Mark Audio A12P SuperPensil Buildlog

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I will use this post as a log for the entire build of my SuperPensils.

Plywood Tips




Other Materials

Binding Posts

Speaker Cables

Total Materials Cost: $463.69
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Cut Plan

These are the cuts to be made at the hardware/lumber store for transport. The images depict the layout of the pieces on each sheet.

Sheet #1
  • 37"
  • 37"
  • 9"
  • 9"


Sheet #2
  • 35 1/2"
  • 35 1/2"

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Joined 2001
Paid Member
We use single strands from solid core CAT 5 cable. Preferably plenum grade with teflon insulation.

We use posts with much less metal in them. They are actually hard to find because i guess they look too cheesy to sell via pictures. We order them 200 at a time to get them. Neither Madisound or PE have them. PE has something with the same posts, they do not fit our requirement that the posts don't stick oit (where they can easily be crunched)

Gold Plated Banana 5-Way Speaker Terminal 260-302

These are the same posts but the cup requires a larget hole (we only need 2" holes. harder to get your finders in, but less of the panel isremoved to mount them.

High Power Terminal with Fuse Holder 260-293

Founder of XSA-Labs
Joined 2012
Paid Member
I use solid core wire from home security system wiring which is 4 conductor 22 awg, and I thought that is small so I double two wires ea. I think the 22 awg can handle about 1 amp over typical distances for speakers. Cat5 is 24 awg, even smaller. You like having some resistance in your wires for audio quality?
Btw, the binding posts you show above are the same as what I use except my are nickel plated. I like them.
I use a table saw with a sled. But here's a young man who knows how to get good cuts with a circular saw. RIP GUIDE FOR A SKILL SAW - YouTube

Don't forget that only some of the pieces need to be exact, the overlapping pieces can be left oversize and trimmed with the router.

Never assume that factory edges are really straight. If you want to check it at the store, go use one of their big levels.

Keep it square, measure the diagonals.

Most of all... Have Fun. (and be careful of those fingers)
The larger circular saw was much much better at getting straight cuts compared to a Rockwell VersaCut I had laying around.

I think a custom jig made out of plywood and hardboard is a good alternative to purchasing a sub-par jobsite table saw. A table saw is only as square as the piece that is touching the fence. In order for a table saw to be accurate, you would need a jointer as well. At least the faces of the plywood are flat. :)
ITSTV Makita SP6000K Plunge Cut Circular Saw - YouTube

I got one of the Makita track saw in addition to already having a circular saw metal jig with bearings that rides along a 2"x2" L angle track, a job-site tabs saw, and a sliding compound mitre saw.

My A12P build got postponed and i've yet to use the Makita track saw. The older jig is good at cutting perfectly straight but the circular saw i attached to it isn't so good at getting a perfect right angle cut. I'm hoping the smaller diameter blade of the track saw will be better setup for right angles. My Hitachi contractors table saw isn't a bad one but i still have trouble getting a perfect 90º angle cut. The 10" Dewalt sliding compound mitre saw does perfect cross cuts up to ~12" across.

If happen to be located near Philly, i may be able to help you out.
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