Re: OpAmps sounding
Interesting article about building opamp based headphones amplifiers. Be aware the input impedance of a power amplifier is not near the value of 33 ohm the writer uses to perform his testing.
Regards, Jaap
PinkPanther-2 said:To Malefoda
Hi!
Look at this article:
http://tangentsoft.net/audio/opamps.html
There is enough information on OpAmps sounding. But I must say it's question of taste. The best sounding OpAmps are among OPA627/637, AD8610/20', AD825, AD8065/66 etc. If you have enough pieces of Browndog adaptors and some soldering skills you can make your own choice. Most of OpAmps need to be backed - to be in use at least one week to show their real sound. And be carefull with supply voltage - not all OpAmps are designed for 30V!
P.S. All this is of importance if the rest of your stereo is perfect. Otherwise all your efforts will be buried in artefacts due to bad electrolitic capacitors, ceramic capacitors ferrite coils in crossovers etc.
Interesting article about building opamp based headphones amplifiers. Be aware the input impedance of a power amplifier is not near the value of 33 ohm the writer uses to perform his testing.
Regards, Jaap
rowemeister said:
LOL Why not!!
Always looking for new avenues at work and modding is something I enjoy. On the back of it someone is sending me a Roksan Caspian cd to repair and mod 😉
Brent
You're absolutely right. The contents is enlightning for what results may be expected from different mods. Clearly put, highly recommended for new modders!
Jaap
disco said:
You're absolutely right. The contents is enlightning for what results may be expected from different mods. Clearly put, highly recommended for new modders!
Jaap
😉 Why thank you.
I had input from Simon for the best way to discribe the mods in a clear yet proffesional way.
I hope it goes well and stops people scrapping their CD63 67

Brent
rowemeister said:
😉 Why thank you.
I had input from Simon for the best way to discribe the mods in a clear yet proffesional way.
I hope it goes well and stops people scrapping their CD63 67![]()
Brent
We used the BS a la Audiocom, but less concise and fancy.

Great stuff. 😀
here is how it is now: just a big rubber around the xtal and grounded to a chassis screw.
In fact my listening conditions are varying a lot, according to my son, wife and open/closed doors... I've removed egg boxes 'coz we are about to move in our own house soon, wich has an empty and big room on the 2nd floor with a big space designed for music... 🙂
In fact my listening conditions are varying a lot, according to my son, wife and open/closed doors... I've removed egg boxes 'coz we are about to move in our own house soon, wich has an empty and big room on the 2nd floor with a big space designed for music... 🙂
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Malefoda said:here is how it is now: just a big rubber around the xtal and grounded to a chassis screw.
In fact my listening conditions are varying a lot, according to my son, wife and open/closed doors... I've removed egg boxes 'coz we are about to move in our own house soon, wich has an empty and big room on the 2nd floor with a big space designed for music... 🙂
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Ah, I see. Son eh? You're older than I pictured. Please don't take offence.

Right, I think U260 is ground, that'd be better to solder the can to - much neater and lower impedance/shorter wire.
Si
KI63 - CD skipping during playback
Well, I have been working on resolving
the cd skipping issue with the CDM12. After nearly fully stripping out the CD tray and laser mechanism I think I have found what may be causing a lot of un-necessary skipping. A cheap plastic gear! The laser tracking mechanism works via a worm or roller gear attached to the motor and straight cut gear that drives the laser along a metal slide/guide. From what I can see, the teeth of the cream-coloured two stage straight cut gear that links the motor to the laser slide is very weak and is prone to feathering it seems. On closer inspection and testing it seems that it jams and sticks. When I removed the laser and connected just the motor worm gear and the intermediate straight cut gear I found high-spots or places where the movement was not smooth at all and where it stuck extra force was required to work the gears. On my gear I found three high spots. If I could replace the cream coloured gear I think I may be able to solve my skipping issue. After cleaning the gear and getting the motion as smooth as I could, the skipping has disappeared although I dont know for how long as the gears will begin to feather and hence jam up.🙄
Well if it is indeed this cheap gear I would need to find 5 or 6 to keep as spares or find a better made one.
Why I came to this conclusion was where disks in good condition would skip at certain places (mostly at the same place everytime) during playback. And when I found the high - spots it sort of explained it. If anyone has seen this issue on their CD63 cdm it would be interesting to find out what they did to remedy.
Cheers
Justin
Well, I have been working on resolving

