I think I have all the ingredients 🙂 whether it's 4ohm /6 or 8, as soon as I put it under the Carver I'll understand if the closed box capacity is ok.
also rechecked the impedances with my LCR4070D and the values are slightly higher than yesterday's with the borrowed multimeter. I have to postpone the listening test until tomorrow, the large hole of the woofer is ok, the one of the tweeter needs to be adapted. Then I will take the 4 cables out and temporarily secure them with hot glue, so that I can test the crossover from the outside.
My, you do seem to have quite a few bits and pieces lying around!
I was thinking that all you really have to do to test if the woofer is compatible with the LS3/5A size box is to install it in the box without a crossover, blank off the tweeter opening, and listen to the bass response.
If the woofer proves compatible then the next step would be to move on to installing and tweaking the 2nd order crossover.
I was thinking that all you really have to do to test if the woofer is compatible with the LS3/5A size box is to install it in the box without a crossover, blank off the tweeter opening, and listen to the bass response.
If the woofer proves compatible then the next step would be to move on to installing and tweaking the 2nd order crossover.
🙂 but sure, I can also try the woofer alone, but the front pair of LS 3/5a that I thought I had ready, I don't. all the holes on the panel are missing, both those for fixing to the box and those for the woofer. I remove the Ls3 /front panel and put in the new ones with the Wharfedale comp.
I see an opportunity. You appear to have three inductors in series. For example the two larger ones are going to readily combine to a greater value than their sum if you push them together into a stack. This could be exploited either by not needing the third, or by having a variable inductor.
Looking at it another way:
If you are adding the individual series inductor values up to attain a target value, then note that the total inductance only equals L1 + L2 + L3 provided there is no magnetic coupling between the inductors, e.g., provided they are placed some distance apart.
If you are adding the individual series inductor values up to attain a target value, then note that the total inductance only equals L1 + L2 + L3 provided there is no magnetic coupling between the inductors, e.g., provided they are placed some distance apart.
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your observations are right, then when I have a more precise idea of the final result, I will change the tweeters because this one does not convince me much, only for a first test then I will decide what to use. instead there is one thing that I have never dedicated myself to and it is the crossover PCB board. what do you say?
since you know a lot about crossovers, I checked in other topics, I try to be as precise as possible. with the capacitors I had the frequency cut is more on 3000/3200. also your observations on the inductors are confirmed by observing the crossover of the Kef 104/2 where the inductors are perfectly alternated in their position
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what do you use?
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what do you use?
Are you asking about component orientation / direction? or are you asking about types and brands?
where do you place the crossover components -
wood, plastic, or something else?
if you have an example of your own crossover even better
an update:
wood, plastic, or something else?
if you have an example of your own crossover even better
an update:
This is no hiend project I guess.
Maybe think about a different idea than a 12 dB crossover: The woofer will get along fine with a single coil to calmly take it out of action. Some of these Kevlar cones are quite friendly in the upper range.
The tweeter needs some resistors to throttle it down to the insensitive 16 Ohm woofer. So we need two resistors. For crossing it, a cap and a coil should be fine. This is the most simple way of building such a 2-way imo. You can do such a setup just by ear, with a limited number of parts to try. Even if combining 6 and 12 dB/oct is not exactly straight science, in the end the acoustic result counts.
For a start, listen to the woofer only with some well known music, you will hear some not so nice tremble, depending on the actual chassis. Then insert a coil. You should be able to find a value that removes the anoying sound and only leaves some dark tainted music.
(You need some fantasy to listen in such a way, but I build many speakers that way, before I could affort measuring gear. An smart option would be to buy a 20€ Dayton Audio microfone for your smart phone and a 4€ app)
https://www.soundimports.eu/de/dayton-audio-imm-6.html
Now put a 4uF capacitor in line with the tweeter and listen. It should be much to loud. Now you need resistors...
Maybe think about a different idea than a 12 dB crossover: The woofer will get along fine with a single coil to calmly take it out of action. Some of these Kevlar cones are quite friendly in the upper range.
The tweeter needs some resistors to throttle it down to the insensitive 16 Ohm woofer. So we need two resistors. For crossing it, a cap and a coil should be fine. This is the most simple way of building such a 2-way imo. You can do such a setup just by ear, with a limited number of parts to try. Even if combining 6 and 12 dB/oct is not exactly straight science, in the end the acoustic result counts.
For a start, listen to the woofer only with some well known music, you will hear some not so nice tremble, depending on the actual chassis. Then insert a coil. You should be able to find a value that removes the anoying sound and only leaves some dark tainted music.
(You need some fantasy to listen in such a way, but I build many speakers that way, before I could affort measuring gear. An smart option would be to buy a 20€ Dayton Audio microfone for your smart phone and a 4€ app)
https://www.soundimports.eu/de/dayton-audio-imm-6.html
Now put a 4uF capacitor in line with the tweeter and listen. It should be much to loud. Now you need resistors...
I found this old picture which probably teaches nothing but where my priorities lie when I'm on a roll 😉
In all fairness when I'm working on a crossover I do get to optimising the layout and connections from time to time, but it always seems when I pin something down that I may want to change it later.
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/geddes-on-waveguides.103872/post-2450113
@Turbowatch2
😆
it's certainly not hiend, at the moment, then I'll make it beautiful
this is orig. Warfedale d. 8 centre on tweeter
😆
it's certainly not hiend, at the moment, then I'll make it beautiful
this is orig. Warfedale d. 8 centre on tweeter
I agree with the above and can supply a crossover schematic to match the description:
R1 and R2 form an arrangement called an L pad which attenuates the tweeter to match the lower sensitivity of the mid-woofer.
For example, to reduce the level of a 4 ohm tweeter by 6 dB we need R1 = 2 ohm and R2 = 4 ohm (or the nearest standard resistance value equivalents).
For only 3 dB of attenuation, R1 = 1 ohm and R2 = 10 ohm. Both resistors should be 10 W rated ceramic types.
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