That's bad news. But the upside is you can start fresh and make it even more beautiful than it was 😱.
Like you say: cut the components close to the PCB and clean up the holes with a vacuum pump. The diodes in the power supply are real track-killers because their leads are thicker. Snip snip!
Be careful not to fry yourself by the way: that heatsink is VERY close to the mains voltage...
Ray
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Thanks for good words guys 🙂
Second change... and second case so I can do quick check or bypass with removable part under, a test case and a second mech, that's nice!
I hope I won't need a second player when I'll try the CD40 😉
Second change... and second case so I can do quick check or bypass with removable part under, a test case and a second mech, that's nice!
I hope I won't need a second player when I'll try the CD40 😉
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Thanks for that, but that's the old Dacmagic (the one designed by John Westlake of Pink Triangle for them) not the new one.
Interesting though! Especially as it appears it has 78xx regulators connected in parallel which generally thought to be very bad. Their outputs fight as they are not exactly the same voltage and one drops out of regulation. I actually have a 5V/1.5A linear PSU which I bought for my Squeezebox that had two 7805 in parallel (one at each end of the heatsink) and one of them died after a few months. I modified the circuit so they were in series instead of parallel and used 7808 -> 7805 (the input rectified was 11V under load) so each reg was dissipating equal power and it's been fine ever since (1 year).
The separate 5V regulated supply for this DAC chip's reference voltage is also thought to be a good idea, but to use an uncompensated NE5534 as a unity-gain buffer questionable.
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I have never seen that before, parallelling regs without any form of load distribution. Either he was under influence of some substance, or he matched those regs by hand 😀
Ray
Ray
They are strange beasts those old Dacmagics.
A lot of effort - everything gold plated, bnc inputs, three mains transformers, twin TDA1305 DACs, AD712 op-amps...
...yet the above anomalies, TDA1315 receiver (rubbish), and he missed the obvious trick of bypassing the DAC's internal I/V op-amp, which is obvious the first time you look at the block diagram on the TDA1305 data sheet.
But I guess we have to bow to his better judgement as he's a pro...
A lot of effort - everything gold plated, bnc inputs, three mains transformers, twin TDA1305 DACs, AD712 op-amps...
...yet the above anomalies, TDA1315 receiver (rubbish), and he missed the obvious trick of bypassing the DAC's internal I/V op-amp, which is obvious the first time you look at the block diagram on the TDA1305 data sheet.
But I guess we have to bow to his better judgement as he's a pro...
"You should never bypass the internal opamps like that, it's the way the manufacturer has intended it" 😀
Ray
Ray
Guys.... I've found it.... and I'm lost.
I've found out this great thread with so much info about my first ever CD-player, which I was about to junk out, but now see enough potential for to be modified and bring me many more happy hours....
But I've lost where to start. Checked out TNT, Ray's page, many more resources online and this thread... but I've completely lost oversight, since you guys are lightyears ahead of me...
Anyway, I would like to tweak my virgin CD63SE, and need some pointers at what brings good improvements for a beginner in DIY audio....
Clock?
Opamps?
Output stage caps?
Dac decoupling caps?
Power supply?
Where to start??
I've found out this great thread with so much info about my first ever CD-player, which I was about to junk out, but now see enough potential for to be modified and bring me many more happy hours....
But I've lost where to start. Checked out TNT, Ray's page, many more resources online and this thread... but I've completely lost oversight, since you guys are lightyears ahead of me...
Anyway, I would like to tweak my virgin CD63SE, and need some pointers at what brings good improvements for a beginner in DIY audio....
Clock?
Opamps?
Output stage caps?
Dac decoupling caps?
Power supply?
Where to start??
My advice: junk it! I'm holding a junkyard, send it to me 🙂
Before we can answer you MUST mind how much you wanna spend...
Right now, if your amp is not modded and normal commrecial stuff, remove the 4 DC blocking caps ( jumpers ). While you're at it remove the 4? transistors around.
Order via National Semi a pair of LM4562 and then bypass the HDAM. Let them breath with LM317/337 regs at +/-12V with something like Panasonic FC or Rubycon ZL there, then Black Gates 220µF/16V at op amps. If you buy BG caps then take some other for Decoder and Dac's PS lines ( 6?), but Rubycon ZL/H ZA will do very good there also.
Find a LM340AT 5V for the main regulator, put a Styroflex 2.2nF at the decoder input side, 2x 4 schottky rectifiers for the -/+ 12V and 5Vs.
That's mainly caps wich are expensive and your player will already be a good one for few work.
Then you should go for a clock and it's dedicated PSU and may separate 5Vs even with 7805s, that's extra work and need more than just parts swap.
Virgin sounds like boring now to me, I'm even scared to be sadly disapointed when back to mine rebuild, I just had an ear to a LP right now and I find it's way better in bass and dynamic... waaaaayyy better... maybe it's because I'm playing CD on a "40 sec. memory -means compressed buffered-" portable CD player?...
