linking pin said:
Check this:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=104030&perpage=25&pagenumber=2
There's a reply explaining belts as well...
Boky
Chances are there is a engineering suppliers near you, you just haven't found it yet. The biggest problem is getting them to sell you the O Rings (if you don't know what they are look them up on Google) by mail order as they cost pennies (Euro Cents).
Plumbing shops and DIY centres might have what you want. In UK anyway waste pipe fittings use O rings and you can buy packs of small orings that are perfect for putting round the drive pulleys like I suggested before.
Since I done this my tray hasn't had any problems closing at all.
Plumbing shops and DIY centres might have what you want. In UK anyway waste pipe fittings use O rings and you can buy packs of small orings that are perfect for putting round the drive pulleys like I suggested before.
Since I done this my tray hasn't had any problems closing at all.
Extreme_Boky said:
thanks and yes, I saw that one.
Ran into a little trouble though, seems like the good old CD94MKII has turned off its lights
.This morning I was fiddling around the CD94 trying to determine which belt was causing the trouble when the display went dark.
Now only the pause button light works, all other lights stay dark. The player still works though, inside I see three fuses and they all seems ok.
I'll try to fix this first before I will look for replacement belt(s).
btw,
found this one, looks like there are still a lot of spare parts available for the CD94: https://www.chsinteractive.co.uk/search.html?query=MARANTZ+cd94
You can try Nedis, they sell all sort of repair material:linking pin said:
http://www.nedis.nl/index.php?artl=&mc=10
Login as demo user, go to audio spare parts, audio belts, square belts, and hopefully you find the right dimension. I found belts for my CD94 in a local video parts shop similar to Nedis http://www.hqvideo.hu/home.html).
Good advices. Schematic/SM you will get there:
Marantz CD-94 | Owners Manual, Service Manual, Schematics, Free Download | HiFi Engine
and additional advices there:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digital-source/64941-cd960-belts-specs-service-manual.html
and
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digital-source/60588-marantz-cd94-belts-loading-tray.html
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Hi, I'm currently looking to change the belts on a CD94. Could someone who's done this tell me what needs to be removed to change the clamping unit belts? They look pretty inaccessible at the moment - particular the bottom one! Any help / pointers would be greatly appreciated.
Mike
Mike
I changed the belts some 3 years ago (see above post) and as I remember I needed only a pair of long tweezers. Maybe you can bend a piece of thick copper wire like a hook, this will help you position the belt on the pulley.
Today I changed the belts on two Philips CD960 players.
I used CPC:
AVBELT77 37mm x 1.9mm
AVBELT91 51.5mm x 2mm
On the tray lift side:
• AVBELT77 was good for the smaller 'motor' belt.
• AVBELT77 was good for the 'cam' pulley belt though it might be a bit tight and has to be stretched over the pulleys. This grips well and works well but I was mildly concerned that in time some wear may be caused to the pulleys around the bearing pins and so a slightly longer belt may be better in that respect.
On the tray sliding mechanism:
• AVBELT91 was good for the longer belt. Gripped and worked will with no slippage or squeaking.
• AVBELT77 gripped but the lowest point of the slider (that bolts to the wire and has the rubber buffer in front) overlaps this 1.9mm belt and jams causing the tray to be stopped. My fix was to use the Lindstrom oblique flush cutters and snip off maybe 0.2mm or 0.3mm of the rubber belts square edge so it's more of a triangle belt than square. This then cleared the slider and gripped and worked well. No stretching when under strain. Though if you don't have good cutters a thinner belt would have to be used.
To do it I removed the lid and bottom plate, the on/off switch rod, two cir-clips, the cam pulley, the tray pulley with the wire looped around but held it without letting go and moved the belt off and then put the pulley back on, so the wires loops stayed put and the spring stayed joined. Same for fitting the new belt but take great care to not get grease or oil on the belt.
I cleaned the pulley grooves with Isopropyl alcohol and 'kitchen roll' paper and a small flat screwdriver. With the belts off and the player on, pressing the tray button spins the motors for a few seconds. I used this to clean the smallest pulleys. Then the larger ones manually. Then fit the small belt and spin the motors to clean the smaller combined pulley and the larger ones manually. Saves some time. Be careful to not damage anything or short circuit the player or yourself! If you're not 100% certain that you'll not drop the screwdriver on powered up circuit parts then don't do it!
