Any pic of this one ?
Any of you ever tried to recase a player ( beside the "no cased Philips" Simon 😉 )?
And all of this ringing iron sheets stuff soundwise?? Test w & w/o anyone?
I've not tried but some people have. No case should be better, or if there is a case it should be hard wood in my opinion. The transformers might want to be shielded in mu-metal and the whole thing covered in copper sheeting to shield the rest, but I can't see that actually being needed.
The case does something bad for the sound.
The case does something bad for the sound.
That's the last 0.01% on an ultimate player like Brent's one if I understand well.
Let's work on a TDA boy instead 😉
Let's work on a TDA boy instead 😉
My chassis has the KI 2mm steel bottom plate bonded to the chassis with Aluminium paste then an layer of bitumen and then another KI 2mm steel bottom plate sandwiching the bitumen. Then oak cone feet. This helped with low bass and makes the chassis very ridged indeed and approx 7mm thick!
My lid has 2 layers of bitumen and the brace has a layer top and bottom making it very dead
Brent
My lid has 2 layers of bitumen and the brace has a layer top and bottom making it very dead
Brent
Last edited:
11.64kg is VERY heavy to pick up in your hands when you're expecting a normal CD player weight...! 😀
LOL I think my ATC is 25Kg. Can't put oak feet on it as it would go through the torlyte platform lol
Brent
Brent
Hi Guys,
I wonder if any you can help me? I'd like to get cracking modding an old 63 Ki that has been festering away in a cupboard for 10 years or so. Only problem is I can't get the bugger to switch on. As soon I power it up, it pops FH11 & FH12. I have have given it a good inspection for any visual damage and can't see any probs, I have also measured the transformer voltages and all these are as they should be but unfortunatley without being able to power it up thats as far as I can go. I was hoping you may have some idea's where I should maybe look first? I have had the player from new and it's never been worked on or modded in anyway. Any help would be much appreciated
Jamie
I wonder if any you can help me? I'd like to get cracking modding an old 63 Ki that has been festering away in a cupboard for 10 years or so. Only problem is I can't get the bugger to switch on. As soon I power it up, it pops FH11 & FH12. I have have given it a good inspection for any visual damage and can't see any probs, I have also measured the transformer voltages and all these are as they should be but unfortunatley without being able to power it up thats as far as I can go. I was hoping you may have some idea's where I should maybe look first? I have had the player from new and it's never been worked on or modded in anyway. Any help would be much appreciated
Jamie
Brace...sorry to come in after the fact! My 67' had no brace but does have the holes in the chassis for one so it would be easy to fit a nice wooden one indeed, although this might interfere with Brent's later mods. Likewise adding weight or bitumen to the bottom would cover up screws that he might need to undo What say you meister? Another question for Brent: how long are the laser assemblies going to be around? They were already hard to find a few years ago.
Hi there,
to BG's fans, any drawback on supplying a LM49720HA with BG std 330µF... 50V? They will be on 15V for now and maybe 18 later.
Thanks,
Matthieu
to BG's fans, any drawback on supplying a LM49720HA with BG std 330µF... 50V? They will be on 15V for now and maybe 18 later.
Thanks,
Matthieu
I've never had a problem with higher voltage than needed! I bet they were expensive Matthieu!!!!
At the opposite end of the scale, anyone ever run Panasonic FC's a couple of volts over what they are rated for??? I know BG's don't seem to mind too much. I suspect they'll not like it long term! Just wondered if anyone tried.
8200uF/16v on the 12v rails pre reg. There is about 18v there with no load!
At the opposite end of the scale, anyone ever run Panasonic FC's a couple of volts over what they are rated for??? I know BG's don't seem to mind too much. I suspect they'll not like it long term! Just wondered if anyone tried.
8200uF/16v on the 12v rails pre reg. There is about 18v there with no load!
Hi Ian,
yep but not that much, but as feeding the opamp used as preamp in my integrated they are needed. (ZA too dry here). I must say I'm not even sure they are burnt-in, sounds seems changing now and then, not stable yet.
And yes I have a concern also for BG 16V on 12V rails, but so far they never failed! As for FC and other that's also something I wanna know, I'm using FM a lot now.
Another usless answer from me 😉 ( non Shepp' t'es pas tout seul... )
edit: Ricardo, yes but 4 weeks after replaced ZA for them they seem not totaly in their best shape, anyway beside the ZA they gave huge bass! They went from Parts Connexion with a discount at that time but as I said, in that place it's a very good cap for ever, prior to (or not) a dedicated regulated 18V supply for the op pamp. They also came with the very last (really, for ever and ever!) 220/16 BG std from PC, a pity.
yep but not that much, but as feeding the opamp used as preamp in my integrated they are needed. (ZA too dry here). I must say I'm not even sure they are burnt-in, sounds seems changing now and then, not stable yet.
And yes I have a concern also for BG 16V on 12V rails, but so far they never failed! As for FC and other that's also something I wanna know, I'm using FM a lot now.
Another usless answer from me 😉 ( non Shepp' t'es pas tout seul... )
edit: Ricardo, yes but 4 weeks after replaced ZA for them they seem not totaly in their best shape, anyway beside the ZA they gave huge bass! They went from Parts Connexion with a discount at that time but as I said, in that place it's a very good cap for ever, prior to (or not) a dedicated regulated 18V supply for the op pamp. They also came with the very last (really, for ever and ever!) 220/16 BG std from PC, a pity.
Last edited: