Not in the strictest sense. The Pluvia 7.2HD seems to work in similar enclosures. One member here with micro-towers switched from EL70s to Pluvia 7.2s successfully.
jeff
Yes, I did! Actually, 2 of us did it. @von Ah did it too. 😎
Zero regrets. The Pluvia 7.2 has all the shockingly good bass (for a 4") and silky-but-present midrange of the EL70, but much, much better treble. The T/S parameters and dimensions are close enough to EL70 that they are virtually drop-in replacements. Mounting screw pattern is different and stuffing may need to be adjusted (not in my case). One caveat; if you have internal braces that butt right up to the back of your EL70, you will need to shim a couple or 3 mm under the rim of the P7.2 (or shave the brace down somehow) because they are slightly deeper than EL70. For new projects, none of this applies, of course! 🙂
Indeed, I also switched from EL70 to P7HD in my microtowers. Won’t part with them, ever. 
I can't recall whether you went with series or parallel wiring. Originally I went with series because that's how I had the EL70s wired. However, recently I reconfigured to parallel and added a Zobel while I was at it. The speakers sound better this way. I highly recommend it. Both my class D amp and my SET have no issues with this setup. Quite the opposite.
Sure!
It took me a whole thread to figure out (with the generous help of others), but this is what I ended up with https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...-and-driver-rewire-puzzle.406547/post-7534837
As you can see, it works out to a simple 4-ish uF and 4-ish ohms. The exact values are not critical. The exact values for me were determined by available components, which came close enough to calculations. 2 parallel 2.2uF caps (for 4.4uF) and 2 parallel 8R2 (for 4R1). For each pair of drivers, of course. Caps must be bi-polar/non-polar.
