I’m unsure if the purpose of this forum is a little above my head. I consider what I do diy in the way that I don’t go to Best Buy and choose a big box store brand. I’m getting into using pre made components like amplifier boards, raw drivers and the like to create my audio equipment. I just wanted to preface the question with an attempt to show respect to the legit circuit builders.
I’m about to order this power supply
https://www.trcelectronics.com/View/Mean-Well/EPP-500-24.shtml
and be done fiddling with lower power amazon units. I’m currently using a 24v 6a open frame supply,
Zerone AC 100-240V to DC 24V 6-9A Switching Electricity Supply Module 150W High Power Industrial DC Electricity Supply Bare Board https://a.co/d/drK2azZ
which may be introducing noise into my Dayton Audio Kabd boards, or, maybe the boards may have an inherent low level noise. Either way I like the versatility of the kabd boards and have decided to move into a power supply that will be plenty for my needs with room to grow.
Is there any dissuasive feedback on the mean well 500w 20a unit? Maybe a lower cost route that is as good or better? The amp boards will be In close proximity to the power supply in this small 7”x6”x3” steel electronics enclosure. Is this arrangement too close because of noise issues? I’d be willing to switch to a similar enclosure that would allow maybe ~6” spacing between supply and boards if necessary. Thanks in advance, happy new year also.
I’m about to order this power supply
https://www.trcelectronics.com/View/Mean-Well/EPP-500-24.shtml
and be done fiddling with lower power amazon units. I’m currently using a 24v 6a open frame supply,
Zerone AC 100-240V to DC 24V 6-9A Switching Electricity Supply Module 150W High Power Industrial DC Electricity Supply Bare Board https://a.co/d/drK2azZ
which may be introducing noise into my Dayton Audio Kabd boards, or, maybe the boards may have an inherent low level noise. Either way I like the versatility of the kabd boards and have decided to move into a power supply that will be plenty for my needs with room to grow.
Is there any dissuasive feedback on the mean well 500w 20a unit? Maybe a lower cost route that is as good or better? The amp boards will be In close proximity to the power supply in this small 7”x6”x3” steel electronics enclosure. Is this arrangement too close because of noise issues? I’d be willing to switch to a similar enclosure that would allow maybe ~6” spacing between supply and boards if necessary. Thanks in advance, happy new year also.
Meanwell makes good stuff, if it meets your needs.
But noise pickup can happen with any SMPS, and you may need shielding
or extra output filtering if that happens.
But noise pickup can happen with any SMPS, and you may need shielding
or extra output filtering if that happens.
Hi, i have used the cheaper one without any issues, i have over 100+ units of those purchased and installed woth the ACA amp, i got them in 12, 24, 36 and 48 volts variants, intalled them close the amplifier board, and never for once regretted it.....YMMV....
I’ve been happy with the amazon 150w unit and especially at the twenty bucks price. I have a wondom 2x160 board in the mail that claims 112w x 2 @1% thd which will be dsp’d off the line out of the kabd 2x50 board. The 500w mean well is $120 delivered which is not much more than the 3-400w units and will allow me to stuff that box with some potential power. But, it’s a hundred bucks for something that I don’t know too much about and don’t want a hundred dollar paper weight. Eventually this box may house a kabd 4x100 slave to another 4x100 or 4x30 so I want a solid power supply. I’m feeling good about buying the mean well now 👍🏼
the key to using worry free smps is to get a unit that has way more capacity that what your applications required, that has been my rile of thumb since...
Are you aware of the range of SMPS filters that have been designed by members? I use the more-or-less universal PO89ZB all the time for both plus and minus voltages and it greatly quiets SMPS output noise. I take the basic design and create my own PCBs to exactly fit where I need it and/or design multi-voltage boards with each voltage filtered by its own filter. Granted, one filter will not handle massive current but it might serve some of your needs. Also, if you need significant current to drive multiple boards you might consider using multiple filters to manage the current. Over-spec'ing current capacity isn't going to make a supply quieter.
the acid taste for the pudding is always in the eating.....
over 100+ smps bricks with zero failures is nothing to scoff at....
I’ve learned most of my audio knowledge on diyma over the last decade or so. I’ve come to the end of the road with my car stereo and have taken to home hifi diy as of recent. I’m only aware that smps filters exist but I’m unsure of much else. I don’t know if my power (wattage) is low, medium or high in this end of the hobby. I have two JL Audio HD900/5’s in my car so this ~200 watts worth of rms power seems kind of pedestrian to me. That being said I don’t know what an appropriate ps filter arraignment would be.