I cleaned all the old grease off the round rail and applied a very thin layer of 'white grease', I wipe it on with a small piece of kitchen roll as if I was cleaning the rod. Some types of grease on this rod clog and make the tray move slower. I don't know what the Philips / Marantz recommendation is for this.
On the other side with the plastic runner, I move some of the existing grease back into the path of the plastic runner or add a small amount of white grease.
At all times be sure to not get any grease onto the new belts.
I used CPC:
AVBELT77 37mm x 1.9mm
AVBELT91 51.5mm x 2mm
On the tray lift side:
• AVBELT77 was good for the smaller 'motor' belt.
• AVBELT77 was good for the 'cam' pulley belt though it might be a bit tight and has to be stretched over the pulleys. This grips well and works well but I was mildly concerned that in time some wear may be caused to the pulleys around the bearing pins and so a slightly longer belt may be better in that respect.
On the tray sliding mechanism:
• AVBELT91 was good for the longer belt. Gripped and worked will with no slippage or squeaking.
• AVBELT77 gripped but the lowest point of the slider (that bolts to the wire and has the rubber buffer in front) overlaps this 1.9mm belt and jams causing the tray to be stopped. My fix was to use the Lindstrom oblique flush cutters and snip off maybe 0.2mm or 0.3mm of the rubber belts square edge so it's more of a triangle belt than square. This then cleared the slider and gripped and worked well. No stretching when under strain. Though if you don't have good cutters a thinner belt would have to be used.
To do it I removed the lid and bottom plate, the on/off switch rod, two cir-clips, the cam pulley, the tray pulley with the wire looped around but held it without letting go and moved the belt off and then put the pulley back on, so the wires loops stayed put and the spring stayed joined. Same for fitting the new belt but take great care to not get grease or oil on the belt.
I cleaned the pulley grooves with Isopropyl alcohol and 'kitchen roll' paper and a small flat screwdriver. With the belts off and the player on, pressing the tray button spins the motors for a few seconds. I used this to clean the smallest pulleys. Then the larger ones manually. Then fit the small belt and spin the motors to clean the smaller combined pulley and the larger ones manually. Saves some time. Be careful to not damage anything or short circuit the player or yourself! If you're not 100% certain that you'll not drop the screwdriver on powered up circuit parts then don't do it!
I cleaned all the old grease off the round rail and applied a very thin layer of 'white grease', I wipe it on with a small piece of kitchen roll as if I was cleaning the rod. Some types of grease on this rod clog and make the tray move slower. I don't know what the Philips / Marantz recommendation is for this.
On the other side with the plastic runner, I move some of the existing grease back into the path of the plastic runner or add a small amount of white grease.
At all times be sure to not get any grease onto the new belts.
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With the tray open I removed the tray pulley with the wire looped around it, but held it without letting go....
You can't do it with the tray closed as when it is, the wire from the back of the tray to the pulley is too short to allow the pulley to come off far enough.
You can't do it with the tray closed as when it is, the wire from the back of the tray to the pulley is too short to allow the pulley to come off far enough.
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Thank you IanAS and all, just followed your advice and did the swap reasonably easily, even if the belts had literally melted on the pulleys.
BTW, I know that much has been written, but any further hint or link for best mods on the unit?
I have got a CD94 Mk I but with TDA 1541A S1 (single crown) swapped by previous owner.
I seem I remember somebody suggested to beef up some of the caps around the DAC to 400uF, and to regulate SAA7220 voltage... but any suggestion is welcome. I also have a separate Monarchy 22B (PCM63K based) DAC and would like to perform a small DAC "battle"...
TIA,
Stefano
I have got a CD94 Mk I but with TDA 1541A S1 (single crown) swapped by previous owner.
I seem I remember somebody suggested to beef up some of the caps around the DAC to 400uF, and to regulate SAA7220 voltage... but any suggestion is welcome. I also have a separate Monarchy 22B (PCM63K based) DAC and would like to perform a small DAC "battle"...
TIA,
Stefano
Attachments
Very differently? As far as I can see the previous owner just swapped some elco with film caps around the two JRC 6216 but nothing major.
Besides the S1, and without yet disconnecting the board, I could only recognize non standard RCA plugs with coaxial cable.. (photo before the vacuum cleaner😉 )
Before doing anything I've yet to finish reading (and hopefully understanding) the giant 650 thread...
