Corian is relatively heavy considering its "plastic". It is very dense but not as heavy as granite. Lots of colours available. Machines easily but makes a mess. I have used it to make a tube amp chassis among other things. You can use Cynoacrylate adhesive "Crazy Glue" for bonding, just make sure the surfaces to be bonded are smooth and adding a little moisture to the bond helps, I usually just exhale on the surface to be bonded then add the glue. Of course as Chrisby wrote there are the "correct" industry type adhesives that are usually used but the "Cyno" holds fairly well but I would not use it for something that my life depended upon🙂
italynstylion said:
Depends on which one... the fierce lion Hannibal could do either, depending on his mood
Very elegant Henkjan!
Cambe, I don't have a cutsheet worked out. I just started with the cut sheet I had made for 1.0 and then trimmed things as I needed.
Dave, I think a pair of v2.0 can be made out of 1 sheet of 4x8 wood. The left and right sides can be made out of the width of the sheet easily. The back plate can be made out of the upper section of the wood now that the rear of the enclosure is shorter than 48" high. Just don't screw up either of the 4 side panels because you can only get 4 of those out of a single sheet of wood. I learned that the hard way.
Cambe, I don't have a cutsheet worked out. I just started with the cut sheet I had made for 1.0 and then trimmed things as I needed.
Dave, I think a pair of v2.0 can be made out of 1 sheet of 4x8 wood. The left and right sides can be made out of the width of the sheet easily. The back plate can be made out of the upper section of the wood now that the rear of the enclosure is shorter than 48" high. Just don't screw up either of the 4 side panels because you can only get 4 of those out of a single sheet of wood. I learned that the hard way.
Henkjan, on the Black Beauties, there, very tidy woodwork! In fact, I'm curious exactly how they're assembled, because I can't seem to find any seems anywhere, at least not anything that would indicate 16mm thick panels. Are they all miter joints? Any in-progress construction pics?
yes, they are miter joints. what I did was lay out the panels on the floor (outside up) then tape it together with what we call "painter's tape" (the paper type tape) flip it over, apply normal white wood glue (spead it out with a brush) and then close the whole thing, apply some more tape where needed, let it dry for 15 minutes, remove the tape and clean any excess glue, and done. (then sand and varnish of course)
I had the panels made by a pro woodworker, he used a CNC router to make them
the trick is to make the angle of the miter just a bit 'lean', so that the outside is certainly tight together
I had the panels made by a pro woodworker, he used a CNC router to make them
the trick is to make the angle of the miter just a bit 'lean', so that the outside is certainly tight togetherAttachments
not from this build, but here are some from someone else's project, I think you'll get the idea from that...tresch said:
Awesome!
I was thinking about doing something just like this, recently, but hadn't thought of the tape idea. Thanks for the pics and everything 😀
I was thinking about doing something just like this, recently, but hadn't thought of the tape idea. Thanks for the pics and everything 😀
italynstylion, thank you for replying to my post. The reason I asked for the cut sheet is because
my Almish woodworker who is going to be building these for me might need it. His children had
to explain that the Lotus v1.0 was a loudspeaker. 😉
I am waiting to hear your listening comments for the v2.0.
😎
my Almish woodworker who is going to be building these for me might need it. His children had
to explain that the Lotus v1.0 was a loudspeaker. 😉
I am waiting to hear your listening comments for the v2.0.
😎
v2.0? 😕 I haven't done one of those. The design hasn't changed since the initial v0.99 plans were published, nor do I have any plans to make any alterations.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Time to plaaaaaay!
I got to tell you, I'm fairly excited to see what the Alpair10 is capable of, if Morpheus is right and all...
Did someone mention the Alpair 10? 😀
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1814937#post1814937
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1814937#post1814937
ROFL....ok Tank. Let us know how the jump program goes.
Scott, when I say V2.0 I'm referring to the modified upper part to eliminate the second void where as the original drawing had the second void on top. It's not really the 2.0 but I'm just trying to convey that it's a bit modified.
tresch said:
for a little extra "torque" on a taped glue joint, you could always try 2" packing tape
Scottmoose said:
Scott, please stop- there isn't enough time to build all of these (or space to store them)
I'm running out of room as well.....
Any word on how the top end is on those Alpair 10's? I'd imagine that the bottom end is pretty fierce but it's the top end I'm worried about. The FR graph looks a little better than the CHR-70 but that seems counter intuitive.
Any word on how the top end is on those Alpair 10's? I'd imagine that the bottom end is pretty fierce but it's the top end I'm worried about. The FR graph looks a little better than the CHR-70 but that seems counter intuitive.
Well, I'd hate to think you didn't have enough choice...
Top end is clean, gentle roll-off so they're smooth, which personally, I like -makes them easy to listen to for extended periods. The bottom end certainly isn't 'fierce.' Plenty of body for a driver of that size & no need for any correction circuits. Lovely unit, my favourite of its type. Much pricier than the entry-level CHR of course, but it's not an expensive unit for what it does.
Top end is clean, gentle roll-off so they're smooth, which personally, I like -makes them easy to listen to for extended periods. The bottom end certainly isn't 'fierce.' Plenty of body for a driver of that size & no need for any correction circuits. Lovely unit, my favourite of its type. Much pricier than the entry-level CHR of course, but it's not an expensive unit for what it does.
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