It came off? Did you sand the surface before the coat was applied? What products did you use so far for each coat?
zinser bin primer, then conco water based acrylic enamel. it said 4 hours between coats, so I figured it had been long enough to sand at this point (12+hrs). It's not urethane, it's acrylic, I guess I Misspoke.
conco paint this is the stuff, let me know what you think went wrong.
conco paint this is the stuff, let me know what you think went wrong.
Matt Sounds very much like Latex. Are you sure that its not? Acrylic usually has very good adhesion. I've never had a case where is pealed off like you suggest, except from PVC, which I use to cover my table saw when I spray. But when it does come off, if its cured, its very brittle. Only latex is flexible after it cures.
FYI, I just finished a prototype of a Harper 8. It has an amazingly good response. This would be an ideal surround match for any of the Summa line because it has a virtually identical response to them. It is very small and will be fairly inexpensive - ideal for surounds or small mains. The LF response is quite limited as you would expect from a small driver in a small box. But with multiple subs it would be a very good setup.
FYI, I just finished a prototype of a Harper 8. It has an amazingly good response. This would be an ideal surround match for any of the Summa line because it has a virtually identical response to them. It is very small and will be fairly inexpensive - ideal for surounds or small mains. The LF response is quite limited as you would expect from a small driver in a small box. But with multiple subs it would be a very good setup.
pjpoes said:
Matt From their data sheet:
"Application
Do not apply at air, surface or product
temperatures below 50°F or when air or surface
temperatures may drop below 50°F within 24
hours."
Thats wall paint. I've never had any luck with paint that was intended for walls. You need to stick to the industrial stuff that is intended for products.
Either even if the solvent has evaporated, the paint probably hasn't fully cured yet or that Conco paint is designed for high resilience.
Being wall paint I would suspect that the resilience is the issue. Paint usually never has trouble sticking to walls so thats usually not a design requirement. But it has to be resilient for obviuos reasons.
gedlee said:
To avoid polluting Matt's thread, I'll cut a massively long answer (relatively) short: Yes, I'm working towards trying to make spherical speaker enclosures, but my experience of speaker design (driver selection, crossovers etc.) is way behind my woodworking experience.
However, I'd be quite happy to discuss the possibility of making panels for your speakers. I run a small CNC machine, so it's really down to the practicalities of making parts, and how many you expect to need to be produced over what time. You're welcome to PM me, or mail to sploo AT lineone.net, and we can discuss details.
pjpoes said:
Very sorry to hear that. The pics looked superb - the charcoal shade appeared to really suit the speakers.
The paint use description seemed on par to the Rust-o-leum stuff and also was shown being used in similar industrial situations. I assumed it was of a similar industrial grade. It appears to not be the case.
However, I think there must have been something on that one panel, as it's held up on the other panels considerably better. I think the issue is temperature. I just checked the temperature of the garage and it's 50 degree on the nose near the floor, and more like 57 at around eye level. I'm guessing the paint is going to take 48+ hours to set properly, so lets see if it turns out ok. I'm going to bring them inside to set for a few days before going any farther.
However, I think there must have been something on that one panel, as it's held up on the other panels considerably better. I think the issue is temperature. I just checked the temperature of the garage and it's 50 degree on the nose near the floor, and more like 57 at around eye level. I'm guessing the paint is going to take 48+ hours to set properly, so lets see if it turns out ok. I'm going to bring them inside to set for a few days before going any farther.
Good idea. The temperature in your garage is way too low.
I've read that one of the biggest issues of acrylic paint compared to other binders was it's low abrasion-resistance, but that should be solved with modern acrylic paints. Nevertheless I've had the problem you described with acrylic paint that had less than a week to cure.
I've read that one of the biggest issues of acrylic paint compared to other binders was it's low abrasion-resistance, but that should be solved with modern acrylic paints. Nevertheless I've had the problem you described with acrylic paint that had less than a week to cure.
I also found another document on the companies website that indicated that the carrier was latex. What's the difference between normal household latex paint and water based acrylic enamel?
