielding of chips that give out lots of RFI - the large microcontroller is a goodun for this.
A better clock is a must really. And a good powersupply for it.
Replace the output caps with Blackgate non polarised types.
As mentioned use some ALW super regs. (anyone know how much Andy want for one of these puppys?) Also consider another transformer for the output stage - perhaps offboard.
Better decoupling - using Mr Tents fine article, again as mentioned
many way to acheive this some more fiddly than others. Blackgate nx hi-q are good.
Pretty much most of what is mentioned come to think of it. Not sure what those caps are - mylar filter caps? And higher grade polyproplylene in the KI? Or somesuch. probably completely wrong!
Good luck with it.
Hi,
Well after a few days of indecision I opened up the KI today…I hope I don’t regret that decision! Please – no “I told you so”s if I kill it!!! 😉
Immediately before hand I compared both players. I do feel the KI had a little better definition in the highs, although they sound very very similar playing through the rest of my kit (not high end – Marantz PM7200 AMP in Class A mode, and Dynaudio Audience 52 SE speakers). Tests were not blind...
So far I have removed the output capacitors. There were two in series per channel. I have replaced these with a wire link per pair.
2219 220u 16v Elna Silmic
2220 220u 16v Elna Silmic
2221 220u 16v Elna Silmic
2222 220u 16v Elna Silmic
I also removed the muting transistors 7227, 7228, 7229 and 7230.
Upon reassembling, I measured the DC offset using a DMM. Left = -0.190v, Right = 0.068v. These figures don’t impress me (I'm assuming they are bad....Im a newbie!!!), so ill keep an eye on them when I make some of the other mods, and see if I can improve them.
I’ve played a few CDs through it, and I do think it’s made a difference. Definition and detail has improved a little, and maybe a bit more "air". I’ll try some of my favourite music this week with a second copy in the OSE, and try switching sources on the Amp and try and get some more objective observations.
Cheers for the damping advice. Although it’s a low cost and simple mod, ill keep it to the end, as I’m not sure where and how I’m going to mount some of the additional planned hardware. Once the electrics are complete, ill damp it!
Excellent thanks. Ive purchased some copper tape for shielding so will do that soon.
Yes, appears the clock is very weak in this player, so I might start looking at the http://www.acoustica.org.uk/ mod that Zombie pointed out. Was considering a commercial unit, but will try this first, as its CHEAP!!! Will probably dedicate a power supply.
Andy's ALW Super regs were a group buy here: http://www.diyaudio.com/wiki/index.php?page=ALW+regulator+pcb+group+buy
And thanks, I've got my hands on a few BG NX Hi-Qs to try..!
I'll have a good listen to the two players this week before moving onwards!
Cheers for the advice everyone!😀
Well after a few days of indecision I opened up the KI today…I hope I don’t regret that decision! Please – no “I told you so”s if I kill it!!! 😉
Immediately before hand I compared both players. I do feel the KI had a little better definition in the highs, although they sound very very similar playing through the rest of my kit (not high end – Marantz PM7200 AMP in Class A mode, and Dynaudio Audience 52 SE speakers). Tests were not blind...
So far I have removed the output capacitors. There were two in series per channel. I have replaced these with a wire link per pair.
2219 220u 16v Elna Silmic
2220 220u 16v Elna Silmic
2221 220u 16v Elna Silmic
2222 220u 16v Elna Silmic
I also removed the muting transistors 7227, 7228, 7229 and 7230.
Upon reassembling, I measured the DC offset using a DMM. Left = -0.190v, Right = 0.068v. These figures don’t impress me (I'm assuming they are bad....Im a newbie!!!), so ill keep an eye on them when I make some of the other mods, and see if I can improve them.
I’ve played a few CDs through it, and I do think it’s made a difference. Definition and detail has improved a little, and maybe a bit more "air". I’ll try some of my favourite music this week with a second copy in the OSE, and try switching sources on the Amp and try and get some more objective observations.
Zombie said:
Cheers for the damping advice. Although it’s a low cost and simple mod, ill keep it to the end, as I’m not sure where and how I’m going to mount some of the additional planned hardware. Once the electrics are complete, ill damp it!
Rotellian said:
Excellent thanks. Ive purchased some copper tape for shielding so will do that soon.
Yes, appears the clock is very weak in this player, so I might start looking at the http://www.acoustica.org.uk/ mod that Zombie pointed out. Was considering a commercial unit, but will try this first, as its CHEAP!!! Will probably dedicate a power supply.
