Well I don't have the tools to do good metal work yet, but I have a picture in mind for an open/exposed design using transparent plastic for the top and bottom in a kind of curvy x shape. Similar to that record player, you know the one...
I'm not experienced enough to know if I'm making a bad compromise going away from metal though. Naturally there will be big chunks of metal for the heatsink
I'm not experienced enough to know if I'm making a bad compromise going away from metal though. Naturally there will be big chunks of metal for the heatsink
My first GC's were built in plastic tubes (100 mm soil pipe) although I lined the inside with kitchen foil for shielding.
Wheher you need shielding or not depends on what interference you are susceptible to. I have had one of my amps running here for about four months on a plank of wood with no shielding and with no problem.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Wheher you need shielding or not depends on what interference you are susceptible to. I have had one of my amps running here for about four months on a plank of wood with no shielding and with no problem.
Plastic is OK
Plastic is ok, but if you want to use a metal one, You could get some nonworking stereo components and "gut" the innards from them, and use the case. I did this with an old Kyocera CD Player/ Gainclone (posted on diyaudio here )
Plastic is ok, but if you want to use a metal one, You could get some nonworking stereo components and "gut" the innards from them, and use the case. I did this with an old Kyocera CD Player/ Gainclone (posted on diyaudio here )
Vikash said:
Plastic is OK, as well as wood. As long as there's little RF close to the amp.
Besides the obvious radio emissions from your city broadcasts and how close you are to any transmitting antennas, there's emission from several things. Like computers, fluorescent tubes, monitors, dimmers, motors, etc.
Proper grounding should diminish most of them, as well if you use balanced connections.
So after you build your power amp you should test it by getting your volume up, with no signal, and listening with your ear close to the tweeter. AM radio is easy to identify, but other sources are not.
If you have a scope you could do the same, up to 1MHz, with more accuracy.
If everything is clean go ahead. There was a high-end amplifier made in Switzerland that used an acrylic box. But the supply was in a separate box, if I am not wrong.
Carlos
heres an idea, i was in a physics lecture recently and we were disgussing magnetic and radioactive shielding and i started daydreaming.....
surely the best idea is to make the entire case out of thick lead as this will act as isolation from small vibrations as well as EMPs and alpha,gamma and betta rays! the best possible material,if a little heavy.
surely the best idea is to make the entire case out of thick lead as this will act as isolation from small vibrations as well as EMPs and alpha,gamma and betta rays! the best possible material,if a little heavy.
Honsten: You could call such an amp the Roach since it and it's biological cousins would be the only things to survive a detonation. In fact, with enough lead, it would poison you long before old age made your hearing bad. (heh!)
Vikash: I noticed that you used tangents on the sides but not on the front... is that just to over emphasize the pillars when viewed on the rack?
ensen.
Vikash: I noticed that you used tangents on the sides but not on the front... is that just to over emphasize the pillars when viewed on the rack?
ensen.
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