Im installing a Kenwood KDC-X705 along with a SKAR RP600.5 amp to replace the Harmon/Kardon factory junk of 27 years old. The RP600.5 fits perfectly lengthwise where the original was located and has the speaker connections that are perfect too. I like it because I intend to use the 5th channel for a KICKER 43C104-N bundle sub box.
I tried Skar 6.5 coaxials in the front doors and those were aweful sounding. Nothing there!
I've now swapped in TX6.5 loud speakers. Wow, what a difference! Those crank for a super budget price. Will they last and for how long?
The front doors can accomodate one 6.5" and one 4.5", each mounted close together and each has a separate wire from the original amp location.
I want to run the Skar TX4, mid/tweeter in the 4.5" location.
The vehicle has 4.5" speakers in the rear above the hatch in the headliner. I wanted to run those too, but substitute 6.5" somehow.
If I forgo the rears, I could use chs 3&4 for the TX4 mid/tweeters and tell the Kenwood Excelon to compensate via its crossover programming.
I want to combine the TX6.5 loudspeakers with the TX4's and possibly use a crossover (do they need it) and connect speakers in the rear, more TX6.5's
I've heard that I don't really need rear speakers but they are nice to have when the rear hatch is open too and more MID for that size speaker is nice.
Should I forget the rears and use the amp's 4 channels on the fronts only, or can I get away with powering the fronts together on 1&2 channels, and the two rears on the chs 3&4? Will a XO be needed on the front or can the AMP be tuned to compensate?
Skar TX6.5 RMS 150W 100-8000 Hz
Skar Tx4 RMS 60W (pair) 60-21,000Hz
I hope I made that clear.
Attached is an example of someone putting a Kicker 46CSC654 in the headliner.
Attached is the door configuration of the 6.5 and 4.5 speakers.
I tried Skar 6.5 coaxials in the front doors and those were aweful sounding. Nothing there!
I've now swapped in TX6.5 loud speakers. Wow, what a difference! Those crank for a super budget price. Will they last and for how long?
The front doors can accomodate one 6.5" and one 4.5", each mounted close together and each has a separate wire from the original amp location.
I want to run the Skar TX4, mid/tweeter in the 4.5" location.
The vehicle has 4.5" speakers in the rear above the hatch in the headliner. I wanted to run those too, but substitute 6.5" somehow.
If I forgo the rears, I could use chs 3&4 for the TX4 mid/tweeters and tell the Kenwood Excelon to compensate via its crossover programming.
I want to combine the TX6.5 loudspeakers with the TX4's and possibly use a crossover (do they need it) and connect speakers in the rear, more TX6.5's
I've heard that I don't really need rear speakers but they are nice to have when the rear hatch is open too and more MID for that size speaker is nice.
Should I forget the rears and use the amp's 4 channels on the fronts only, or can I get away with powering the fronts together on 1&2 channels, and the two rears on the chs 3&4? Will a XO be needed on the front or can the AMP be tuned to compensate?
Skar TX6.5 RMS 150W 100-8000 Hz
Skar Tx4 RMS 60W (pair) 60-21,000Hz
I hope I made that clear.
Attached is an example of someone putting a Kicker 46CSC654 in the headliner.
Attached is the door configuration of the 6.5 and 4.5 speakers.
Attachments
I think inserting a 100uF 100v bipolar capacitor in series with the 4s would be enough to protect them if you want to use the rear channels for two more speakers. This doesn't mean it will make them invincible. You will have to have some self-control and listen for signs of stress which isn't always easy to hear at high volume levels. Ears have an x-max like speakers and above a certain level, can't detect things they can at lower levels. That's why you might not hear distortion (seated in the vehicle) when you have the volume high but if you step 15-20 feet from the vehicle, you can hear terrible distortion, generally from amplifier clipping.
As a side note... I didn't know the amp so I looked it up. Less than $200 for that amp is insane. I'm glad I'm not competing in that market.
As a side note... I didn't know the amp so I looked it up. Less than $200 for that amp is insane. I'm glad I'm not competing in that market.
@Perry Babin thanks for the input. I thought the amp was a good price too. It was reviewed by independents on YouTube and it didn't review badly. In the review, they noted that there needed to be a heat sink somewhere but I didn't catch where. They were using a metal clip with some "heat absorbing" material clamped to a transistor pack I assumed. Said it was needed for HOT days in the car I thought I heard. Supposedly Skar is using older designs and rebuilding them for modern day use. Works for me. I think the speaker hook-ups are spot-on compared to other brands.
There appear to be several versions of this amp. Without a photo of the class D section (likely where there is a problem) I can't comment on the heating problem.
'Newer' designs aren't necessarily better.
'Newer' designs aren't necessarily better.