The one for the left channel is. I followed the audio signal and it goes to the relay but doesn't come out. I checked the power to the coil and it was getting power. I pulled the relay and applied power across the coil and got nothing. I cut it open to see if it could be fixed and noticed the darker area around the coil. I checked for continuity and got nothing.
Can you find the end of the wire that was connected to the wire you found?
It's likely that there is/was a shorted turn. If you're lucky, the short is near the broken end and you can take off a turn or two to make reconnecting the wires viable.
It's likely that there is/was a shorted turn. If you're lucky, the short is near the broken end and you can take off a turn or two to make reconnecting the wires viable.
Not having any luck. I did find an end to the wire, but the plastic is melted around the end of the coil. This wire is extremely thin and when I try to pull it out it just breaks. I've tried digging away the plastic but that seems to be a problem because it is welded around the strands.
Bypassing the relay would work but would probably render the protection useless. There are fuses in each output just before the relay.
Bypassing the relay would work but would probably render the protection useless. There are fuses in each output just before the relay.
Is there a loud turn-on/off pop with the relay bypassed?
There are options but it would require him to be more flexible in his requirements.
There are options but it would require him to be more flexible in his requirements.
I only touched it with a wire to check it so I really didn't notice pop.
I am open to options. I had thought maybe I could do it with an opticoupler and use the old case as camouflage.
I found some that may work on eBay, but I would need more details.
I did find one on eBay that I am sure would fit, but is a 24VDC coil.No sure if it would work properly.
I am open to options. I had thought maybe I could do it with an opticoupler and use the old case as camouflage.
I found some that may work on eBay, but I would need more details.
I did find one on eBay that I am sure would fit, but is a 24VDC coil.No sure if it would work properly.
An optocoupler probably couldn't pass audio clean or handle the current.
A 24v could be made to work but you'd have to use the rail voltage (regulated) to make it engage.
Did you actually find one with a pin configuration that would drop in?
A 24v could be made to work but you'd have to use the rail voltage (regulated) to make it engage.
Did you actually find one with a pin configuration that would drop in?
The 24 volt will. I asked the seller to get me some dimensions for the 12 volt one. It "looked" right from what I could see. Waiting on a reply.
This is the opticoupler I was looking at.
This is the opticoupler I was looking at.
It's only 60ma. I'm not sure that you could get a perfect sine wave through a triac. I could be wrong.
60mA for the diode. I think most LEDs are some where around 20mA. I would have to use a resistor of course.
A friend suggested it. He uses them in TTL circuits to switch 120VAC. Don't know about audio.
A friend suggested it. He uses them in TTL circuits to switch 120VAC. Don't know about audio.
If he's absolutely insistent on displaying through the plexi, that would eliminate your first suggestion. If he's flexible on that, that would be the best solution.
If he absolutely wants it to appear original. you could jump the dead relay and use an external relay in the speaker output (hidden). You could pass the trigger wire for the relay out through the grommet used for the other wires.
If he absolutely wants it to appear original. you could jump the dead relay and use an external relay in the speaker output (hidden). You could pass the trigger wire for the relay out through the grommet used for the other wires.
Didn't you suggest wiring in a different relay but that wasn't acceptable because the owner insisted on using the plexi cover and it had to look original?
He would prefer that it looked original. He will be satisfied if it looks presentable. Most of all he wants it to work.
So your suggestion is to use an external relay?
So your suggestion is to use an external relay?
It's an option if you can get the trigger wire(s) out of the amp. I assumed that it was an old amp that had wires exiting the amp but it could be like some of the older amps that used wires to connect to terminals instead of grommets for wires. There weren't any photos of the entire amp so I'm not 100% sure what you have.
