I will use this post as a log for the entire build of my SuperPensils.
Resources
Plywood Tips
Tools
Measurement
Materials
Other Materials
Binding Posts
Speaker Cables
Total Materials Cost: $463.69
Resources
Plywood Tips
Tools
- Titebond III Wood Glue The Best!
- Clamps (Lots!) Seriously, at least 15 clamps for this project.
Circular Saw
Router
Measurement
Materials
- 3/4" Birch 8-ply 4' x 8' Plywood (2x) $92.00
- 5 lbs Polyfill (1x) $34.99
- Mark Audio A12P (2x) $314.00
Other Materials
Binding Posts
- Binding Post Black (2x) $5.70
- Binding Post Red (2x) $5.70
Speaker Cables
- Speaker Cable (5') $9.90
Total Materials Cost: $463.69
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Cut Plan
These are the cuts to be made at the hardware/lumber store for transport. The images depict the layout of the pieces on each sheet.
Sheet #1
Sheet #2
These are the cuts to be made at the hardware/lumber store for transport. The images depict the layout of the pieces on each sheet.
Sheet #1
- 37"
- 37"
- 9"
- 9"

Sheet #2
- 35 1/2"
- 35 1/2"

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Dimensions
Top & Bottom:
18 3/8” x 9” (4x)
Sides:
18 3/8” x 37” (4x)
Back:
9” x 35 1/2” (2x)
Front:
9” x 33” (2x)
Center Brace:
16 7/8” x 35 1/2” (2x)
Right Brace:
4 1/2” x 21 5/16” (2x)
Left Brace:
3 3/4” x 21 5/16” (2x)
Top & Bottom:
18 3/8” x 9” (4x)
Sides:
18 3/8” x 37” (4x)
Back:
9” x 35 1/2” (2x)
Front:
9” x 33” (2x)
Center Brace:
16 7/8” x 35 1/2” (2x)
Right Brace:
4 1/2” x 21 5/16” (2x)
Left Brace:
3 3/4” x 21 5/16” (2x)
Quick Connects Black
Quick Connects Red
13-awg Speaker Cable
The Quick connects are surplus... Mark ships special built quick connects with the A12 for those using overthick speaker cable as you are.
dave
The Quick connects are surplus... Mark ships special built quick connects with the A12 for those using overthick speaker cable as you are.
dave
Thanks for the heads up, I did not know that. I will update the materials list.
Thanks for the heads up, I did not know that. I will update the materials list.
If you haven't bought those things yet, i'd suggest different binding posts too -- and wire.
dave
If you haven't bought those things yet, i'd suggest different binding posts too -- and wire.
dave
I would greatly appreciate the recommendations for binding posts as well as cable. Thanks!
We use single strands from solid core CAT 5 cable. Preferably plenum grade with teflon insulation.
We use posts with much less metal in them. They are actually hard to find because i guess they look too cheesy to sell via pictures. We order them 200 at a time to get them. Neither Madisound or PE have them. PE has something with the same posts, they do not fit our requirement that the posts don't stick oit (where they can easily be crunched)
Gold Plated Banana 5-Way Speaker Terminal 260-302
These are the same posts but the cup requires a larget hole (we only need 2" holes. harder to get your finders in, but less of the panel isremoved to mount them.
High Power Terminal with Fuse Holder 260-293
dave
We use posts with much less metal in them. They are actually hard to find because i guess they look too cheesy to sell via pictures. We order them 200 at a time to get them. Neither Madisound or PE have them. PE has something with the same posts, they do not fit our requirement that the posts don't stick oit (where they can easily be crunched)
Gold Plated Banana 5-Way Speaker Terminal 260-302
These are the same posts but the cup requires a larget hole (we only need 2" holes. harder to get your finders in, but less of the panel isremoved to mount them.
High Power Terminal with Fuse Holder 260-293
dave
Planet10,
I use solid core wire from home security system wiring which is 4 conductor 22 awg, and I thought that is small so I double two wires ea. I think the 22 awg can handle about 1 amp over typical distances for speakers. Cat5 is 24 awg, even smaller. You like having some resistance in your wires for audio quality?
Btw, the binding posts you show above are the same as what I use except my are nickel plated. I like them.
