Thanks for details on mounting issues. Any pictures you could share of your finished work would no doubt be appreciated by the next DIYer following in your footsteps.
It would be best to use both of the 20AWG wires in parallel to minimize wire heating. As long as wires are of the same gauge and length there is no issue with parallel connections. Although in general, it would be cheaper to use just one wire of the appropriate gauge. For example, if they had created the wiring harness with 16AWG but just 4 wires instead of 8.
I'd twist each pair of 2 wires together and terminate them together in the crimp connectors you are using to plug into the existing 1000A power connector.
It would be best to use both of the 20AWG wires in parallel to minimize wire heating. As long as wires are of the same gauge and length there is no issue with parallel connections. Although in general, it would be cheaper to use just one wire of the appropriate gauge. For example, if they had created the wiring harness with 16AWG but just 4 wires instead of 8.
I'd twist each pair of 2 wires together and terminate them together in the crimp connectors you are using to plug into the existing 1000A power connector.
Tried to document a few items to help others. Please read thread for more details. Ask here if you have questions. Thanks for all the help to especially user bolserst!
I replaced the blown 1000A with a 500A since it was readily available. To make this fit, I needed do 3 key things.
1) change input voltage by swapping pins on the connector out of the transformert, picture of connector shown. The input voltage was at around 100vdc and the 500A only supports 85 max if I recall.
2) Drill a new mounting hole since the spacing is smaller. You'll also need new m4 mounting bolts.
3) Rework the 8 pin harness, this can be purchased and I simply doubled up the wires and landed on a single spade connector. Colors mostly match up as well.
I replaced the blown 1000A with a 500A since it was readily available. To make this fit, I needed do 3 key things.
1) change input voltage by swapping pins on the connector out of the transformert, picture of connector shown. The input voltage was at around 100vdc and the 500A only supports 85 max if I recall.
2) Drill a new mounting hole since the spacing is smaller. You'll also need new m4 mounting bolts.
3) Rework the 8 pin harness, this can be purchased and I simply doubled up the wires and landed on a single spade connector. Colors mostly match up as well.
Hello,
I just read this thread and can anyone guess what might be the issue when power amp seem work but no sound output? My ML Descent sub is not output any sound at all somehow. I see the amp powers on as meant to be and can hear the amp is running but no sound output at all. The cables inside seem all connected properly so a bit out of idea what may be the possible situ here. Any idea or suggestion would be great. Thank you very much..
I just read this thread and can anyone guess what might be the issue when power amp seem work but no sound output? My ML Descent sub is not output any sound at all somehow. I see the amp powers on as meant to be and can hear the amp is running but no sound output at all. The cables inside seem all connected properly so a bit out of idea what may be the possible situ here. Any idea or suggestion would be great. Thank you very much..
To be more specific, I think that power supply works but not sure about the power amp module working. Is there a quick way to test if ICE1000A amp module is working? sorry for novice question...
Is it literally no sound (no woofer movement) or just very low sound? In my case, I would need to max out the gain (turned to 10) and it was still pretty weak. I am not aware of how to directly troubleshoot the 1000a, so I just tried to 500a on a whim since it was readily available and saw it mentioned on this thread. I was also under the assumption that I could've returned the 500a to partsexpress had it not fixed the issue, assuming I didn't damage it in the process.
Thank you. I just tested again with max volume and there is tiny bit of movement on woofers (vibration) but could not hear sound.
Sounds similar to mine. The sub "worked" and would light up, and the woofer would move a little at max volume. I'd say give the 500a a shot and see. Perhaps others would be able to share other ways to troubleshoot the existing sub but that's beyond me. Just read through my recent posts and most importantly, swap the pins on the harness from the transformer to lower the input voltage to match the 500a input requirements.
Thank you very much, @Mtnbkr Hugely appreciated.
I just checked PartsExpress and the shipping cost is a bit prohibitive since I am based in Australia. (Shipping costs min $80 when product is $109 so total is US$189.
I found that Sound Imports in EU is also selling Icepower 500A which offers cheaper shipping rate to AU so might go with this route and get the Icepower 500A module with harness cable.
I will report back how it goes and share with others too.
I just checked PartsExpress and the shipping cost is a bit prohibitive since I am based in Australia. (Shipping costs min $80 when product is $109 so total is US$189.
I found that Sound Imports in EU is also selling Icepower 500A which offers cheaper shipping rate to AU so might go with this route and get the Icepower 500A module with harness cable.
I will report back how it goes and share with others too.
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Before embarking on troubleshooting, is this a subwoofer you have used in the past and it recently stopped working? Or is it one you purchased second hand and it did not work when you got it. In particular, might it have come from a country that uses 60Hz mains, and you have 50Hz mains. Martin Logan included a circuit to keep the amp module in standby if it was built for sale in a country with 60Hz mains but was sold or moved to country with 50Hz mains. Fortunately, if this is the case, it is easy to deactivate that circuit.
Thank you for the suggestion. My unit was working fine but stopped. I just checked and it says 230-240v 50Hz unit at the back.
Great! Always best to check the simple things first. From your description, there is high probability that your 1000A amp module is bad. But, if you would like a bit of confirmation before ordering a replacement module here are a couple things you can measure on the module's 8 pin input connector.
1) Look for +12VDC on pin8 relative to ground(pin 3 or 6). This lets you know that the rest of the electronics is telling the amp to turn on.
If it measures close to 0VDC, then something is keeping the amp in standby mode.
2) if test 1) shows +12VDC, then you can move on and look for audio input to the amp module measured at pin 5 relative to ground (pin 3 or 6).
If you have an oscilloscope you could just look at the signal while playing music. If you only have a digital multimeter, you could feed the sub a 50Hz - 100Hz test tone signal and look for something in the neighborhood of 100mVAC to 1VAC as you vary the volume control.
If you have audio signal on pin5 and +12VDC on pin 8 and still almost no output from the woofers, you can safely make the judgement that the 1000A amp module needs replaced.
1) Look for +12VDC on pin8 relative to ground(pin 3 or 6). This lets you know that the rest of the electronics is telling the amp to turn on.
If it measures close to 0VDC, then something is keeping the amp in standby mode.
2) if test 1) shows +12VDC, then you can move on and look for audio input to the amp module measured at pin 5 relative to ground (pin 3 or 6).
If you have an oscilloscope you could just look at the signal while playing music. If you only have a digital multimeter, you could feed the sub a 50Hz - 100Hz test tone signal and look for something in the neighborhood of 100mVAC to 1VAC as you vary the volume control.
If you have audio signal on pin5 and +12VDC on pin 8 and still almost no output from the woofers, you can safely make the judgement that the 1000A amp module needs replaced.
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