Is this supposed to be a full range or bass device?
You don't need the dayton suite if all you want is to measure T/S parameters.
Many years ago, I wrote up a post on using ARTA to measure T/S parameters
You can also use REW as described here Lilmike’s DIY Impedance Measurement Jig
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hey X - besides this proposed sub, can a punchy box be made as below to out-clobber K15? - maybe with 4-10? 4-12? - it could get heavy if ferrite motor - maybe Delta 10A on the relatively cheap - maybe a bass guitar cabinet
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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Hi guys
I opened a thread in the Subwoofer Forum for the Karlsonator subwoofer. Here it is:
The Karlsonator Subwoofer (aka The Magnificent Monster)
Enjoy,
Deon
I opened a thread in the Subwoofer Forum for the Karlsonator subwoofer. Here it is:
The Karlsonator Subwoofer (aka The Magnificent Monster)
Enjoy,
Deon
I was going to call it the MOAK. The Mother of All Karlsonators. 🙂
I will try to model it as soon as I have some time. Even with one of those 15 in drivers it will be impressive. Are you sure you want four in parallel? The box size you give may be too small volume wise.
I will try to model it as soon as I have some time. Even with one of those 15 in drivers it will be impressive. Are you sure you want four in parallel? The box size you give may be too small volume wise.
Well, the units I am going to use are just 13" diameter, so maybe the 12" units might be closer in spec. I hope all four will fit in. I can make the box taller if need be. I just chose that height because then I could get a single box out of a single sheet of wood (the outside that is). I want to use 30mm thick plywood, and they come in sheets of 1220mm x 2440mm. So for a depth of 550mm, the height must then be 1880mm: 2440mm - 550mm = 1890mm, 1890mm - 5mm (for the cut) = 1885mm, and add in 5mm fudge factor. But I can make them as tall as 2000mm in the space I have for them (even as tall as the full 2440mm, but then I would have to move some things). The width and depth (at 570mm side and 550mm deep) are at their max for the space I have. What do you think?
Deon
PS. The name of the thread in the Subwoofer forum has been changed to MOAK: The Mother of All Karlsonators (aka The Magnificent Monster)
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1-15" cabinet sounds real good for starters for myself - re:size - there's been a few larger than K15 in history
Karlson's factory 18" coupler cabinet with top compartment for midrange and treble drivers
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/a/img338/7135/foldoutpage3web.jpg
Cetec Gauss K18 model 5181
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6158/6196200749_4937e6e852_b.jpg
Karlson 12 foot long coupler plan
http://img484.imageshack.us/img484/9439/ts1fb1.jpg
http://img484.imageshack.us/img484/4555/ts2yu1.jpg
Karlson's factory 18" coupler cabinet with separate top compartment for midrange and treble drivers - until I found this brochure, I never knew John Kalrson had made an 18" driver version.
Cetec Gauss K18 model 5181 bass guitar cabinet
Karlson 12 foot long coupler plan - I don't understand what seems to be the driver holes on the angled surface -?
I'd assume the two speakers mounted on the rear of the long surface, then their back waves would be contained in
the theater's ceiling or wall - ?
Karlson's factory 18" coupler cabinet with top compartment for midrange and treble drivers
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/a/img338/7135/foldoutpage3web.jpg
Cetec Gauss K18 model 5181
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6158/6196200749_4937e6e852_b.jpg
Karlson 12 foot long coupler plan
http://img484.imageshack.us/img484/9439/ts1fb1.jpg
http://img484.imageshack.us/img484/4555/ts2yu1.jpg
Karlson's factory 18" coupler cabinet with separate top compartment for midrange and treble drivers - until I found this brochure, I never knew John Kalrson had made an 18" driver version.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Cetec Gauss K18 model 5181 bass guitar cabinet
Karlson 12 foot long coupler plan - I don't understand what seems to be the driver holes on the angled surface -?
I'd assume the two speakers mounted on the rear of the long surface, then their back waves would be contained in
the theater's ceiling or wall - ?
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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MOAK v1
Results of the MOAK subwoofer is in this thread:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subwoofers/254948-karlsonator-subwoofer-aka-magnificent-monster-3.html#post3899479
They look pretty good actually for a 2.5x scale. Here is a sneak peak...
Results of the MOAK subwoofer is in this thread:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subwoofers/254948-karlsonator-subwoofer-aka-magnificent-monster-3.html#post3899479
They look pretty good actually for a 2.5x scale. Here is a sneak peak...
Correct, the false wall/ceiling cavity appears to be a Klam's rear chamber with the rest being its vented front chamber, i.e. really large, low tuned 4th order BP.
GM
Finally got a chance to get my 0.4x versions finished and running, went a bit slow due to Easter holidays and other commitments. Really impressed with the sound from these speakers. In fact so much so, I'm currently planning to build the 0.53x version in 12mm birch ply.
I've attached a few pictures of the build process, the finished articles and my 0.53x plans below. Not my neatest foamboard work I must admit, but I'm looking forward to seeing how the dual TC9's perform in the plywood build.
I've attached a few pictures of the build process, the finished articles and my 0.53x plans below. Not my neatest foamboard work I must admit, but I'm looking forward to seeing how the dual TC9's perform in the plywood build.