Well if it is indeed this cheap gear I would need to find 5 or 6 to keep as spares or find a better made one.
Why I came to this conclusion was where disks in good condition would skip at certain places (mostly at the same place everytime) during playback. And when I found the high - spots it sort of explained it. If anyone has seen this issue on their CD63 cdm it would be interesting to find out what they did to remedy.
Cheers
Justin
Malefoda
Do as Simon says and use the U260 connection. Also use lighter and thinner wire as thick ridgid wire may transfer vibrations to the xtal can.
Also it appears the crystal is on long legs. If so solder the crystal in as tight as possible. I find this is better. If its still not better remove the large rubber ring. If thats no good try a new crystal.
Brent
Do as Simon says and use the U260 connection. Also use lighter and thinner wire as thick ridgid wire may transfer vibrations to the xtal can.
Also it appears the crystal is on long legs. If so solder the crystal in as tight as possible. I find this is better. If its still not better remove the large rubber ring. If thats no good try a new crystal.
Brent
Ok guys, here I go for a simple thin wire on U260, and fully pull the xtal on the board. whatever a new clock is planned 😉
And yes I'm old 😉 32!
And yes I'm old 😉 32!
Be aware of the heat from your soldering iron when you pull the xtal right down to the board. I would go for a little space - or much better - a decent XO.
Crystal Oscillator.
http://www.tentlabs.com/ProductEntities/XO/XO.html
as DIY on one of these:
http://www.acoustica.org.uk/t/naim/35clockreg.html
(ask Martin to order more boards 😀 )
and you end up with this.
http://www.tentlabs.com/ProductEntities/XO/XO.html
as DIY on one of these:
http://www.acoustica.org.uk/t/naim/35clockreg.html
(ask Martin to order more boards 😀 )
and you end up with this.
Attachments
I've downloaded the "flea" paper, I'll check how to order parts later 😉
Thank you for the links!
Thank you for the links!
rowemeister said:
Red PCB's, must be expensive 😀
Interesting to see what they have done. No doubt its very good but at a large cost!!
I have a burning desire to mod a 17 KI or a CD6000 KI at worst
Brent
I have a burning desire to mod a 17 KI or a CD6000 KI at worst
Brent
rowemeister said:Interesting to see what they have done. No doubt its very good but at a large cost!!
I have a burning desire to mod a 17 KI or a CD6000 KI at worst
Brent
Brent,
Don't think they have exeeded your effort modding the CD63. Some labor intensive mods have no commercial benefits and won't be executed, I guess.
Regards, Jaap
disco said:
Brent,
Don't think they have exeeded your effort modding the CD63. Some labor intensive mods have no commercial benefits and won't be executed, I guess.
Regards, Jaap
Nope mine will sound loads better, no doubt. 😀
Brent
rowemeister said:Audiocom have another mod for the KI "DAKU"
AUDIOCOM DAKU MOD
disco said:Brent,
Don't think they have exeeded your effort modding the CD63. Some labor intensive mods have no commercial benefits and won't be executed, I guess.
Regards, Jaap
Morning people,
Exactly, although it will sound great there's a lot of basic stuff missing, so it can't come close to one like Brents. Resistor changes and small cap changes (all those silver mica or polystyrene), still using op-amps, separate regs for all audio circuits, new sockets, muting circuit, coupling caps, data lines/traces. All that is way too much work, hehe

I have a burning desire to mod a 17 KI or a CD6000 KI at worst
17 KI is a different dac isnt it? Im convinced you can squeeze more out of a 63 or 67 than 6000, would like to hear your experiences but🙂
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