alvaius - could you post a link to AudioAnalyzer please? I can't seem to find it on a quick web search.
I'm not sure I found it either, but this site is pretty bad *** http://audionova.nu/innehall/audionova_softwares.htm
The Behringer ECM 8000s are excellent
calibration mics, which are also capable
of very high quality audio recording as
well. Although marketed as a calibration
microphone, they have gained wide popularity
with home recordists and professional engineers.
These do require a low impedance, balanced
input microphone preamplifier, capable of
providing phantom power.
calibration mics, which are also capable
of very high quality audio recording as
well. Although marketed as a calibration
microphone, they have gained wide popularity
with home recordists and professional engineers.
These do require a low impedance, balanced
input microphone preamplifier, capable of
providing phantom power.
I checked out panasonics pdf on the WM 61A capsole (only one I have left that I know works or is new). I know which pin (or "term"?) is ground and which is output on the capsole from the pdf http://www.panasonic.com/industrial/components/pdf/em06_wm61_a_b_dne.pdf, but I don't know what values are safe (if that's the right word) to hook up to the capsole and on which wire do they go, output or ground? I'm thinking output, right? But I still don't know what size resistor if any and what value battery. The pdf gives 2V as "standard opporation voltage" and 10V as "max. operating voltage." Should I use a single D 1.5 volt battery (I know availus recommended 4AA, but why not one D? Does 4 give 6 volts?) and the 2Kohm resistor on the output wire? Which comes first resistor or battery(s)? And then just plug it into my sound card and I'm set. I have a Creative SB 16 sound card, BTW.
I didn't have any luck looking at your link. In any case, I use a 9V battery which seems to work well. I don't know what the SB input looks like, but I used a simple opamp as an amp/buffer to get the signal up to a level that the sound card in my computer could use. In the Digikey catalog, there's a nice little schematic showing you exactly what to do: 2.2K resistor connected between the +9V and the capsule, the other capsule lead grounded. From the junction of the resistor and the capsule, peel off the output signal from the DC by using a capacitor to the input of your sound card (or to the op amp signal conditioner).
SY said:
The apostraffy at the end was an accident and was not part of the link. I couldn't find anything on digikey, not suprisingly. I know where the resistor and battery go but the cap I don't know. The cap goes from where the resistor meets capsole back down that wire to past the -9 volt before it goes into the positive input in my sound card. And the ground goes to the negative input in my soundcard with nothing going to it. Do I have this right? What value cap?
Judging by this circuit that Digi-Key put on top of the listing of the WM 61 b and the rest of the series, 1 uF is the answer. I wouldn't make it an electrolytic.
That LM386 is an inexpensive, common little audio amp that has been used for a long time.
Judging by this schematic, I would think you could connect this up to a soundcard directly, I don't think the LM386 has any particular circuitry just for mics-if it works with an LM386, I guess it works with a soundcard.
I beliefve you can dispense with the 10K and connection to the ground. Just hook the end of cap to the soundcard.
That LM386 is an inexpensive, common little audio amp that has been used for a long time.
Judging by this schematic, I would think you could connect this up to a soundcard directly, I don't think the LM386 has any particular circuitry just for mics-if it works with an LM386, I guess it works with a soundcard.
I beliefve you can dispense with the 10K and connection to the ground. Just hook the end of cap to the soundcard.
Attachments
Freakaccident said:
FYI,
I have an APEX220 mic and an APA1 preamp which can be seen here - http://www.apexelectronics.com - both are a dirt cheap way to help get set up to measure speakers.
My audio engineer tested the APA1 preamp with his AudioPrecision system, which I don't understand, but he said that it was dead flat to around two-hundred kilohertz, where there was a small rise, good enough for me. The mic is a less expensive clone of the ECM8000, I haven't had it tested yet but will create a calibration file when I get the chance.
kw: Gee, and I just scanned in my hand-drawn sketch. Yours is cooler.
Jimmy: Depending on your sound card, you may not need the opamp circuitry. Try it first with just the battery, resistor, and 1 uF cap.
