Great stuff! Do you plan to replace the pre-amp chip with a discrete circuit at any point? I read somewhere on this forum that their performance is quite limited. The pm17 doesn't have that chip does it?
After modding my 6010ki and comparing it to my dad's pm17ki, I am in no doubt that yours surpasses the latter's performance.
Unfortunately, there's no point me modding my ki further for high power as my speakers go plenty loud enough on less than 20 watts! ~110db 8ohm.
Regards, Lee.
After modding my 6010ki and comparing it to my dad's pm17ki, I am in no doubt that yours surpasses the latter's performance.
Unfortunately, there's no point me modding my ki further for high power as my speakers go plenty loud enough on less than 20 watts! ~110db 8ohm.
Regards, Lee.
hi guys, Im thinking about getting a PM66. Thing is I had one of these
http://www.tnt-audio.com/ampli/pm78e.html
gotta say I ddint realy like it so much to start with and sold it. Anyone compared the PM66 with the PM78?
cheers arthur
http://www.tnt-audio.com/ampli/pm78e.html
gotta say I ddint realy like it so much to start with and sold it. Anyone compared the PM66 with the PM78?
cheers arthur
I am working on the HDAM for the replacement for the chip.
It's not working properly yet. The chip drives the transistors before the idle circuit. If the balance is not 100% then the protection will not allow it to power up.
I have replaced alot of fuses on this project. It's early days yet.
110db is very efficient, the ATC use low efficiency but have a flat impedance. Thats also why they are 300W to compensate lol
Brent
It's not working properly yet. The chip drives the transistors before the idle circuit. If the balance is not 100% then the protection will not allow it to power up.
I have replaced alot of fuses on this project. It's early days yet.
110db is very efficient, the ATC use low efficiency but have a flat impedance. Thats also why they are 300W to compensate lol
Brent
Luke said:hi guys, Im thinking about getting a PM66. Thing is I had one of these
http://www.tnt-audio.com/ampli/pm78e.html
gotta say I ddint realy like it so much to start with and sold it. Anyone compared the PM66 with the PM78?
cheers arthur
The PM78 was based on the bog standard PM66 but they fitted all the loudness , bass and treble controls. All of which was stripped out in the PM66.
The KI has a good TX in it and makes a world of difference in the bass department
Brent
I recall listening to a cd67se , PM66se and chario Syntar 100 speakers in a shop and thinking thats unreal sound for the money. But that was a long time ago. Thing is I didnt like the pm78 at home. Must be worth trying the 66 again🙂
rowemeister said:110db is very efficient, the ATC use low efficiency but have a flat impedance. Thats also why they are 300W to compensate lol
I think he means with 20w he gets 110dB output! 110dB is not a normal efficiency rating for speakers. Over 100 is exceptional.
Your amp sounds like it's kicking out plenty of current. The potency and depth of bass would seem to suggest it can drive the ATCs easily.
Also, good as they are, 300w would proably break the bass drivers at a low frequency!! Or would it.... 😉
Simon
Erm... my mistake, they're 96db 200w.
They are the reason that I am so interested in the HDAM that Brent is trying. My speakers really need a very smooth amp. The sound can grate with a lot of transistor amps - especially my 6010ki, way too bright & harsh. But get it right and they're magical.
They are the reason that I am so interested in the HDAM that Brent is trying. My speakers really need a very smooth amp. The sound can grate with a lot of transistor amps - especially my 6010ki, way too bright & harsh. But get it right and they're magical.
Thomo said:Erm... my mistake, they're 96db 200w.
They are the reason that I am so interested in the HDAM that Brent is trying. My speakers really need a very smooth amp. The sound can grate with a lot of transistor amps - especially my 6010ki, way too bright & harsh. But get it right and they're magical.
96db, wow! That's high enough to go really loud with 8 watts! What make/model are they?
Simon
Here is a tip on the 6010KI. Use BG caps. BG AC on input of power board. Simon will vouch for the sound of the amp.
No nasties at all.
Mind you the second TX made a huge diff.
Brent
No nasties at all.
Mind you the second TX made a huge diff.
Brent
Tannoy Little Gold Monitor - 12" Dual Concentric. Same driver goes into these:
http://www.tannoy.com/Default.asp?Id=4128
Obviously, DIY cabinets are to follow😀
Oh, and I got mine for £120😀
Lee.
http://www.tannoy.com/Default.asp?Id=4128
Obviously, DIY cabinets are to follow😀
Oh, and I got mine for £120😀
Lee.
rowemeister said:Here is a tip on the 6010KI. Use BG caps. BG AC on input of power board. Simon will vouch for the sound of the amp.
No nasties at all.
Mind you the second TX made a huge diff.
Brent
I don't know if this is standard with the pm6010, but mine had two 1000uF 50v Silmics in parallel with main caps. Also one cap near the preamp chip was replaced with 100uf cerafine.
I used the silmics in the preamp and added a 470uF silmic also. Replaced main res caps with 15000uF 80v Dubilier. i also replace other caps with polystyrene. These mods really made big differences to the standard machine but still not enough!
I now use a re-built highly modded Quad405.
Lee.
The PM66KI had 56V 12000uF For Audio caps on the smoothers + cerefine and silmics around the chip.
Where were the 1000uF fitted at the 6010 pcb is the same as the 66. Interested to see where
Brent
Where were the 1000uF fitted at the 6010 pcb is the same as the 66. Interested to see where
Brent
Thomo said:Tannoy Little Gold Monitor - 12" Dual Concentric. Same driver goes into these:
http://www.tannoy.com/Default.asp?Id=4128
Obviously, DIY cabinets are to follow😀
Oh, and I got mine for £120😀
Lee.
Very nice mate.
ah lol
A little tweek.
They are not on 66KI but everything else is the same.
Looks like they drilled the pcb to fit em during the KI upgrade
Brent
A little tweek.
They are not on 66KI but everything else is the same.
Looks like they drilled the pcb to fit em during the KI upgrade
Brent
I think they will have improved the sound there. I have the 2x 15000uF 80v + 100uF 63v + 100nF 250v caps in my quad.
Without the parallel caps the sound was much less....... well less everything really. With the extra caps the sound opened out, transients improved, it was surprising really.
Maybe worth a try in your amp Brent. 2 x 220uF I think is the suggested value for 22000uF!
Lee.
Without the parallel caps the sound was much less....... well less everything really. With the extra caps the sound opened out, transients improved, it was surprising really.
Maybe worth a try in your amp Brent. 2 x 220uF I think is the suggested value for 22000uF!
Lee.
MMMM
Well its a very good posibility. Would be easy to tag across my coke cans.
Ill see what BG are available
Brent
Well its a very good posibility. Would be easy to tag across my coke cans.
Ill see what BG are available
Brent
Thomo said:I think they will have improved the sound there. I have the 2x 15000uF 80v + 100uF 63v + 100nF 250v caps in my quad.
Without the parallel caps the sound was much less....... well less everything really. With the extra caps the sound opened out, transients improved, it was surprising really.
Maybe worth a try in your amp Brent. 2 x 220uF I think is the suggested value for 22000uF!
Lee.
It's surely worth trying but his caps are Silmic!!! Bypassing or snubbing is recommended most highly for cheap caps. I use 8 x BC components 3300u in my chip amp (2 per rail, dual mono) and the sound improved with the use of a snubber across them (100nF+1R). The top end opened up and got more lively.
I started with just one 3300u per rail but added a 2nd lot to improve the bass - and it did! It also killed the top a little, which was cured by the snubber.
Simon
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