Besides the S1, and without yet disconnecting the board, I could only recognize non standard RCA plugs with coaxial cable.. (photo before the vacuum cleaner😉 )
Before doing anything I've yet to finish reading (and hopefully understanding) the giant 650 thread...
Attachments
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Glad my posts regarding the belts were helpful 🙂
I've done 50 man hours of upgrade work to a CD960. There's a lot that can be done to improve their sound. I did a few of them back in the 1990's. I posted some of it on other threads here at DIY. I don't have links to them.
I've done 50 man hours of upgrade work to a CD960. There's a lot that can be done to improve their sound. I did a few of them back in the 1990's. I posted some of it on other threads here at DIY. I don't have links to them.
Absolutely!
This oldie player seems willing to play quite fine to my ears, in my chain actually and temporarily ending into Beyers DT-1990.
Yes I know I posted some too-lazy questions... I'm just reading. First I'm trying to understand what super regulation implement for the 7220...
Thank you again!
This oldie player seems willing to play quite fine to my ears, in my chain actually and temporarily ending into Beyers DT-1990.
Yes I know I posted some too-lazy questions... I'm just reading. First I'm trying to understand what super regulation implement for the 7220...
Thank you again!
This would be better moved to the appropriate thread but I could find that just now.
There are several super regs though might be of use for the 7220. I started with a 7805, and that was better. Then a more elaborate discrete regulator. Now we have more choice.
See the Jung Didden super reg thread: Super Regulator
Going by some graphs made for the regulator 'bake off' which go only up to 100kHz, I would consider a super Teddy Reg, maybe the Sjöström reg. for this purpose, due to this:
not being audio band but 11MHz,
that 7220 board might be drawing a far bit of current, maybe more than the 200mA max of the Jung / Didden, especially if you supply the 1541 as well,
because they are small and will fit in the space at the rear of the 7220 digital board,
they both have excellent PSRR,
You can sink the heat through the side the CD player chassis.
See also this thread for a repair:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digi...s-cd960-cdm1-read-tracks-cds.html#post5128058
There are several super regs though might be of use for the 7220. I started with a 7805, and that was better. Then a more elaborate discrete regulator. Now we have more choice.
See the Jung Didden super reg thread: Super Regulator
Going by some graphs made for the regulator 'bake off' which go only up to 100kHz, I would consider a super Teddy Reg, maybe the Sjöström reg. for this purpose, due to this:
not being audio band but 11MHz,
that 7220 board might be drawing a far bit of current, maybe more than the 200mA max of the Jung / Didden, especially if you supply the 1541 as well,
because they are small and will fit in the space at the rear of the 7220 digital board,
they both have excellent PSRR,
You can sink the heat through the side the CD player chassis.
See also this thread for a repair:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digi...s-cd960-cdm1-read-tracks-cds.html#post5128058
Seems cheaper than super regs, and small and simple to fit, and a lot better in various ways than 7805, 317, but:
It's PSRR is 78dB at 100kHz, whereas the others I mentioned are stated to be about 90dB.
IIRC, and I'm a bit vague on it now, according to the Super Teddy Threads at PinkFish, they were saying that because two FETs are used for the pass devices, they block the noise travelling either way, which would be an advantage for digital chips. Teddy Pardo seems to have some very good test equipment and was talking about the regulators effectiveness at MHz and the sonic improvements they heard.
Opposite to the LT3045, the Jung Didden super reg error amplifier is fed from the output of the pass transistor, which was found to be better sounding.
It's PSRR is 78dB at 100kHz, whereas the others I mentioned are stated to be about 90dB.
IIRC, and I'm a bit vague on it now, according to the Super Teddy Threads at PinkFish, they were saying that because two FETs are used for the pass devices, they block the noise travelling either way, which would be an advantage for digital chips. Teddy Pardo seems to have some very good test equipment and was talking about the regulators effectiveness at MHz and the sonic improvements they heard.
Opposite to the LT3045, the Jung Didden super reg error amplifier is fed from the output of the pass transistor, which was found to be better sounding.
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Was gathering info on super-regulators, did anybody ever try this one?
0.8uV Ultralow noise DAC power supply regulator +-9/12/15V 1.5A*x2 - DIYINHK
0.8uV Ultralow noise DAC power supply regulator +-9/12/15V 1.5A*x2 - DIYINHK