Slotted ports will work just as well as round holes. The port area would be the same for round or rectangular dimensions. You would use the same port length but you would need to account for the port cover (top panel of the port) thickness when you figure the port length summation.
Some of my designs have the port location away from the bottom of the box. So you have to construct internal port panels to account for that example.
Of course if you need to tweak the port length of a slotted port after the cabinet is assembled then it is not as simple as cutting or extending a slide-in port tube.
Some of my designs have the port location away from the bottom of the box. So you have to construct internal port panels to account for that example.
Of course if you need to tweak the port length of a slotted port after the cabinet is assembled then it is not as simple as cutting or extending a slide-in port tube.
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Any bracing should run vertically for 2 reasons, 1/ you do not want to choke the line with horizontal braces, and 2/any brace should create subpanels with higher ratios of w x l than the panel brieng braced, so height will need to increase (the slot vent has to be added to the bottom), but braces increase width or depth (or both, the x-section needs to remain the same).
Something like this:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
These should be just off-centre.
dave
About the same size as the Pensil7 (WxD), here is what we did.
TL the sides need more bracing than front to back, but putting a brace facing the driver, and we like to brace the driver to the back of the box so this compromise was what we came up with.
With 18mm and about 33% holes, you would increase width or depth by 12mm.
dave
TL the sides need more bracing than front to back, but putting a brace facing the driver, and we like to brace the driver to the back of the box so this compromise was what we came up with.
With 18mm and about 33% holes, you would increase width or depth by 12mm.
dave
I have never been one to design or build enclosures with unneeded complexity such as full length braces or cleats for removable panels unless there are compelling reasons to do so. The DIYer who chooses to build a MLTL can include such features as they please to suit their needs.
The internal width and depth of my Alpair 10 designs span no greater than 7 inches so my experience is that exhaustive bracing is not needed for 18 mm thick material. Also removable panels--especially the rear panel--necessitate excellent box building expertise and sealing. If desired the damping material (placed from the top of the box to just below the driver), can be adjusted via the driver hole. Also I use a terminal plate which allows me to access the wiring or perhaps a baffle step network in the rear of the enclosure. Hence, my bottom line is that elaborate bracing or a removable panel are not needed for this design.
If Planet10 was designing or building his own enclosures, he would likely reach the same conclusions on some of the designs that he sells.
The internal width and depth of my Alpair 10 designs span no greater than 7 inches so my experience is that exhaustive bracing is not needed for 18 mm thick material. Also removable panels--especially the rear panel--necessitate excellent box building expertise and sealing. If desired the damping material (placed from the top of the box to just below the driver), can be adjusted via the driver hole. Also I use a terminal plate which allows me to access the wiring or perhaps a baffle step network in the rear of the enclosure. Hence, my bottom line is that elaborate bracing or a removable panel are not needed for this design.
If Planet10 was designing or building his own enclosures, he would likely reach the same conclusions on some of the designs that he sells.
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I have only heard the Pensil (and FHXL and a cariety of Mar-Kens (have a pair in the living room at the moment).
Jim’s design is certainly smaller than i would have expected, but it shows the strength of how modern modelers have opened up the TL space for a variety of designs.
You’ll just have to build it and form your own opinions. :^)
dave
+1.
This cannot be overemphasized.
The Pensil designs from Scott are done for Mark Audio and some of the features come from them.
All of my designs, even those with no panel having any dimension greater than 7”, have a brace connecting the back of the driver to the back of the box. In Jim’s, the side panels, i would suggest, even with quality 18mm ply, could benefit from some bracing. And none have removable panels.
dave