I will take a picture of it tomorrow when I’m at the shop. Everything is the same as in the picture I posted near the beginning of the thread with the Amazon supply but I’ll repost zoomed in.
I feed both amp boards off the 24v supply with both positives and both negatives screwed into it’s +/- output, parallel I believe. I’ve disconnected the line level, line out/line in that connects both boards to check for ground loops or something but no difference
My shop I use for my landscaping business has no 120v so I provide my own via a Ryobi 120v inverter that is powered by a 40v battery, it’s rated 300w. I also have a 1kw pure sine wave inverter in my truck that runs off a 12v lithium slave battery that receives its charge from the alternator and or solar panel mounted to my roof. I have this mobile setup to charge my cordless handheld equipment. The reason I mention this is maybe this setup is a particularly clean source of 120v considering it’s pure sine and powered from a likely dead silent lithium battery. Just a thought for a diagnostic test other than the Ryobi source. I could bring everything home and plug it in if necessary.
Ill post a picture of my amplifier box tomorrow but everything is exactly the same except the new supply is sitting there instead.
I feed both amp boards off the 24v supply with both positives and both negatives screwed into it’s +/- output, parallel I believe. I’ve disconnected the line level, line out/line in that connects both boards to check for ground loops or something but no difference
My shop I use for my landscaping business has no 120v so I provide my own via a Ryobi 120v inverter that is powered by a 40v battery, it’s rated 300w. I also have a 1kw pure sine wave inverter in my truck that runs off a 12v lithium slave battery that receives its charge from the alternator and or solar panel mounted to my roof. I have this mobile setup to charge my cordless handheld equipment. The reason I mention this is maybe this setup is a particularly clean source of 120v considering it’s pure sine and powered from a likely dead silent lithium battery. Just a thought for a diagnostic test other than the Ryobi source. I could bring everything home and plug it in if necessary.
Ill post a picture of my amplifier box tomorrow but everything is exactly the same except the new supply is sitting there instead.
Just to try to help this as much as possible on my end without too much of me having to go back and forth with suggestions, I can take a rew measurement with calibrated mic to show the specific noise frequencies if that might help narrow down the issue. It would be much easier for me to take a measurement with my iPhone audiotools app but whatever you guys want. I could upload a video of the noise also probably. I can take whatever measurements with my basic voltmeter too.
I've used mean well smps in noise sensitive circuit and I'm very happy with it. And they seem they are made to last.
I was puzzled searching for a psu for a class D amp. Mostly they fall in two categories: active or passive PFC. My gathering is that the difference is about EMI compliance with international standards. There is an awkward situation. Active PFC is approved but hard to get. Mouser for example won't ship this type to EU. The passive version is easier to get and for half the money, but it's not supposed for domestic appliances. They are allowed for LED lights and industrial use for high power where active PFC apparently doesn't fit. So, here is my question: am I illegal if I get a cheap 20A passive PFC type for my amp?
Interesting to know they feel good with load lower than their full capacity. I always was wondering about that.
I was puzzled searching for a psu for a class D amp. Mostly they fall in two categories: active or passive PFC. My gathering is that the difference is about EMI compliance with international standards. There is an awkward situation. Active PFC is approved but hard to get. Mouser for example won't ship this type to EU. The passive version is easier to get and for half the money, but it's not supposed for domestic appliances. They are allowed for LED lights and industrial use for high power where active PFC apparently doesn't fit. So, here is my question: am I illegal if I get a cheap 20A passive PFC type for my amp?
Any merit in an inexpensive product like this?
NOYITO DC LC Filter DC EMI Power Filter 0 to 50V 2A 4A 10A 20A Filtering Board (10A) https://a.co/d/066lbpf
NOYITO DC LC Filter DC EMI Power Filter 0 to 50V 2A 4A 10A 20A Filtering Board (10A) https://a.co/d/066lbpf
Just wanted to run it up the flagpole to see. $10 isn’t much money for a project that I want to end up nice but I also don’t want to be buying a bunch of $5-$10 parts that aren’t going to suit my purposes. This project has added up very quickly already. There’s also the issue of available space in my little amplifier enclosure, I can’t just keep adding components hoping for results.
Don't use it at more than 40V or so... the picture shows capacitors that are only rated for 50 and you don't want to run it that close to the limit. Would be easy to change them out though...
I assume these smps supplies could be on amps that require dual rail voltages (like +/- 25VDC)?
What are the output voltages of the supplies pictured in IMG_1988 & 1992?
Can't find the thread unfortunately but AFAIK member Elvee measured and improved that "trouble free" cheap SMPS as showed early in the thread. It exists in various output voltages and current ratings. It is an RF transmitter and a very good one. Probably discovered by measuring and not the usual assumption that all is good when it is cheap.
I got the 24v ~500w mean well unit. It’s a nice supply for my needs except I’m not quite sure I’m getting 110rms from my wondom 160x2 board. It might be in my head but the amplifier is rated up to ~40v input. I definitely have enough amperage at what’s listed as sufficient input voltage, just can’t shake the suspicion I’m leaving something on the table.
https://store.sure-electronics.com/product/AA-AB32361
https://store.sure-electronics.com/product/AA-AB32361