hmmmm, you added a stage with extra components that have their own distortion component and it lowers distortion? this seems counterintuitive to me. are you sure there are not differences in how you load the dac to make the measurements in each case?
B1 in any configuration is a single ended circuit that owes to add distortion proportionally to level.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Buffalo DAC.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Buffalo+DCB1.
Same output channel, same entry in the meter, same manual input sensitivity +8 dB, same 200 KOh input impedance . same +7 dBu level signal, same cable.
It is not logical but that's what I measure. Are some power noise problems in the DCB1 . Harmonics of 100 Hz. Are lower now but still there. I will try another cable routing.
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An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
The two at a time, Green only Buffalo. White Buffalo + DCB1
That reduction in 3rd harmonic can only be due to not overloading the DAC when the buffer is used.
It appears the DAC cannot supply your receiver load. There is something wrong between the way the DAC and Receiver are talking to each other..
It appears the DAC cannot supply your receiver load. There is something wrong between the way the DAC and Receiver are talking to each other..
Oneclock, tell me what your using for a distortion tool.
I am looking for something that won't break the bank, PC based.
I am looking for something that won't break the bank, PC based.
Distorsion tools I employ: MacBook with iTunes. SPDIF out with Hiface + 8 dB attenuator. (Hiface out 0-5 V. Hiface - 8dB out 0-1 V.).
Before I used iTunes with Pure Music because the noise down 6 dB lower.
Now only iTunes because update earlier this year equaled the PureMusic jitter.
You can get in MAC an improvement of 6-12 dB or less noise floor compared to Foobar PC (Windows XP, never use Vista or Windows 7) and much depends on the configuration, some parameters must be set correctly on Foobar for good output.
I fabricate the test signals to 24 bit with CoolEdit. preferably 48 KHz. (96) is better oscilator than 44,1 KHz.(88) (Less jitter in Hiface).
The real measured distorsion and noise floor value is 8 dBu lower on the scale because the tone is + 8 dBu.
Buffalo DAC with SSLV1.1 has noise floor 2 dB. better than DAC1 because has less jitter.
Bechmark DAC1 jitter J test.
Buffalo DAC + SSLV1.1 jitter J test.
Before I used iTunes with Pure Music because the noise down 6 dB lower.
Now only iTunes because update earlier this year equaled the PureMusic jitter.
You can get in MAC an improvement of 6-12 dB or less noise floor compared to Foobar PC (Windows XP, never use Vista or Windows 7) and much depends on the configuration, some parameters must be set correctly on Foobar for good output.
I fabricate the test signals to 24 bit with CoolEdit. preferably 48 KHz. (96) is better oscilator than 44,1 KHz.(88) (Less jitter in Hiface).
The real measured distorsion and noise floor value is 8 dBu lower on the scale because the tone is + 8 dBu.
Buffalo DAC with SSLV1.1 has noise floor 2 dB. better than DAC1 because has less jitter.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Bechmark DAC1 jitter J test.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Buffalo DAC + SSLV1.1 jitter J test.
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I changed the I / V stage of DAC by legato I/V.
I suppose that the above measures would be a bad connection of the cable, now the two audio cables are soldered together before putting in the connector.
Now measure normal things, the distortion DCB1 is now equal, no less than only buffalo. 😱
I suppose that the above measures would be a bad connection of the cable, now the two audio cables are soldered together before putting in the connector.
Now measure normal things, the distortion DCB1 is now equal, no less than only buffalo. 😱
I was not able to find the G6H 12V Relay... Can I use OMRON G2VN-234PH 5VDC relay instead ?
They don't look like fitting, 4 legs, different. Look for TQ2 12V Nais, NEC EA2 12 also.
Thank you Salas
No board...p2p
I love the V12R in my latest layout so I want to use those.
This build will replace my actual Pedja Buffer.
Apart from the leg configuration, can it be used as is or must some changes be done to the timer circuit ?
Maybe this is not the best thread to post these questions... If not where ?
No board...p2p
I love the V12R in my latest layout so I want to use those.
This build will replace my actual Pedja Buffer.
Apart from the leg configuration, can it be used as is or must some changes be done to the timer circuit ?
Maybe this is not the best thread to post these questions... If not where ?
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Don't know how non tested relays could react, I would stick to those used already. Else, you risk a test.
Looking at the BLUE DCB1 BOM I found two relays:
TQ2-12V Alternative to G6H-2-100-DC12 = 769-TQ2-12V
05v Relay = 551-EA2-5NU
Does it mean I can use 12 or 5V relays ?
TQ2-12V Alternative to G6H-2-100-DC12 = 769-TQ2-12V
05v Relay = 551-EA2-5NU
Does it mean I can use 12 or 5V relays ?
After searching your DCB1 thread I found that I can use a 5v relay but I must use a series resistor. I know that 12v relay are preferred for low power consumption but I have several 5v relays and I would not like to spend any more on this project.
I also read this :That one needs at least 15V input and a 12V reg and assumes a 5V relay if the 600Rs are not shorted. If you got a 12V relay short em.:
In the pdf I see 2 x 600r in parallel... I am puzled.
I also read this :That one needs at least 15V input and a 12V reg and assumes a 5V relay if the 600Rs are not shorted. If you got a 12V relay short em.:
In the pdf I see 2 x 600r in parallel... I am puzled.
Perfect.
I will not continue with these intrusions anymore.
I will let you know the evolutions by e-mail.
Thank you so much.
I will not continue with these intrusions anymore.
I will let you know the evolutions by e-mail.
Thank you so much.
Depending on what relay you gonna use, you simply must find the correct resistor that drops from 12V to 5V for the current its coil draws. And has the correct dissipation spec. Ohm's law, DVM, a couple of tests, & bingo! Yes, a p2p experiment with an existing outboard supply is OT here, may mix things up for the Mez board assembly reader.
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