Marantz CD63 & CD67 mods list

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#3,141
Ok, AD8620 seems already a great choice. I try this first, and if the "famous" OPA627 dare reach my hands... then have a try (will put socket). Is it sloder (on the BDog) and plus direct ? No need for something else ? Will it work or do I need to fit something for diffrent specs ?
Another request, it seems the 63 KI has a rubber-grommet around the clock, and it does well for it. Any picture ? In my CD53 the clock is in the air, free to move as it wants... Any pic of the OEM crystal clock?
 
#3,143
Malefoda said:
Ok, AD8620 seems already a great choice. I try this first, and if the "famous" OPA627 dare reach my hands... then have a try (will put socket). Is it sloder (on the BDog) and plus direct ? No need for something else ? Will it work or do I need to fit something for diffrent specs ?
Click to expand...
I think there's need for a capacitor on the Black Dog adapter. Put at least 0,1uF caps as close to the psu pins as possible.
Malefoda said:
Another request, it seems the 63 KI has a rubber-grommet around the clock, and it does well for it. Any picture ? In my CD53 the clock is in the air, free to move as it wants... Any pic of the OEM crystal clock?
Click to expand...
If you have not done it, try soldering a wire to the XTAL and ground it on the upper plane close to it (scratch away some paint). Be careful not to heat up the XTAL too much as it can be damaged.
Afterwards apply some hot glue from a glue pistol to dampen in slightly. This has the same effect as a rubber band.
Regards, Jaap
 
#3,145
rowemeister said:
oooo very nice

Brent
Click to expand...

According to the reviewer the price of 2.500 euro is considered a bargain with respect to the reproduction. If my eyes don't deceive me you get one Mullard E802S, two Audio Note copper caps, lots of BG, Tent clock, three PSUs, two Burr Brown 1704K DACs and the Philips CD Pro. Not bad at all if one wants to spend that money on a player.

Jaap
 
#3,147
disco said:


According to the reviewer the price of 2.500 euro is considered a bargain with respect to the reproduction. If my eyes don't deceive me you get one Mullard E802S, two Audio Note copper caps, lots of BG, Tent clock, three PSUs, two Burr Brown 1704K DACs and the Philips CD Pro. Not bad at all if one wants to spend that money on a player.

Jaap
Click to expand...


I have thought about using a cdpro2, their are a variety of control pcb's available.
But a kit for 2500 euro with relatively little or no warranty, no case, (built your own).
A tad to much for DIY experiments.😀

allan
 
#3,148
SimontY said:
I bet the sound is stunning. Probably almost as good as a modded CD63
Click to expand...
It certainly has good materials in it...

awpagan said:
I have thought about using a cdpro2, their are a variety of control pcb's available.
But a kit for 2500 euro with relatively little or no warranty, no case, (built your own).
A tad to much for DIY experiments.😀

allan
Click to expand...
:att'n: The CDM12 can be replaced by the CD Pro 2, according to this
site
 
#3,149
Here is a pic af a CD67 I have modded for low cost. It also has relay muting.

Brent
 

Attachments

  • cd67 phase 1 & 2 mods (4).jpg
    cd67 phase 1 & 2 mods (4).jpg
    99.3 KB · Views: 410
#3,151
rowemeister said:
Here is a pic af a CD67 I have modded for low cost. It also has relay muting.

Brent
Click to expand...

Panasonic FC 🙂, stock Elna Silmic and Cerafine but what are those bog blue ones on your PSUs?
BrownDogs with what? Still need to match the filters, I guess? Try carbon for the analogue part.
If you have some copper laying around, build an enclosure for the xtal, maybe 2x 10pF polystyrene?

Regards, Jaap
 
#3,153
disco said:


Panasonic FC 🙂, stock Elna Silmic and Cerafine but what are those bog blue ones on your PSUs?
BrownDogs with what? Still need to match the filters, I guess? Try carbon for the analogue part.
If you have some copper laying around, build an enclosure for the xtal, maybe 2x 10pF polystyrene?

Regards, Jaap
Click to expand...

lol

The bog blue ones are infact FC now. I was messing with values and took the picture before I changed those.

The brown dogs have OPA627 OPA132 combo on. All caps are bypassed.

Schottky diodes , 5ppm crystal , damping etc etc

The unit is being sold so i'm not going to great lengths on it and it sounds a hell of a lot better than a stock KI

Brent
 

Attachments

  • cd67 phase 1 & 2 mods (4).jpg
    cd67 phase 1 & 2 mods (4).jpg
    98.3 KB · Views: 436
#3,154
rowemeister said:
lol

The bog blue ones are infact FC now. I was messing with values and took the picture before I changed those.

The brown dogs have OPA627 OPA132 combo on. All caps are bypassed.

Schottky diodes , 5ppm crystal , damping etc etc

The unit is being sold so i'm not going to great lengths on it and it sounds a hell of a lot better than a stock KI

Brent
Click to expand...

Ah, commercial benefits. Making money out of us poor forummers are you? :clown:

When I modelled a 5-15mA PSU I found 470 - 1000uF after the bridge gave best results for ripple reduction. Inserting a common mode inductance of 30 - 40mH and another 470 - 1000 cap reduced the ripple to a few mV.

Jaap
 
#3,160
Hi,
where should I solder the cap ? (V+ and V-)? I have absolutely no knowledge about electronics... and on the PCB nothing to remove except the JRC ?
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


disco said:

I think there's need for a capacitor on the Black Dog adapter. Put at least 0,1uF caps as close to the psu pins as possible.

If you have not done it, try soldering a wire to the XTAL and ground it on the upper plane close to it (scratch away some paint). Be careful not to heat up the XTAL too much as it can be damaged.
Afterwards apply some hot glue from a glue pistol to dampen in slightly. This has the same effect as a rubber band.
Regards, Jaap
Click to expand...

Also, where does the ground wire go on the chassis, is there any good point ? Any screw of the PCB/chassis mounting ?

Thanks for your patience... 🙂
 
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