Do that and tell us.
Before we can answer you MUST mind how much you wanna spend...
Right now, if your amp is not modded and normal commrecial stuff, remove the 4 DC blocking caps ( jumpers ). While you're at it remove the 4? transistors around.
Order via National Semi a pair of LM4562 and then bypass the HDAM. Let them breath with LM317/337 regs at +/-12V with something like Panasonic FC or Rubycon ZL there, then Black Gates 220µF/16V at op amps. If you buy BG caps then take some other for Decoder and Dac's PS lines ( 6?), but Rubycon ZL/H ZA will do very good there also.
Find a LM340AT 5V for the main regulator, put a Styroflex 2.2nF at the decoder input side, 2x 4 schottky rectifiers for the -/+ 12V and 5Vs.
That's mainly caps wich are expensive and your player will already be a good one for few work.
Then you should go for a clock and it's dedicated PSU and may separate 5Vs even with 7805s, that's extra work and need more than just parts swap.
Virgin sounds like boring now to me, I'm even scared to be sadly disapointed when back to mine rebuild, I just had an ear to a LP right now and I find it's way better in bass and dynamic... waaaaayyy better... maybe it's because I'm playing CD on a "40 sec. memory -means compressed buffered-" portable CD player?...
Do that and tell us.
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Hi Matthieu
I believe you made a perfect sumary of the main mods.
The LM340AT for the main +5v and the styroflex 2.2n at the decoder are really sound openers.
The LM4562 on dedicated regs are very powerfull mods (of course one needs to loose the HDAM and output caps and resistors)
PS: What type of TT are you using ?
Ricardo
I believe you made a perfect sumary of the main mods.
The LM340AT for the main +5v and the styroflex 2.2n at the decoder are really sound openers.
The LM4562 on dedicated regs are very powerfull mods (of course one needs to loose the HDAM and output caps and resistors)
PS: What type of TT are you using ?
Ricardo
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Hi Ricardo,
long time now I have not listened to my CD-53... so I'm switching from that portable player to the TT, still that simple Toshiba http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/analogue-source/144007-turntable-servicing-toshiba-sr-300c.html and its Shure M91ED with NOS needle.
The record can have its influence, it's Rush "Signals", none of my (yes burnt ones... I know... ) so none of the MFSL or Re-Master does that "real world" thing than my LP, a better mastering?
I wish I have Karen Dalton "It's so hard to tell" LP, her voice is so... different... have to try this guys!
My DOSed CD-53 is only a " as far as I can remember " now, even if I remeber well that reclocking the Servo did bring some serious bass that my DM4 can show ( before not trace of bass at all !).
I'll report ASAP.
Matthieu
long time now I have not listened to my CD-53... so I'm switching from that portable player to the TT, still that simple Toshiba http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/analogue-source/144007-turntable-servicing-toshiba-sr-300c.html and its Shure M91ED with NOS needle.
The record can have its influence, it's Rush "Signals", none of my (yes burnt ones... I know... ) so none of the MFSL or Re-Master does that "real world" thing than my LP, a better mastering?
I wish I have Karen Dalton "It's so hard to tell" LP, her voice is so... different... have to try this guys!
My DOSed CD-53 is only a " as far as I can remember " now, even if I remeber well that reclocking the Servo did bring some serious bass that my DM4 can show ( before not trace of bass at all !).
I'll report ASAP.
Matthieu
Malefoda -
Thanks for the tips. Just ordered a sample package of LM4562, and Eddie Wang's LM317/337 kit (recommended by Ray).
Now browsing caps... black gates seem to have disappeared. 220uF/16v are nowhere to be found. Any alternatives recommended for the opamps?
Thanks for the tips. Just ordered a sample package of LM4562, and Eddie Wang's LM317/337 kit (recommended by Ray).
Now browsing caps... black gates seem to have disappeared. 220uF/16v are nowhere to be found. Any alternatives recommended for the opamps?
Talk to Lee... he may be able to help you with the BG.
If not, try getting some Silmic II and please report the results.
My 2C: Do only one mod at the time so you can surely tell where the improvements came from 🙂
Ricardo
If not, try getting some Silmic II and please report the results.
My 2C: Do only one mod at the time so you can surely tell where the improvements came from 🙂
Ricardo
Today lost my virginity, but not without pain...
First removed the transistors and resistors of the muting circuit. Listening test everything ok, sound seems to have changed for the better....
Then removed also the 4 caps. Listening test: no sound. Measured some DC voltage of 3.2mV at the analog outputs, but not sure whether that's the cause (amp did not go into protect or anything).
So I must have removed too much... but what? Resistors?
First removed the transistors and resistors of the muting circuit. Listening test everything ok, sound seems to have changed for the better....
Then removed also the 4 caps. Listening test: no sound. Measured some DC voltage of 3.2mV at the analog outputs, but not sure whether that's the cause (amp did not go into protect or anything).
So I must have removed too much... but what? Resistors?