Just checking... You do have some local decoupling for DAC analogue, right? The saga of Stabby comes to mind.
Ben,can you please be more specific..which caps are the dac decoupling analogue ones?Forgive my ignorance.
+1. All of my 8 mods were fitted with 0.25uF MKP caps to pin 4 and 8. All of them have sonic improvements. Opamps used are either LM 4562HA (metal can), Burson discrete opamps or Audio GD's discrete opamps (Moon, Earth and Sun).
I did try today different capacitors for the lm4562(the silver ones 220nf on picture which i don't know what they are) and they did a very small subttle difference to better SQ.They weren't so bad sounding as the WIMA's????on picture.Can someone confirm if those are original wima's or chinese fake ones,or simply they were in need for more brake in.
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Chinese fakes can be virtually impossible to spot nowadays, but you know, I have tons of these little guys and I've tried them as bypass caps and just hated them every time. I used larger (size-wise) MKP caps on my LM4562HA. Perhaps these little WIMAs are just sonic poison for some reason? I tried them across Black Gates and they sounded just terrible. I don't try to bypass caps like that any more.
Sorry, I don't have schematic handy right now. I'll reply when I have part numbers. Did you remove any caps that you did not replace?
Sorry, I don't have schematic handy right now. I'll reply when I have part numbers. Did you remove any caps that you did not replace?
I can see from your earlier pic that you still have them, and they're CD15/16.
Your RCA looks still attached and I can see wire jumpers where the blocking caps were. Have you disconnected the RCA from the original signal lines?
Your RCA looks still attached and I can see wire jumpers where the blocking caps were. Have you disconnected the RCA from the original signal lines?
All aboard the rollercoaster.
Cool, try doing that! I think you can probably just snip those jumpers for a quick fix and report back. Fingers crossed.
At the end of the day, the CD63/67 sound pretty great in stock form, but are capable of much more with some investment of time and well-executed mods. If your player sounds downright bad after nodding then there could be something wrong. Man, I've had my share of that. My servo secondaries were wired out of phase for ages!
Cool, try doing that! I think you can probably just snip those jumpers for a quick fix and report back. Fingers crossed.
At the end of the day, the CD63/67 sound pretty great in stock form, but are capable of much more with some investment of time and well-executed mods. If your player sounds downright bad after nodding then there could be something wrong. Man, I've had my share of that. My servo secondaries were wired out of phase for ages!
Well everything works as they should.1 thing about this player, at least mine,work every time what ever fooliness i did to it.+1 for that.
Now to sonic results....i am not shure if i want to take it further,because i don't know the upcoming.
From stock form, all veils are removed.Timing is way better than stock and slam attack is better.Base is way much better with deeper notes nicely stopped.
Mids are a bit forward but bigger sounstage and better vocals all over.Highs are still what is bug me...still are agressive and in your face.In some recordings which they are dool sounding...this is ok,but overall not my cup of tea.
Compared to my stock TDA1541 players, the 63 has better slam and notes on base fade more nicely....tda goe's deeper in lows but also feels wooly.
Mids...tda is much better but not that huge difference from stock 63.
And the highs....here tda wins hands down....simply there is no comparison.
Now both of those dacs compared with my LENCO L75 heavily modified.....i prefer to not make any comments for the comparison.....
Thanasis.
Now to sonic results....i am not shure if i want to take it further,because i don't know the upcoming.
From stock form, all veils are removed.Timing is way better than stock and slam attack is better.Base is way much better with deeper notes nicely stopped.
Mids are a bit forward but bigger sounstage and better vocals all over.Highs are still what is bug me...still are agressive and in your face.In some recordings which they are dool sounding...this is ok,but overall not my cup of tea.
Compared to my stock TDA1541 players, the 63 has better slam and notes on base fade more nicely....tda goe's deeper in lows but also feels wooly.
Mids...tda is much better but not that huge difference from stock 63.
And the highs....here tda wins hands down....simply there is no comparison.
Now both of those dacs compared with my LENCO L75 heavily modified.....i prefer to not make any comments for the comparison.....
Thanasis.
charas -
Have you replaced the rectifier diodes with schottkys (11DQ10)? That should give you an improvement, schottkys have faster response.
Most of us have also bypassed the fuses. There is unnecessary voltage drop across them.
Have you replaced the rectifier diodes with schottkys (11DQ10)? That should give you an improvement, schottkys have faster response.
Most of us have also bypassed the fuses. There is unnecessary voltage drop across them.
Those veils were there for a reason. You will get lots of incremental improvements to signal quality upgrading filter components, diodes, decoupling caps, etc., but ultimately you really need to sort your power out and possibly clock it if you want to bring those highs into the fold.
Yes, low jitter clocks on DAC and Servo plus separate regs for 5v are must to take take this player to another level.
stefanom,only d811-814 been changed to mbr1100...rest diodes remain stock and the fuses are shorted as higlander suggested.
+1 😉 When all these basics have been done there will be BIG BIG improvements in SQ
The next on the line would be BIG TXs 🙂
stefanom,i was thinking of restoring the old diodes back.I don't like the sound of the mbr1100...they are kind of agressive sounding.I don't know if this is the sound of the mbr or all kind of shotky's sounding harsh.
Anyone tried different shotky's brand sound?
Anyone tried different shotky's brand sound?
D811-814 are for the servo circuit and the +5V supply to the other circuitries like DAC and decoders etc.
D801-804 are for the opamps and I also recommend you to change these.
From my experience the SQ has some improvements after changing the 8 stock diodes which is more smooth to my ears after changing. None of my 8 mods got aggressive sounding at all. Don't know why yours is different.
I used BYV95A controlled avalanche diodes.
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higlander,are the BYV95A drop in replacenent or i have to add something else on board too?Maby yours sounding smooth to your ears because you haven't marantz own t/x's any more,or maby mbr1100 are different sounding than yours, or simply don't match with the rest of mod's.
Forgot to ask...what about Rubycon MBZ 16V 470UF which i have in hand and Panasonic FC 560UF 25V instead of Rubycon ZLH?Are the ones i have any good and in which position.