Andy's ALW Super regs were a group buy here: http://www.diyaudio.com/wiki/index.php?page=ALW+regulator+pcb+group+buy
And thanks, I've got my hands on a few BG NX Hi-Qs to try..!
I'll have a good listen to the two players this week before moving onwards!
Cheers for the advice everyone!😀
Hello!
You can easily fit a lot of bitumen inside the lid, under the circuit board and on the sides inside.
I think you Dc offset is really large. It might be less if you change the opamps or match the 10 and 27k resistors around the first opamp. Don't remove or bypass the output caps before you've got the DC out under control. If you have a cap on the input of your preamp, then it might be allright, but just in case...
I have a dedicated power supply under the stabilising rod and I glued the LCClock on the main circuit board with super glue. Fixed it with bluetac to some caps nearby...
There's a lot of room to the right side, too.
Good luck!
You can easily fit a lot of bitumen inside the lid, under the circuit board and on the sides inside.
I think you Dc offset is really large. It might be less if you change the opamps or match the 10 and 27k resistors around the first opamp. Don't remove or bypass the output caps before you've got the DC out under control. If you have a cap on the input of your preamp, then it might be allright, but just in case...
I have a dedicated power supply under the stabilising rod and I glued the LCClock on the main circuit board with super glue. Fixed it with bluetac to some caps nearby...
There's a lot of room to the right side, too.
Good luck!
An update
Hi! Apologies for providing no update for some time.
I can't believe how time has flown!
I have made the following changes, and have given it many hours playing for burn in:
STAGE 1
- Removed the output capacitors (2219, 2220, 2221, 2222) and replaced with a wire link per pair.
- Removed the muting transistors 7227, 7228, 7229 and 7230.
STAGE 2
- Replaced all 1N4003 diodes with 11DQ10 Schottky Diodes (6111-6120, and 6123, 6125 ...because I had enough)
- Replaced all electrolytics in 12v IV(?) and analogue stages. (2223, 2224, 2225, 2226, 2711, 2712, 2713, 2714) with Black Gate BG-FK – 16V/100µF
- Replaced electrolytics after 12v regs (2115, 2116) with Black Gate BG-FK – 16V/100µF
STAGE 3
- Replaced all electrolytics in 5v around DAC (2311, 2312, 2316, 2317, 2323, 2324) as well as (2120, 2327) with Black Gate BG-NX – 6.3V/220µF
- Shielded SM5872B DAC chips with copper foil and grounded with flying lead. Then bypassed locally with Black Gate NX Hi-Q 50V .10uF caps, soldered directly onto the pins (between 15/16, 17/19, 19/22, 24/26, and 2/27). This was a VERY VERY fiddly job! Twice! (there is two). Ill endevour to remember to take some photos when I next have the board out. At the same time I removed the 47n SMD ceramics (2319, 2320, 2321, 2322)
- Removed the first HDAM stage, installed DIL sockets, and installed AD8620 opamps on Brown Dog adapters.
I have a standard CD6000OSE on another input to my Amp. I’ve copied one of my favourite CDs twice, and synchronously play a copy in each player.
Ok – so how does it sound? – Definitely an improvement that is noticeable. I did this in three stages. After Stage 1 I believed I could hear a subtle difference. Stage 2 didn’t bring large differences, maybe just a little more. After Stage 3 I can switch between sources, and notice the difference. It is still subtle, but it's there and repeatably noticeable.
Some tracks show the differences more than others, but in general it sounds more involving and lively. Sometimes it sounds brighter or louder, but always just a bit more detailed and airy. The bass is tighter and more controlled. A few tracks do sound a touch warmer, but this is not a predominate characteristic.
I’m happy with the changes, and that’s the main thing! 😀
So, whats left???
Ive purchased polystyrene caps for the IV stage. I decided against the Silver Micas.
Ive also purchased ALW Super Regulator PCBs through the group buy. I plan to install:
- one each for +/-12 V for Analogue and IV stages
- one for +5v DAC(s) analogue stage supply
- one for +5v DAC(s) digital stage supply
- Depending on clock, another +5v for clock
I expect these to make more of a difference than the changes to date. Ill hopefully build and fit these soon!
I also have some AD8066 mounted on Brown Dog adapters, so I'll wait for a rainy day (it IS the UK so even though its summer it cant be long!) and try swapping them for the AD8620s.