I use solid core wire from home security system wiring which is 4 conductor 22 awg, and I thought that is small so I double two wires ea. I think the 22 awg can handle about 1 amp over typical distances for speakers. Cat5 is 24 awg, even smaller. You like having some resistance in your wires for audio quality?
Btw, the binding posts you show above are the same as what I use except my are nickel plated. I like them.
ou like having some resistance in your wires for audio quality?
The extra resistance is immaterial once you factor in the voice coil resistance. What is important is pure, skinny & solid.
dave
So you take the wires out of the cat5 sheath and untwist them then? As they are unshielded twisted pair. Why is skinny important? I know they use good quality copper in those.
We pull a pair out and use that. Sometimes we'll pull that apart and either makea spaced flat cable or a spiral cable.
Ideally all of the audio signal is in the field around the wire, and not in the metal.
dave
Ideally all of the audio signal is in the field around the wire, and not in the metal.
dave
So couple of tips, never have the pieces cut at Lowes. I have been working on getting it square all day. The good news is I am succeeding. The speakers will be 36 3/4" tall, so I list about 1/4" of height in the process.
Final conclusion, I need all of the tools. 🙂
Final conclusion, I need all of the tools. 🙂
What does everyone else do for the main cuts? A job site saw can really do cross-cuts well... We have tried a circular saw with a Kreg Rip-Cut tool, it is OK at best.
I use a table saw with a sled. But here's a young man who knows how to get good cuts with a circular saw. RIP GUIDE FOR A SKILL SAW - YouTube
Don't forget that only some of the pieces need to be exact, the overlapping pieces can be left oversize and trimmed with the router.
Never assume that factory edges are really straight. If you want to check it at the store, go use one of their big levels.
Keep it square, measure the diagonals.
Most of all... Have Fun. (and be careful of those fingers)
Don't forget that only some of the pieces need to be exact, the overlapping pieces can be left oversize and trimmed with the router.
Never assume that factory edges are really straight. If you want to check it at the store, go use one of their big levels.
Keep it square, measure the diagonals.
Most of all... Have Fun. (and be careful of those fingers)
The larger circular saw was much much better at getting straight cuts compared to a Rockwell VersaCut I had laying around.
I think a custom jig made out of plywood and hardboard is a good alternative to purchasing a sub-par jobsite table saw. A table saw is only as square as the piece that is touching the fence. In order for a table saw to be accurate, you would need a jointer as well. At least the faces of the plywood are flat. 🙂
I think a custom jig made out of plywood and hardboard is a good alternative to purchasing a sub-par jobsite table saw. A table saw is only as square as the piece that is touching the fence. In order for a table saw to be accurate, you would need a jointer as well. At least the faces of the plywood are flat. 🙂
Updated the Materials post with some better items. Will add some more options for cables and binding posts as well. I want this to be as complete as possible.
Lots of good info about the Mark Audio A12P drivers that I didn't know when I got started.
Lots of good info about the Mark Audio A12P drivers that I didn't know when I got started.
ITSTV Makita SP6000K Plunge Cut Circular Saw - YouTube
I got one of the Makita track saw in addition to already having a circular saw metal jig with bearings that rides along a 2"x2" L angle track, a job-site tabs saw, and a sliding compound mitre saw.
My A12P build got postponed and i've yet to use the Makita track saw. The older jig is good at cutting perfectly straight but the circular saw i attached to it isn't so good at getting a perfect right angle cut. I'm hoping the smaller diameter blade of the track saw will be better setup for right angles. My Hitachi contractors table saw isn't a bad one but i still have trouble getting a perfect 90º angle cut. The 10" Dewalt sliding compound mitre saw does perfect cross cuts up to ~12" across.
If happen to be located near Philly, i may be able to help you out.
I got one of the Makita track saw in addition to already having a circular saw metal jig with bearings that rides along a 2"x2" L angle track, a job-site tabs saw, and a sliding compound mitre saw.
My A12P build got postponed and i've yet to use the Makita track saw. The older jig is good at cutting perfectly straight but the circular saw i attached to it isn't so good at getting a perfect right angle cut. I'm hoping the smaller diameter blade of the track saw will be better setup for right angles. My Hitachi contractors table saw isn't a bad one but i still have trouble getting a perfect 90º angle cut. The 10" Dewalt sliding compound mitre saw does perfect cross cuts up to ~12" across.
If happen to be located near Philly, i may be able to help you out.
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