Pull the amp out of the heatsink, reinstall the driver board and power the amp up for a few seconds at a time. Which transistors (not the regulators) begin to heat up first?
irf640 irf9640 heat up just in the heat sink and the rest are cold im assuming those would first without the heat sink
Do all of the 9640s heat up equally?
If the 1000 driver board is the same and the 1000 works, dropping it into this amp may help confirm that the problem is on the driver board.
If the 1000 driver board is the same and the 1000 works, dropping it into this amp may help confirm that the problem is on the driver board.
yes all 9640s heat up equally and Ill swap the 1000 driver board in later today to confirm if its working or not and get back to you on what I find out I appreciate all the help thank you
I went ahead and swapped the output board you mentioned cold amp it wasn't popping but by the time I started playing music it started popping again I also notice the red light flashing and the green power light was dimming so while I had the 1000 apart I went ahead put the board out of the 500 into the 1000 I know works and no change it didn't seem to have any loss of sound compared to the 1000's working board and no popping in the 1000
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I got them off of mouser but I believe one set out of the 2 was non compliance I cant remember which one they were the expensive ones tho
Those were the cheaper ones I believe I did recheck them for leakage and they were all OL
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When you checked for leakage, were the transistors out of the circuit and the meter set to ohms (highest range if it's not auto-ranging)?
its auto ranging and they were in the amp at the time im wondering if I should have not put silicone on the rectifiers near the temp sensor also maybe I don't have enough kryptonite on the heat sink that the insulator board was badly burned I only used one sheet
In the board, every output transistor should show leakage.
Kryptonite?
Insulator board?
One sheet?
Kryptonite?
Insulator board?
One sheet?
leakage as in like a short circuit when check cont.
Kryptonite as in the orange plastic looking material you recommended me getting awhile back beings the material (looks like cardboard almost for the insulator) attached to the heat sink rails where there badly burned I put the material between the heat sink rail where it comes in contact with the fets
Kryptonite as in the orange plastic looking material you recommended me getting awhile back beings the material (looks like cardboard almost for the insulator) attached to the heat sink rails where there badly burned I put the material between the heat sink rail where it comes in contact with the fets
Kapton
The cardboard dissipates the pressure so that the transistor lays flat on the sink. It's not an insulator. Cardboard can also be used to compensate for different heights between adjacent components.
You cannot check for leakage with the meter on anything other than resistance. If the meter is set correctly, it should change from OL to something in the mega-ohms when you touch the metal part of the probes with your fingers.
A short could also be considered leakage but leakage isn't a short that generally will show up with the meter set to diode-check or continuity.
The cardboard dissipates the pressure so that the transistor lays flat on the sink. It's not an insulator. Cardboard can also be used to compensate for different heights between adjacent components.
You cannot check for leakage with the meter on anything other than resistance. If the meter is set correctly, it should change from OL to something in the mega-ohms when you touch the metal part of the probes with your fingers.
A short could also be considered leakage but leakage isn't a short that generally will show up with the meter set to diode-check or continuity.
Ok thanks for the information perry I wasn't aware of that is there something I could use then for the heat sink rail for compression are you saying I can use a flat piece of cardboard all the way acrossed the rail to fix the burned up cardboard material?
For the heatsink clamp, I generally recommend the thick cardboard used for the back of notebooks if you can't find anything else. Be sure to remove all of the old material first. A wire-wheel on a grinder removes it the quickest.
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