After that - a shielded mains cable, filtered IEC socket, and dampening....and...
Hi! Apologies for providing no update for some time.
I can't believe how time has flown!
I have made the following changes, and have given it many hours playing for burn in:
STAGE 1
- Removed the output capacitors (2219, 2220, 2221, 2222) and replaced with a wire link per pair.
- Removed the muting transistors 7227, 7228, 7229 and 7230.
STAGE 2
- Replaced all 1N4003 diodes with 11DQ10 Schottky Diodes (6111-6120, and 6123, 6125 ...because I had enough)
- Replaced all electrolytics in 12v IV(?) and analogue stages. (2223, 2224, 2225, 2226, 2711, 2712, 2713, 2714) with Black Gate BG-FK – 16V/100µF
- Replaced electrolytics after 12v regs (2115, 2116) with Black Gate BG-FK – 16V/100µF
STAGE 3
- Replaced all electrolytics in 5v around DAC (2311, 2312, 2316, 2317, 2323, 2324) as well as (2120, 2327) with Black Gate BG-NX – 6.3V/220µF
- Shielded SM5872B DAC chips with copper foil and grounded with flying lead. Then bypassed locally with Black Gate NX Hi-Q 50V .10uF caps, soldered directly onto the pins (between 15/16, 17/19, 19/22, 24/26, and 2/27). This was a VERY VERY fiddly job! Twice! (there is two). Ill endevour to remember to take some photos when I next have the board out. At the same time I removed the 47n SMD ceramics (2319, 2320, 2321, 2322)
- Removed the first HDAM stage, installed DIL sockets, and installed AD8620 opamps on Brown Dog adapters.
I have a standard CD6000OSE on another input to my Amp. I’ve copied one of my favourite CDs twice, and synchronously play a copy in each player.
Ok – so how does it sound? – Definitely an improvement that is noticeable. I did this in three stages. After Stage 1 I believed I could hear a subtle difference. Stage 2 didn’t bring large differences, maybe just a little more. After Stage 3 I can switch between sources, and notice the difference. It is still subtle, but it's there and repeatably noticeable.
Some tracks show the differences more than others, but in general it sounds more involving and lively. Sometimes it sounds brighter or louder, but always just a bit more detailed and airy. The bass is tighter and more controlled. A few tracks do sound a touch warmer, but this is not a predominate characteristic.
I’m happy with the changes, and that’s the main thing! 😀
So, whats left???
Ive purchased polystyrene caps for the IV stage. I decided against the Silver Micas.
Ive also purchased ALW Super Regulator PCBs through the group buy. I plan to install:
- one each for +/-12 V for Analogue and IV stages
- one for +5v DAC(s) analogue stage supply
- one for +5v DAC(s) digital stage supply
- Depending on clock, another +5v for clock
I expect these to make more of a difference than the changes to date. Ill hopefully build and fit these soon!
I also have some AD8066 mounted on Brown Dog adapters, so I'll wait for a rainy day (it IS the UK so even though its summer it cant be long!) and try swapping them for the AD8620s.
After that - a shielded mains cable, filtered IEC socket, and dampening....and...
Hey bs,
The clock in CD6000 is different and the mods that applied for CD67 and CD63 don't apply here.
This player has two DAC chips (twice the type used in CD63 and 67) and so they use an additional processing chip which also is responsible of creating a clock signal - bad idea...
In my opinion the best solution would be to use a better clock with multiple outputs (like Guido Tents XO2 and XO3 with additional outs) and then feed each both DAC's pin 28 with this signal + 7315 processing chips pin 36. Take out the old crystal + C2329, C2930, R3326, R3325. Also cut the traces going into DAC pin28 so you dont feed the signal to wrong places.
Ergo
The clock in CD6000 is different and the mods that applied for CD67 and CD63 don't apply here.
This player has two DAC chips (twice the type used in CD63 and 67) and so they use an additional processing chip which also is responsible of creating a clock signal - bad idea...
In my opinion the best solution would be to use a better clock with multiple outputs (like Guido Tents XO2 and XO3 with additional outs) and then feed each both DAC's pin 28 with this signal + 7315 processing chips pin 36. Take out the old crystal + C2329, C2930, R3326, R3325. Also cut the traces going into DAC pin28 so you dont feed the signal to wrong places.
