Marantz CD63 & CD67 mods list

At Farnell Ad's are £15 a pop, LM's are £4 a pop. Purse strings are tight unfortunately so it'll have to be the LM's

But thanks for the advice it IS very much appreciated.

Although I'm not really going to do much circuit changes apart from adding a Kwak-C 7 to my 67OSE so would the existing circuits in CD and amp not help the LM's to be a bit forgiving?

Either way surely the LM will still be a great improvement over the std op amps?

Tom
 
Yep, the OPA2604 is a NO GO! I do like the good old OPA132 though. If you're on a tight budget, maybe the OPA2132 is a nice one.

I use an AD8610 and AD8510 on an adapter in my CD67, the 8610 goes after the DAC and the 8510 in the filter section. This one has a big MKT cap soldered on top, for some extra local decoupling. I found one AD8620 has a bit too much 'in your face' sound in my setup.

Ray
 
The SPowers add that something extra, slightly smoother, treble and bass that little bit better. All the upgrades in this dac are more subtle than on a budget item as the dac is already good but on the other hand look how much you have to pay at that price range for something a little bit better.

You can fit the SPowers yourself yes. The pcb comes out easily to work on too.

Brent
 
Remove C813 and fit a very large cap there (10000uF+ 25V). You will have to drill the pcb to do this but it is fairly simple. Swap C814 & C815 for a larger uF cap also.clock the servo and decoder. C134 124 122 120 501 511 510 need changing to something like an oscon (SEPC preferable). C135 138 153 154 need upping in uF too.

Shorting the internal fuses out makes a nice difference if you are up to doing that. You can cut the track between decoder and digital out cct and use a coax wire instead for better shielding of the digital signal.

If clocking then you can remove the +/- regulators that feed the output stage and take the clocks supply from the +21V this way you can improve matters further

Brent
 
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Thanks for the info Brent 😉 got me playing now lol
Just fitted an old Audiocom Superclock 3 to the '63 with its own dedicated supply - running straight into the DAC - wow a huge difference, much crisper and appears to have opened up the soundstage 😀 Will have to mod further now! Will changing the rectifier diodes to faster recovery devices give further improvement?

Cheers
 
C813 has the biggest effect due to it being on the +V rail. This rail has much more demand on it than the -V rail. Usually a 3300uF - 4700uF cap on C814 does a decent job. Keeping both the + and - rails as stable and solid as possible makes a huge difference to these cd player.

Measure the + voltage rail when loading , reading and playing a disc!

Brent
 
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I'm a blatant lurker, trolling for tidbits to demand of Brent and drive him crazy. I have no idea how my 67' sounds in the greater scheme of things but this will be the fifth time it's been to the Rowemeister alchemical man-cave, so you can probably judge better than I (musn't forget Ray's DOS board!) What am I hoping to achieve? (besides debtors prison and a stay in Bedlam) More Bass control and definition, sweeter midrange, less grain (=more S'regs) and above all a more holographic sound-stage. In short, a silk purse from a sow's ear. I'm a hopeless romantic but it will not be for want of trying! I only wish it didn't LOOK like a sow's ear...
 
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