Jimmy: Depending on your sound card, you may not need the opamp circuitry. Try it first with just the battery, resistor, and 1 uF cap.
bzdang:
The links on that site go absolutely nowhere-at least tonight. I tried alternative methods to work around to apex 22 microphone but I never get any info or price.
Will check again tomorrow.
The links on that site go absolutely nowhere-at least tonight. I tried alternative methods to work around to apex 22 microphone but I never get any info or price.
Will check again tomorrow.
I see the 1115.pdf is where you got that picture from. I had trouble viewing that file, mainly I couldn't see anything, but I downloaded it now and it has that confusing wiring schematic in it. I don't know how to read something like that right now. I had enough troubles and still have some slight problems with my gainclone, I don't know if I'm ready for another amp adventure.
I did not know what "kw:" was I almost thought you were hilusonating, complementing my drawing. If I need an opamp I think I will just give up cause it's going to drive me crazy I already know it. My soundcard is a Creative SB 16. Sy, can you post that sketch you scanned, if it is not too much trouble?
SY said:
I did not know what "kw:" was I almost thought you were hilusonating, complementing my drawing. If I need an opamp I think I will just give up cause it's going to drive me crazy I already know it. My soundcard is a Creative SB 16. Sy, can you post that sketch you scanned, if it is not too much trouble?
Jimmy:
I think you miss the point. The LM386 is just an inexpensive amp used for years. It does not have a particularly sensitive fornt end.
My point is that if this mic can feed an LM386 and drive loudspeakers without a special mic preamp, then it should be able to drive your soundcard without a special preamp.
I was not suggesting you build the LM386 circuit. Only suggesting that if the mic directly drives an LM386, then it should be able to directly drive your soundcard.
In other words, the mic preamp might not be necessary at all.
I think you miss the point. The LM386 is just an inexpensive amp used for years. It does not have a particularly sensitive fornt end.
My point is that if this mic can feed an LM386 and drive loudspeakers without a special mic preamp, then it should be able to drive your soundcard without a special preamp.
I was not suggesting you build the LM386 circuit. Only suggesting that if the mic directly drives an LM386, then it should be able to directly drive your soundcard.
In other words, the mic preamp might not be necessary at all.
kelticwizard said:
A preamp is what? Is it the battery with the resistor and cap? Or do I definately need that? Does any one know where the cap goes?
I tried hooking up a mic with nothing inbetween into my soundcard and it didn't work. But they say that if when soldering you get the mic too hot it can damage it, this was about 2 years ago. So that might have happened.
Jimmy154 said:
A preamp is a transistor, Integrated Circuit chip, or tube device designed to slightly amplify a signal or change it in some way, such as adding bass boost. It then sends the signal to the main amp or another preamp, which might condition the signal some more, (like adding treble boost, or whatever).
Preamp also refers to audio components complete with case using such units. These units can cost many thousands of dollars, or they can be very inexpensive. Even a very inexpensive preamp, competently designed, will sound clear by most people's standards. The extra expense is for that tiny bit of extra clarity.
Your typical stereo receiver consists of a tuner, a preamp, (that's where you plug your phono, CD, tape, etc. into), and a main amp,(which is what you hook your speakers into).
You may read on these pages of units known as passive preamps. That is very advanced stuff, please put it on the side for now. That is a different discussion.
Jimmy154 said:
I have modified the drawing I posted earlier. Get a cord from Radio Shack and hook the two wires up according to the following diagram. I am not guaranteeing that it will be enough to drive your soundcard, but give it a shot. It's cheap and easy enough to do, lol. 😉
Attachments
PS: Make sure that 1 uF capacitor is not an electrolytic. Radio Shack has nonelectrolytic 1 uF capacitors, or else get two 0.47 uF caps and wire them in parallel.
Get a mono cord, 1/8". It can either be 1/8" on one end and bare wires on the other, which is preferred, or get 1/8" on both ends and snip one end. Not expensive either way. There should be two wires in the cord.
Get a mono cord, 1/8". It can either be 1/8" on one end and bare wires on the other, which is preferred, or get 1/8" on both ends and snip one end. Not expensive either way. There should be two wires in the cord.
