They are simply better.
Cleaner under 100hz (where a shorting ring won't help you), just make the slot as narrow as you can.
That way you can cross higher if you want.
You can make them sealed, ported, transmission line, whatever.
They sound cleaner. Even audible at lower levels.
A dual 12" 4mm xmax (in a room) 6th order (ported high pass boost to tuning frequency) smoked someones 3 x 10" jl's in his small pickup.
Faster, deeper, cleaner, punchier.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subwoofers/177905-thread-those-interested-ppsl-enclosures.html
see post 56 for the last subs I had.
If I was ever to get another sub, push pull is the only way I'd make it.
Norman
Cleaner under 100hz (where a shorting ring won't help you), just make the slot as narrow as you can.
That way you can cross higher if you want.
You can make them sealed, ported, transmission line, whatever.
They sound cleaner. Even audible at lower levels.
A dual 12" 4mm xmax (in a room) 6th order (ported high pass boost to tuning frequency) smoked someones 3 x 10" jl's in his small pickup.
Faster, deeper, cleaner, punchier.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subwoofers/177905-thread-those-interested-ppsl-enclosures.html
see post 56 for the last subs I had.
If I was ever to get another sub, push pull is the only way I'd make it.
Norman
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Melon is not the only one busy. First pic is two amps that will be done by the end of the day. Second pic is current woofers in box. I have talked to Calvin about a OB ripole, dipole options. HE said my XXLS would go too low in a Ripole, as they add about 10hZ to bottom end. May just throw these in a Sealed PP unless you have other suggestions. Of course i am gong to try them OB with my smaller FR drivers, as they have they efficiency to do pretty well. They are Peerless 830845. Also have some Seas CA22rnx. They have the same linear Xmax as the Peerless. I have wondered how they would sound?
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those rear-cut-outs look smooth and accurate, keep that porn flowing...
Amazing progress, you are an Olympian. Did you line/stuff the box? and Stop making us wait- How does it sound ?
the question is, does it continue liking it for weeks and months. I have found several times that the initial sound is not the sound (it's a Zen thing too).
It's not like you to fail to keep an open mind.
You have been busy - and I can see from the pics that you are a true DIY guy! let us know how the amp works out.
LOL. ok, boxes are worse for midrange, how's that ?
Depending on how you run the full range, I've been tempted for a sealed subwoofer, boosted flat to 20hz (push pull of course).
Running my woofers (subs), if I stuff my port (27hz tuning), my dual 15's should be quicker, but to me it just sound like less deep bass, like 6db less. It didn't sound any "faster" to my ears.
Norman
Depending on how you run the full range, I've been tempted for a sealed subwoofer, boosted flat to 20hz (push pull of course).
Running my woofers (subs), if I stuff my port (27hz tuning), my dual 15's should be quicker, but to me it just sound like less deep bass, like 6db less. It didn't sound any "faster" to my ears.
Norman
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you might be right both ways!! - I just haven't heard enough different types to form my own opinion. I did have a big OB once, but it's hard to remember what my impressions were. I liked it, but it sounded so weak on the bottom end and it beamed so badly at the top end... anyhow I'm going to see what the AN15 sounds like open back. I'll have to give some thoughts of damping around the U-baffle to avoid too much in the way of resonances.
I think you have nailed it absolutely correct.
I did not want to give a lecture about it because I have not had a chance to truely listen properly. I didn't do an A/B it was just my initial feeling (strong feeling).
The smaller baffle seems to create more of a live feeling like having the band in your house.
I am not going to make a judgement though until I really have a chance to listen properly.
At this point in time I just want to get all of my ideas built and measured.
More advice,
After playing music and feeling the cabinet walls, I would also increase the rear and top panels to 1.5" thick also.
Regarding open baffle, you definitely want to use the FAST approach, either a small fullrange with dual woofers or a large fullrange with one woofer (1.5 way), you could of course go nuts and build Nelson's SLOB.
Then get an EQ or build Nelsons bass boost circuit to extend and flatten the bass response. I am not as fearless as Nelson I like to get good bass to 40Hz.
Sometimes being greedy gets you into trouble, if you try and go lower you sometimes end up introducing a whole heap of harmonic distortion that muddies up the whole bass region, but it really depends on how good the woofers are
Once you have heard an open baffle properly designed for flat extended bass response you will be staying up till 4am listening to music. Hahaha
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Wow, it's going to be a heavy speaker if I double up to 1.5"
I wonder if a thinner panel but with lots of bracing on the inside would be equivalent and a lot lighter ?
I'm not really inclined towards additional drivers. The point, for me, is to use a single driver. If I need multiple drivers, I'd not use the AN15" as a starting point at all but a smaller full ranger. Horses for courses. Still, just a thought, still learning !
I wonder if a thinner panel but with lots of bracing on the inside would be equivalent and a lot lighter ?
I'm not really inclined towards additional drivers. The point, for me, is to use a single driver. If I need multiple drivers, I'd not use the AN15" as a starting point at all but a smaller full ranger. Horses for courses. Still, just a thought, still learning !
Yes brace the hell out of it.
Still make the top 1.5" though so you won't need vertical bracing.
You absolutely want the front baffle 1.5" thick
Put in 3 to 5 shelf type braces.
I only put in one because I wanted to copy exactly what Dave has done.
After finishing the box I spoke to Dave about it and he also recommends more bracing, but most people, aren't up for it.
I reckon though if you can do one brace then it is just as easy doing more
Still make the top 1.5" though so you won't need vertical bracing.
You absolutely want the front baffle 1.5" thick
Put in 3 to 5 shelf type braces.
I only put in one because I wanted to copy exactly what Dave has done.
After finishing the box I spoke to Dave about it and he also recommends more bracing, but most people, aren't up for it.
I reckon though if you can do one brace then it is just as easy doing more
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That guy can play piano on a bass guitar better than most people can play a piano on a piano.
Actually there are so many bloody strings I am not sure if it is a bass guitar or an electric guitar, maybe it is not a guitar at all.
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no can do, this is way too heavy. first off, I'm using birch ply not MDF so I'm already way ahead re: stiffness. second, it's too heavy...
I'm going to be the man with braces.
Yes Birch ply is much better. It is not that heavy though doing 1.5" front and top.
Maybe I just don't know my own strength. 🙂
Maybe I just don't know my own strength. 🙂
ah, baffle step needed.
notice you didn't need it for the open baffle, but sealed does go lower.
What's it sound like in quick comparison ?
Norman
notice you didn't need it for the open baffle, but sealed does go lower.
What's it sound like in quick comparison ?
Norman
Here it is full of acoustic foam (Sealed 5.6 Cabinet).
The response is a little smoother in some areas. Mainly 100Hz to 200Hz
The response is a little smoother in some areas. Mainly 100Hz to 200Hz
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It is amazing how good the OB design is.
When you consider the construction TIME and Money saved on building materials you can afford to spend the extra money on really good woofers in a FAST setup. To me it is a no brainer.
I do like the idea of making a ported cabinet with a hump in the response to compensate for baffle step losses though. I also like the idea of the ambience enclosure
It will be interesting to see what the measured response along with the subjective listening tests will be
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