No problem Ben 😉
Also with what Ray was saying larger uF caps usually have lower esr which causes oscillation. When it comes to standard type regs I recommend ST ones.
Brent
Also with what Ray was saying larger uF caps usually have lower esr which causes oscillation. When it comes to standard type regs I recommend ST ones.
Brent
I have solid tantalum on the outputs of the offboard regs, then I've wired to the chip supply pins with 470uF NX on digital and FK on analogue. The skip only happens once an hour or so and I've had the lid off a lot lately, so it might just as easily be a dry spot or dust on the runners. Guys, with servo/output PSUs and now a Flea on the DAC, this month has been huge. What next? Servo or decoder?
P.S. - It's like a Christmas tree in there now with 27 LEDs.
P.S. - It's like a Christmas tree in there now with 27 LEDs.
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Hi Ben,
That's great, i'm glad you like the result! Next thing? The DOS of course! 😉
Ray
You actually want the switch off, i.e. no connection. You can just remove it completely unless you want to use the (pointless?) external RC bus. You could test for continuity across the switch terminals first, as it seems odd that it would be stuck open.
Servo clock's installed in quick succession to DAC. Player sounds so good! Huge leap in realism. No nasty surprises on my grungy 90's favourites, but on good recordings the Fleas have pushed the player into a new territory that doesn't sound like anything I've heard. I would believe it was a new format. There's new treble detail, better defining voices and cymbals, but the overall presentation is smooth and lifelike. Skipping seems gone too, oddly. Sod the display for now - screws are IN.
Which link do I cut to take the headphone part out of circuit? I seem to remember seeing a recomendation that some additional caps are added to the rails if you do this? Where do they go and what values uf?
Thanks
Rob.
Thanks
Rob.
Remove c901 and 902 to stop the audio going to the circuit. Remove u271 and 272 to isolate the voltage supplies to the opamp.
Have you got the service manual? You should try to follow the circuit ;-)
Have you got the service manual? You should try to follow the circuit ;-)
903 and 904 are the psu decoupling caps for the opamp. These will already be out of circuit if you do the above. The links I identified remove the +/-12v psu to the opamp and it's decoupling caps (903&4). As I say, take a look at the service manual, it's all there. We'll help you to understand it ;-)
Personally I would always go for a 63SE or KI. They can be pushed much further.
If you do get a 67 get the SE as the chassis is better.
Brent
Seriously, the wife described the clock upgrade as "Lasik for audio". That's big news. I've been modding for about two years now and this is the biggest jump ever. The best thing is that everything sounds good still - I'm listening to Soundgarden 'Superunknown' right now, which I love dearly but is horrible quality. It sounds about the same as normal. Better recordings have jumped a million miles. I've done mods previously where treble has been enhanced and it's been ugly, but this is more like an increase in resolution. The mains hum has got even worse though; it's audible at 12 o'clock on the amp. I really need to sort it out somehow but otherwise I'm loving the sound right now so much.
If you did the clocks first before all the other work the jump would be small. Whats happened now is all the upgrades are working together much better. The servo clocking is a great tweak though.
Do you have any mains running near the output stage (like a tx)?
Brent
Do you have any mains running near the output stage (like a tx)?
Brent