Ergo
Oh my, I just traced the clock signal PCB traces from the processing chip to each DAC - AWFUL. They run something like 5-6cm each around and between other traces.... You have to cut them from DAC and processing chip side and replace them with forementioned solution. If you keep the traces even from one end they still end up creating additional RFI inside the player. Thats not good.
Ergo
Ergo
Hi Ergo, I didn’t realise that the CD6000 clock is implemented so differently, and so horribly! I did read somewhere that it’s very jittery though! I’ll check out the circuit in the service manual and make appropriate plans. MANY thanks for your advice! 🙂
Hi All,
Late to the party - again 🙄
I'm not familiar with the CD6000, thanks for those who have posted on the differences from the CD63. Despite the fact my 'acoustica' page is >3 years old it still provokes quite a lot of mail!
BS - If you're ever due in Bath, drop me an email, I'd like be interested in this CD6000 of yours
Martin
www.acoustica.org.uk
Late to the party - again 🙄
I'm not familiar with the CD6000, thanks for those who have posted on the differences from the CD63. Despite the fact my 'acoustica' page is >3 years old it still provokes quite a lot of mail!
BS - If you're ever due in Bath, drop me an email, I'd like be interested in this CD6000 of yours
Martin
www.acoustica.org.uk
BS I figured that you may interested in the differences that I have found between mine and yours.
Components:
your KI Part--- my KI part
(12v PSU Reservoir caps)
2200u 35V Elna Silmic--- 3300uf nichicon fine gold
(12v post reg smoothing caps)
220u 16V Elna Silmic--- 470uf Silmic
(12v bypass caps for output HDAM)
100u 16V Elna Cerafine--- 220uf Silmic (maybe they could not source the cerafine any longer)
(5v DAC bypass caps)
470u 16V Elna Silmic--- Same
Turning the board over does not give an indication regarding if the alternative parts in mine are original or not as all the caps have either had there legs preformed (S shape bend to hold them firm whilst flowsoldering) or the legs bent over the pcb underside (like a radial insersion machine has preformed the insertion and crop).
What I find baffling is that the pcb area around the 12v pre reg caps (nichicon fine gold in mine) has the left over glue marks for the 1000uf Elna “for hi fi” that is found in the ose and the 2200uf Elna Slimic, (two rings of glue)
I also recently picked up an ose very good price, from a well known online auction with a dead laser (yes folks it is the laser where can I get one in the UK for reasonable money?? I have found the vam1202 in Germany for E26.01).
The ose will be used as a replacement for the ki while I modify it.
RE: (I/V filter caps?????!!!)
These are blue and marked "101J 100" in the OSE.
In the KI they are green, smaller, and marked "Audio 101J N" in the KI.
They are the green ones in both of mine. Two possibilities:
1. They ran short of the blue ones when they built my ose and substituted with stock of green ones.
2. both blue and green are of a similar specification and they use whatever they can get (duel sourcing).
Components:
your KI Part--- my KI part
(12v PSU Reservoir caps)
2200u 35V Elna Silmic--- 3300uf nichicon fine gold
(12v post reg smoothing caps)
220u 16V Elna Silmic--- 470uf Silmic
(12v bypass caps for output HDAM)
100u 16V Elna Cerafine--- 220uf Silmic (maybe they could not source the cerafine any longer)
(5v DAC bypass caps)
470u 16V Elna Silmic--- Same
Turning the board over does not give an indication regarding if the alternative parts in mine are original or not as all the caps have either had there legs preformed (S shape bend to hold them firm whilst flowsoldering) or the legs bent over the pcb underside (like a radial insersion machine has preformed the insertion and crop).
What I find baffling is that the pcb area around the 12v pre reg caps (nichicon fine gold in mine) has the left over glue marks for the 1000uf Elna “for hi fi” that is found in the ose and the 2200uf Elna Slimic, (two rings of glue)
I also recently picked up an ose very good price, from a well known online auction with a dead laser (yes folks it is the laser where can I get one in the UK for reasonable money?? I have found the vam1202 in Germany for E26.01).
The ose will be used as a replacement for the ki while I modify it.
RE: (I/V filter caps?????!!!)
These are blue and marked "101J 100" in the OSE.
In the KI they are green, smaller, and marked "Audio 101J N" in the KI.
They are the green ones in both of mine. Two possibilities:
1. They ran short of the blue ones when they built my ose and substituted with stock of green ones.
2. both blue and green are of a similar specification and they use whatever they can get (duel sourcing).
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