Coming from car audio my focus has been dsp tuning and location perception based on frequency because of the challenges of realistic speaker placement in the cabin. Anyone who wants to go in depth on things other than those two aren’t risking redundancy.
There are times where I’m looking for problems to be my boogeyman. I’ve desperately tried to find any nay say about my 2” tectonic bmr driver’s outside of the obvious limitations. I really want a good reason to go three way in the two way bookshelves I recently built but they do well for my needs and expectations. Point being, if powers supplies aren’t a big concern if trash is avoided then I can easily accept that. I’m running anarchy 704’s in those and I’m ready to throw a decent amount of power at them. 🍻
I use this https://www.ebay.com/itm/393009013054 in my two systems. For the price, you could always have one on hand just to A/B sound quality with whatever switcher you'd like to put in the cabinet; obviously this relative monstrosity wouldnt fit.
In my DIY, I dont try to make a viable product forced to a bill of materials of currently available commercial components. The 24V linears I use are used parts, obtained for a song - and have been continuously energized for the past two years or so...as they're designed to be.
Why linear? No problems. Real or imagined. FAIK, a nice MeanWell would work just as fine.
In my DIY, I dont try to make a viable product forced to a bill of materials of currently available commercial components. The 24V linears I use are used parts, obtained for a song - and have been continuously energized for the past two years or so...as they're designed to be.
Why linear? No problems. Real or imagined. FAIK, a nice MeanWell would work just as fine.
I use SMPS and DC-DC boost for my tube preamp including phono. Never found a better way to do it. Every linear supply has had some hum, and I HATE hum... It was layout since I can send 60Hz into my regulator and get silent power, but there was a magnetic field induced into the circuit from the PT... I do use linear for the power amplifier (but DC-DC boost for the bias voltage and heaters) and there is 5mV moise (not hum though, more like pink noise) on the speaker while driven by a muted preamp.
Frankly, if the one you're using from Amazon is working well enough, why waste money upgrading?
Frankly, if the one you're using from Amazon is working well enough, why waste money upgrading?
Going from ~150w to 500w for the ability to run the 160x2 (111x2 @1%thd) wondom board with Dayton kabd 2x50, and to possibly be endgame for my little mini receiver for future board upgrades. I’m more excited about this dsp amplifier enclosure than the speakers I’m planning/building. Looks to me like a mini a\v receiver. I’m trying to decide how to make it look classy, brushed copper front panel with a couple of knobs or some type of display. Either way I’m stoked about it.
Makes sense if you need the power 🙂 As others have said, Meanwell make a decent product.
Another option - Less money and more power (in theory) The 600W version seems like the "pricepoint". https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002843829663.html
Another option - Less money and more power (in theory) The 600W version seems like the "pricepoint". https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002843829663.html
Ali express sketches me out for some reason, perhaps I should reconsider. I do seem to have a fondness for open frame supplies in this type of build. I’m going to gut an old polk center channel and run active with the kabd 430 board run off a 100w external power supply from parts express I have on the shelf. This particular build in the original post will likely remain a pure stereo endeavor.
FWIW, I use these ones in all of my builds... https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000075651560.html EDIT: not that one - the shipping is insane!
They do fail if you cook the output caps - I change them when I get it. Out go the 1000H 85°C caps and in come 5000H 105°C caps 🙂 I cook the supply though - I figure the inside chassis temp is almost 75°C. I also derate to about 40%
They do fail if you cook the output caps - I change them when I get it. Out go the 1000H 85°C caps and in come 5000H 105°C caps 🙂 I cook the supply though - I figure the inside chassis temp is almost 75°C. I also derate to about 40%
It's a good skill to have... Not overly difficult if your iron isn't trash.
Just set the temperature (or not if it's a Quartz 30W job), heat the parts you want to solder, and let the parts melt the solder into the joint. Not too little, not too much. Look at a board you have already to see what a good joint "looks like".
First result on Google for "soldering tutorial":
Just set the temperature (or not if it's a Quartz 30W job), heat the parts you want to solder, and let the parts melt the solder into the joint. Not too little, not too much. Look at a board you have already to see what a good joint "looks like".
First result on Google for "soldering tutorial":
well my power supply arrived yesterday and I hooked it up and found my noise floor to have become more of a noise attic. There’s a buzz that wasn’t present with the Amazon supply. I looked over the post about a diy noise filter but it seems geared towards 50khz and 200khz which doesn’t seem like the cause of the audible midrange type noise. Has anyone a recommended unit for purchase? I’m not quite ready to learn to solder and especially on something directly handling power.