How close does it have to be to 2.2 Kohm. I made a 2 Kohm resistor is ths okay? And I also read the way you identify a non-electrolyte cap is because it's labeled 105 instead of 1.0 uF, is this true?
Boy, I was way off on my picture if you saw it on page 3.
I found a 1 uF 50V cap but it was written "1 uF." Does this mean it an electrolyte?
Boy, I was way off on my picture if you saw it on page 3.
I found a 1 uF 50V cap but it was written "1 uF." Does this mean it an electrolyte?
There are two types or electrolytic capacitors.
Regualr, (or polarized), and nonpolarized. Onlynonpolarized[/i] electrolytics can be used in a speaker's crossover.
All electrolytics look like little cans. Please see the illustration below:
Sometimes the electrolytics have both leads coming out of one side, instead of each side.
No other type of capacitor comes in a polarized version. Only electrolytics. And you can get nonpolarized electrolytics.
Also, do not get tantalum capacitors under any circumstances.
Regualr, (or polarized), and nonpolarized. Onlynonpolarized[/i] electrolytics can be used in a speaker's crossover.
All electrolytics look like little cans. Please see the illustration below:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Sometimes the electrolytics have both leads coming out of one side, instead of each side.
No other type of capacitor comes in a polarized version. Only electrolytics. And you can get nonpolarized electrolytics.
Also, do not get tantalum capacitors under any circumstances.
This is a more complete post than the previous one. Too late to change it now, so I'll just post it verbatim.
There are two types or electrolytic capacitors.
Regular, (or polarized), and nonpolarized. Only nonpolarized electrolytics can be used in AC circuits such as a a speaker's crossover or here in this application.
All electrolytics look like little cans. Please see the illustration below:
Sometimes the electrolytics have both leads coming out of one side, instead of each side.
No other type of capacitor comes in a polarized version. Only electrolytics. And you can get nonpolarized electrolytics.
Also, do not get tantalum capacitors under any circumstances.
The advantages of electrolytics is that you can get very high value of capacitance, such as 100 uF, 1,000 uF, or even higher. However, for audio circuits, we like to use other types of capacitors if we can-they're better. But sometimes the capacitor value necessary is so high, we have to use electrolytics.
This is not one of those times. Get a nonelectrolytic, nontantalum 1 uF capacitor.
There are two types or electrolytic capacitors.
Regular, (or polarized), and nonpolarized. Only nonpolarized electrolytics can be used in AC circuits such as a a speaker's crossover or here in this application.
All electrolytics look like little cans. Please see the illustration below:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Sometimes the electrolytics have both leads coming out of one side, instead of each side.
No other type of capacitor comes in a polarized version. Only electrolytics. And you can get nonpolarized electrolytics.
Also, do not get tantalum capacitors under any circumstances.
The advantages of electrolytics is that you can get very high value of capacitance, such as 100 uF, 1,000 uF, or even higher. However, for audio circuits, we like to use other types of capacitors if we can-they're better. But sometimes the capacitor value necessary is so high, we have to use electrolytics.
This is not one of those times. Get a nonelectrolytic, nontantalum 1 uF capacitor.
Jimmy:
Go to Radio Shack and get this resistor, #271-1121:
http://www.radioshack.com/images/ProductCatalog/ProductImage/271/271-1121.jpg
Also get this capacitor, #272-1055:
http://www.radioshack.com/images/ProductCatalog/ProductImage/272/272-1055.jpg
Pick up a mono 1/8" cable with open ends or snip off one end, and hook the thing up.
Yes, you can hook up two 1K resistors in series, (one after the other), but at these prices, why bother?
Go to Radio Shack and get this resistor, #271-1121:
http://www.radioshack.com/images/ProductCatalog/ProductImage/271/271-1121.jpg
Also get this capacitor, #272-1055:
http://www.radioshack.com/images/ProductCatalog/ProductImage/272/272-1055.jpg
Pick up a mono 1/8" cable with open ends or snip off one end, and hook the thing up.
Yes, you can hook up two 1K resistors in series, (one after the other), but at these prices, why bother?
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