There is no similarity to the two. If they don't tell you specifically whats in it then its a bad sign. Thats because there are no standard deffinitions of things like "Acryllic-Enamel", etc. You need to find out specically what the binder is and what the solvent is. Otherwise you don't know what you are getting.
I was in a store the other day buying paint and the clerk told me that two paints were the same. I read the label and one was acrylic, by composition, and the other a blend of latex and acrylic. They both claimed the same things on the label. They WERE NOT the same things and would not have worked the same way.
I was in a store the other day buying paint and the clerk told me that two paints were the same. I read the label and one was acrylic, by composition, and the other a blend of latex and acrylic. They both claimed the same things on the label. They WERE NOT the same things and would not have worked the same way.
gedlee said:
...or "latex". That term simply describes a water-based dispersion of polymer particles.
Latex is also a material - a rubber polymer and it yields paint that is very flexible with high resistance to scratching. It's good for walls, cheap, water based, etc., but I would never use it on a speaker cabinet.
How the manufacturer uses the term is anybodies guess.
How the manufacturer uses the term is anybodies guess.
what's that picture supposed to mean. A clown leading a blind man?
Dr. Geddes the crossover parts that arrived seem to have the wrong resistor values. It's possible the schematic I have isn't the most up to date though. My schematic lists a 1.2 ohm resistor on the woofer circuit, but all I have are 2.2 ohm values. Additionally, I have two bags of 2.2, yet none of the resistors on the schematic are that value.
Here is what my schematic says. Rp is 7 ohms, I have no 7 ohm resistors (closest is a 5.6 ohm). Rshu1 is 8 ohm, again, I don't have that value, or anything close to it. Rshu2 is 3 ohms, I don't have that, but I do have the 2.2. Finally Rshu3 is 6.8, but I don't have that. The tweeters Rser is 10 ohms, and I do have that.
Is my schematic wrong/old, or did I get the wrong parts? Please advise. Even if the parts are right, I'm short on resistors. There are 6 resistors total in the circuit, but I only have enough for 5.
Dr. Geddes the crossover parts that arrived seem to have the wrong resistor values. It's possible the schematic I have isn't the most up to date though. My schematic lists a 1.2 ohm resistor on the woofer circuit, but all I have are 2.2 ohm values. Additionally, I have two bags of 2.2, yet none of the resistors on the schematic are that value.
Here is what my schematic says. Rp is 7 ohms, I have no 7 ohm resistors (closest is a 5.6 ohm). Rshu1 is 8 ohm, again, I don't have that value, or anything close to it. Rshu2 is 3 ohms, I don't have that, but I do have the 2.2. Finally Rshu3 is 6.8, but I don't have that. The tweeters Rser is 10 ohms, and I do have that.
Is my schematic wrong/old, or did I get the wrong parts? Please advise. Even if the parts are right, I'm short on resistors. There are 6 resistors total in the circuit, but I only have enough for 5.
Rybaudio said:
The nearfield shows about 100 Hz at -6 dB. These plots are not valide below a few hundred Hz.
pjpoes said:
Its 18" x 9" x 8". I don;t know the final price yet because I haven't priced out the crossover. But the drivers are 1/2 the cost of the Nathans so thats going to drop the cost down to the $300-$400 range. Everything is wall mountable if you build the right wall mounts. We mounted four Summas on the wall in Bangkok.
pjpoes said:
Matt, I'll check the schematic, but what I usually show is the total resistance including the inductor resistance, not the resistor values.
The resistor in the woofer LP is 2.2 not 1.2,
Rshu1 = 3.5
Rshu2 = 3.5
Rshu3 = 5.6
Rp = 6.0 should be 15 watts
Does this look better?
Sometimes Madisound subs values within 10% so see if thats the case.
please check your email Earl, I sent you one concerning all the parts. Some of them are too far off to just be 10%. Also, I can't imagine some of the parts being the result of other parts. Please advise once you look it over. I can send you the schematic you sent me, or you can simply resend one to me with the correct current schematic.