Attachments
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Blaides,
Super looking speakers there! I think it looks very neat. If you think these sound good, you will be pleasantly surprised at how much bigger and better the 0.53x sounds. 😀
Super looking speakers there! I think it looks very neat. If you think these sound good, you will be pleasantly surprised at how much bigger and better the 0.53x sounds. 😀
Nice. I was looking forward to your one-piece build. Looks great! The inner pieces are FAR neater than my build. Thanks for posting that!
Carl
Very interesting builds in this thread. I'm considering building a pair of 0.4x or 0.53x Karlonators for a friend as computer speakers. How would they work on desktop use listened as a near-field speaker (under 1m listening distance)? Also considering using it so, would the 0.4 or the 0.53 version be the better alternative? I wonder if HF interference would be a problem using 2 drivers.
I got a pair of Peerless P830986 3" full ranges already collecting dust. Browsing the thread, I noticed this driver hasn't been used yet in here. I wonder if it would fare well in a simulation or should I just make the extra investment towards the Vifa TC9?
Also a question about the build. If I make a smallish speaker like this from BB ply (let's say 10mm thick), would it need internal bracing and/or the baffle brace shown in some builds? I'm jealous of you guys having that foam core for 1$, seems to be damned hard to get in where I live 😀
I got a pair of Peerless P830986 3" full ranges already collecting dust. Browsing the thread, I noticed this driver hasn't been used yet in here. I wonder if it would fare well in a simulation or should I just make the extra investment towards the Vifa TC9?
Also a question about the build. If I make a smallish speaker like this from BB ply (let's say 10mm thick), would it need internal bracing and/or the baffle brace shown in some builds? I'm jealous of you guys having that foam core for 1$, seems to be damned hard to get in where I live 😀
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Peerless 830986 in 0.4x Karlsonator
Mayuri,
Those Peerless drivers are pretty nice and can work well in a Karlsonator scaled to 0.4x in height and depth, but scale the width to 0.43x for optimum results. These drivers are not as efficient as the TC9's so your SPL will be down a bit - but not a big deal for near field PC speakers. The 0.4x works much better near field as PC speakers as the size size is small still. At 0.53x it is kind of a larger box that is either floor or standmount or a largish bookshelf. You will need a BSC circuit to balance the bass and treble on this so use a 0.6mH inductor in parallel with a 5 ohm resistor and put those in series with the positive between the amp and the positive terminal. Here is the predicted response:
Certainly, you can build this out of BB plywood - look at the great example that Francisco Perez did.
Good luck!
Mayuri,
Those Peerless drivers are pretty nice and can work well in a Karlsonator scaled to 0.4x in height and depth, but scale the width to 0.43x for optimum results. These drivers are not as efficient as the TC9's so your SPL will be down a bit - but not a big deal for near field PC speakers. The 0.4x works much better near field as PC speakers as the size size is small still. At 0.53x it is kind of a larger box that is either floor or standmount or a largish bookshelf. You will need a BSC circuit to balance the bass and treble on this so use a 0.6mH inductor in parallel with a 5 ohm resistor and put those in series with the positive between the amp and the positive terminal. Here is the predicted response:
Certainly, you can build this out of BB plywood - look at the great example that Francisco Perez did.
Good luck!
Attachments
Thank you for the simulation x! Are you referring to the 0.53x or the 0.4x version with this? If it's the 0.4x, that's some impressive low-range extension from a 3" driver.
You will need a BSC circuit to balance the bass and treble on this so use a 0.6mH inductor in parallel with a 5 ohm resistor and put those in series with the positive between the amp and the positive terminal. Here is the predicted response:
I haven't got the time to build the enclosure yet, but I'm itching to start sawing some plywood already 😀
0.4x scale - make the Karlson aperture come to a sharp cusp instead of slot for deeper extension as shown.
no minis but my long distance cutter is at this point on Greg B's standard Karlsonator 12s - hey X - which 12s do you think may give the best match from simulations?
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Freddi,
That is a nice looking Karlsonator 12 box. Which drivers are you thinking of (or do you have and want to try)? I can't say that I have sim'd too many 12 in drivers so don't have one off the top of my head to recommend. My guess is one with a moderate Qts - not too low in order to increase bass extension. Do you have a Beta 12LTA - good full range? That may be a place to start. Do you plan to run single driver full range or to use a helper tweeter? A Definimax 12HO gives good bass performance. Really powerful motor coax's seem to not have as good bass extension - like all the B&C's start rolling off at 100 Hz.
Here are some sims with the Definimax - it can get pretty loud 120 dB at xmax with 50 volts of drive.
That is a nice looking Karlsonator 12 box. Which drivers are you thinking of (or do you have and want to try)? I can't say that I have sim'd too many 12 in drivers so don't have one off the top of my head to recommend. My guess is one with a moderate Qts - not too low in order to increase bass extension. Do you have a Beta 12LTA - good full range? That may be a place to start. Do you plan to run single driver full range or to use a helper tweeter? A Definimax 12HO gives good bass performance. Really powerful motor coax's seem to not have as good bass extension - like all the B&C's start rolling off at 100 Hz.
Here are some sims with the Definimax - it can get pretty loud 120 dB at xmax with 50 volts of drive.
