Hmm... so pot can't really influence the bass but what you describe as hearing is a really common observation and quite possibly related to the fact that you fixed it yourself.
Never under estimate such observed effects, it does happen a lot.
From a technical perspective the pot is just a resistive element and does not alter the overall frequency response in any way.
Chasing something like the microscopic whine you can hear could be fraught with difficulty, not least because you are now hyper aware of everything and it is quite possible it has always been like this and is just a 'characteristic' of the design. A motorised pot means there is some digital processing going on for the remote receiver and its microprocessor and so it is possible that is being picked up.
An experienced tech might find what the whine is and where and how it originates but it may be inherent to the design and so not fixable in the sense that something is faulty that wasn't before.
Happy listening
Never under estimate such observed effects, it does happen a lot.
From a technical perspective the pot is just a resistive element and does not alter the overall frequency response in any way.
Chasing something like the microscopic whine you can hear could be fraught with difficulty, not least because you are now hyper aware of everything and it is quite possible it has always been like this and is just a 'characteristic' of the design. A motorised pot means there is some digital processing going on for the remote receiver and its microprocessor and so it is possible that is being picked up.
An experienced tech might find what the whine is and where and how it originates but it may be inherent to the design and so not fixable in the sense that something is faulty that wasn't before.
Happy listening
Possible reason for the slight change of sound is that elegantly or not, it is now correctly wired. As mentioned, the other guy had wired one leg of a capacitor onto the body of the POT possibly to get around the broken ground issue.
When last I heard the original POT, the power leads were Nordost as was the IC. I since changed the power to Oyaide and a pure silver IC.
In any event, I am thrilled.
Out of curiosity, have you an idea how much it would cost to make a replacement PCB? This one has seen a lot of assault and battery.
When last I heard the original POT, the power leads were Nordost as was the IC. I since changed the power to Oyaide and a pure silver IC.
In any event, I am thrilled.
Out of curiosity, have you an idea how much it would cost to make a replacement PCB? This one has seen a lot of assault and battery.
I think a new PCB isn't viable tbh.
Although it could be copied and done using free PCB software such as KiCad which would produce what are known as Gerber files that could be sent to a PCB production house it would be an undertaking that only a very keen diy'er would do.
What I can tell you is that the PCB as shown in your pictures could be brought up as new in five minutes.
A cotton bud dipped in meths or isopropyl alcohol would remove all that burnt flux in seconds leaving it 90% perfect. The finishing touch would be to brush on some 'clear conformal coating' which is the posh name for clear lacquer used for PCB production and rework.
The little brown cap I can see in your pictures looks like it connects the body of the pot to ground (via that cap) and that is to provide shielding from stray pickup... so woth looking at... it should be there. It also will help supress noise from the motor on the pot from being picked up by the pot internals.
That said the flux is causing no issues but is just unsightly.
Although it could be copied and done using free PCB software such as KiCad which would produce what are known as Gerber files that could be sent to a PCB production house it would be an undertaking that only a very keen diy'er would do.
What I can tell you is that the PCB as shown in your pictures could be brought up as new in five minutes.
A cotton bud dipped in meths or isopropyl alcohol would remove all that burnt flux in seconds leaving it 90% perfect. The finishing touch would be to brush on some 'clear conformal coating' which is the posh name for clear lacquer used for PCB production and rework.
The little brown cap I can see in your pictures looks like it connects the body of the pot to ground (via that cap) and that is to provide shielding from stray pickup... so woth looking at... it should be there. It also will help supress noise from the motor on the pot from being picked up by the pot internals.
That said the flux is causing no issues but is just unsightly.
Similar problem here with MF pot
Hi, having read through this thread I am happy to note an appropriate replacement pot was sourced by OP for his MF amplifier. Could you please tell me how I can go about buying this pot. Mine is exactly the same 50KAX2 Alps pot with a small black section holding the resistance wiper...the replacements suggested on most sites show one that has a larger blue section.
Also, I would like to know if the replacement pot has a flattened shaft ...my original pot has a flattened shaft which is linked to a longer extension fitted to the volume control knob.
Thanks
Shiv
Hi, having read through this thread I am happy to note an appropriate replacement pot was sourced by OP for his MF amplifier. Could you please tell me how I can go about buying this pot. Mine is exactly the same 50KAX2 Alps pot with a small black section holding the resistance wiper...the replacements suggested on most sites show one that has a larger blue section.
Also, I would like to know if the replacement pot has a flattened shaft ...my original pot has a flattened shaft which is linked to a longer extension fitted to the volume control knob.
Thanks
Shiv
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