Thanks Ray, my mistake, pin 44 it is. 5v showing, so OK there. I've checked the tracks too, nothing there. Any other ideas. Cheers
Have you measured the 5V resistors feeding the decoder , dac , servo. They may have gone a little high in value.
Brent
Did you check the other supply-pins as well? That's pins 11 and 15.
Ray
Thanks for the reply. Yes, checked all the pins, all OK according to schematics.
Have you measured the 5V resistors feeding the decoder , dac , servo. They may have gone a little high in value.
Brent
I can see this getting beyond my knowledge quite soon. Can you elaborate. Should I measure volts or ohms. Thanks.
Ohms 😉
Ignoring the error codes. What exactly does the cd player do or not do. Does the disc spin etc
Brent
Ignoring the error codes. What exactly does the cd player do or not do. Does the disc spin etc
Brent
Aaarrrgghhh! No forum emails again!!!
Anyway.. Shep you will always have edge / spittiness etc until you run all the digital chips on their own low noise supplies. I am a believer in you hear your psu's. I get so called high end cdps here at work where the player is based on a cheaper Sony or Philips etc and they make the output better, yes they sound better than the player they're based on but still have that edge, that digital nastiness that can only be removed with psu improvements.
Figures...hell it's only money 😱
The C1 improves quite abit by running it off a dedicated psu, the C1 as standard uses a very low noise 3.3V Vref regulator but benefits from isolation.
Brent
That's why you pay thousands for a decent cd player, they spend more time and effort on the psus for starters (generally)
Brent
Brent
For the moment i'm going to give this a rest and go in another direction. I'm sending my amp back to Wyred to correct a channel imballance and for a caps up-grade. Damn nice folks there, by the way (almost the equal to you lot🙄)
Ohms 😉
Ignoring the error codes. What exactly does the cd player do or not do. Does the disc spin etc
Brent
The disc spins but does not read. All was ok before the decoder mods, but i cannot find any probs with supply or output from that. 😕
Thanks for your help.
Steve
Undo the ribbon to the front pcb. Power up with disc in drive and see if reads and goes into self play after 30 seconds. Of course you wont have any display so you need it connected to your amp if you are not sure if its actually playing
Brent
Brent
Undo the ribbon to the front pcb. Power up with disc in drive and see if reads and goes into self play after 30 seconds. Of course you wont have any display so you need it connected to your amp if you are not sure if its actually playing
Brent
OK, did that. Disc spun up for a few secs, stopped , then spun up again a few secs and stopped. Same as with the ribbon plugged in. Thanks for helping me on this, Steve
That eliminates the front connector.
Can you list exactly what you have done around the dac , decoder & servo. Also if you did it in stages what did you do last.
Brent
Can you list exactly what you have done around the dac , decoder & servo. Also if you did it in stages what did you do last.
Brent
off-topic...got my ebony footsies from HK today. Fast service, well packaged, nicely turned. Sound? I guess I'm getting old... these players are a bitch to ballance of three points and there is some flex in the chassis this way. The price for obsessive tweaking.
I have the strut brace. I don't see how to put a second plate. The bottom of the 67 is all lumps and bumps. How did they make the 63 with a bottom plate? Maybe it's doubled from inside? Actually it's all the add-ons that have put the machine out of ballance, even with four cones. Don't know if it makes much dif. but I like the idea of a chassis sitting squarely on it's feet!
The 2nd plate comes on the higher spec models from the factory and goes outside IIRC.
I never had balance problems with mine. I had one cone under the main transformer at the back centre, and two at the front, widely spaced out. It worked out just fine. Adding plenty of bitumen inside the player will ballast it down and help to prevent skidding.
I never had balance problems with mine. I had one cone under the main transformer at the back centre, and two at the front, widely spaced out. It worked out just fine. Adding plenty of bitumen inside the player will ballast it down and help to prevent skidding.
I've got 2x KI bottom plates fitted on mine sandwiching bitumen with the top plate being bonded with aluminium paste to the chassis 😉
The standard chassis without the 1.5mm steel plate is pretty flimsy, the plate is on the outside and is cut to fit around the raised tx area.
Shep you need a faulty KI so you can swap the tx and drop it all into the new chassis.
Brent
The standard chassis without the 1.5mm steel plate is pretty flimsy, the plate is on the outside and is cut to fit around the raised tx area.
Shep you need a faulty KI so you can swap the tx and drop it all into the new chassis.
Brent
I know, you keep saying that! Regarding the ebony cones: I will go out on a thin limb and say they maybe bring a slight relaxation. On the minus side they are short (my choice) so it's hard to get them in the right place. Also they are alarmingly slippery so the player is a moveable feast! I am following the sellers advice and not attaching them with sticky tape or anything. Makes sort of sense but highly impractical. The way the 67 is made, the weight is not at all evenly ballanced. IF I ever came across a junked KI ( fat chance in the French country-side) I'll be sure to canabalize!
Super glue is the best for feet like that. You don't want micro movement on two surfaces. Super glued feet are also easy enough to get off if required.
Brent
Brent
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