Did you just replace the original pair of opamps with 1 pair of opa627? If so thats your problem as they are single opamps rather than dual.
If all thats ok and you have used 4 opa627 don't worry about sound op level being lower as too high an op can over load the input of the amp causing listening fatigue. If it is very quiet then something is also wrong.
Brent
If all thats ok and you have used 4 opa627 don't worry about sound op level being lower as too high an op can over load the input of the amp causing listening fatigue. If it is very quiet then something is also wrong.
Brent
When I used 2 x OPA627 the gain worked just fine, same as the original op-amps and others I tried. I think what Brent says sounds spot-on, you're probably using one opamp in place of two. How that even works though I don't know.
Did you use an adapter (e.g. from Browndog)?
627s will sound quite sweet and musical when working properly.
Simon
Did you use an adapter (e.g. from Browndog)?
627s will sound quite sweet and musical when working properly.
Simon
opamp no gain
well I just un soldered the orginal opamps (2 of them) and in the same place I put 2 new opamps (of the 627 varity). nope I did not use 4 because I would then have to have some sort of adaprter right? if I'm reading this post right - since the 627 are single not dual I need 4 of them?
ok I did by some others - what about the 6172 - are they single (I have 2 of them) or what about the 2604 - I have 2 of them as well. any of these dual?
well I just un soldered the orginal opamps (2 of them) and in the same place I put 2 new opamps (of the 627 varity). nope I did not use 4 because I would then have to have some sort of adaprter right? if I'm reading this post right - since the 627 are single not dual I need 4 of them?
ok I did by some others - what about the 6172 - are they single (I have 2 of them) or what about the 2604 - I have 2 of them as well. any of these dual?
Try these,
They will allow 2 singles to be connected to the board. I'd also put IC sockets on the board. That way you can change the opamps without any overheating risk.
OP Amp Adapters
I'm sure if you google for them, you'll find some local.
Also if you google the opamp numbers, you will easily find specs pdf's for each of the opamps mentioned.
Good Luck
They will allow 2 singles to be connected to the board. I'd also put IC sockets on the board. That way you can change the opamps without any overheating risk.
OP Amp Adapters
I'm sure if you google for them, you'll find some local.
Also if you google the opamp numbers, you will easily find specs pdf's for each of the opamps mentioned.
Good Luck
Yes, you'll need an adapter.
2604 are dual and will drop straight in, but they don't sound very nice. Try in sockets though and judge for yourself.
LM6172 are also duals and will work fine with no adapter. These sound half decent IMO.
Simon
2604 are dual and will drop straight in, but they don't sound very nice. Try in sockets though and judge for yourself.
LM6172 are also duals and will work fine with no adapter. These sound half decent IMO.
Simon
Just felt an urge to report.....
Yesterday... and today, I am hearing subsonic sounds from the CD53... never heard before... sound is now uge and perfectly integrated 😉
All this happened after the 680uF 35V BGNx on the preamp psu feeding the new metal can opamp LME49720.
This only happened several weeks after implementation but the difference is so big I believe I should share the experiment.
Metal Can + Nx is a magical combination.
Ricardo
Yesterday... and today, I am hearing subsonic sounds from the CD53... never heard before... sound is now uge and perfectly integrated 😉
All this happened after the 680uF 35V BGNx on the preamp psu feeding the new metal can opamp LME49720.
This only happened several weeks after implementation but the difference is so big I believe I should share the experiment.
Metal Can + Nx is a magical combination.
Ricardo
Hi Ricardo
So the LME49720 are worth the price tag then?
Where are the BG's in the PS area or close to the LME49720 decoupling?
Ian
So the LME49720 are worth the price tag then?
Where are the BG's in the PS area or close to the LME49720 decoupling?
Ian
UV101 said:
Hi Ian
The BGNx are for decoupling the opamp psu lines (+-15V)
This combination is very good.
Ricardo
Hi all.
This is not related to anyones post really but just wanted to know if my modded player looks anygood or if theres anything I could do to tweak ?
Have taken a few pics. It has a superclock 3 v2 and some extra bits.
Think it was modded a few years back by audiocom ? Tenzen mod or something costing around 1k.
just wanted to know a little about it all I guess. Would like to pick a cheap player up on ebay and mod it myself but not sure it would be worth it.
Have uploaded one pic for now but have others of the other boards.
Thanks for any replys
This is not related to anyones post really but just wanted to know if my modded player looks anygood or if theres anything I could do to tweak ?
Have taken a few pics. It has a superclock 3 v2 and some extra bits.
Think it was modded a few years back by audiocom ? Tenzen mod or something costing around 1k.
just wanted to know a little about it all I guess. Would like to pick a cheap player up on ebay and mod it myself but not sure it would be worth it.
Have uploaded one pic for now but have others of the other boards.
Thanks for any replys
Attachments
Guys,
I've spent hours reading back over the thread (Nice car btw Brent! reading back, it sounded like it turned into a Pi$$ing contest that you won! lol).
So now I have a couple of questions!
Star Earth seems to be the way to go, I've introduced what a believe is some ground issues since the external PSU's went active.
When I turn the amp up loud (as in dead speakers if I accidentally hit play) I can hear the clock frequency. If I measure the voltage accross the clocks (either) the freq changes and almost disapears. I added additional grounding from the on board 5V reg and it almost disappeared.
I will create a star point on veroboard near the mains in.
I will link the star point on the board for 5v and 12v to this point
I will link the external PSU ground to the new star
There was talk that the reg, ground is actually a sense? Should this also link to the star or should it connect to the device its supplying? or both?
Also
BG's on the op amps - do the additional 100nf PPS hinder?
Is this just with the BG's?
Also
OpAmp reg should be as close as poss the the OpAmps? (general rule, get the reg as close as poss to what iys supplying). and link out the supply resistors/inductors? Doesn't look like anything else is on this rails so I could just move the regs? If I do does that mean I don't need C805/806 as the regs will use the BG by the OpAmps?
I know this has all been done before but I'm interested in you current opinions.
BTW, anyone tried to polish the metal front back to silver? I'm sure I've seen one somewhere.
Thanks
Ian
I've spent hours reading back over the thread (Nice car btw Brent! reading back, it sounded like it turned into a Pi$$ing contest that you won! lol).
So now I have a couple of questions!
Star Earth seems to be the way to go, I've introduced what a believe is some ground issues since the external PSU's went active.
When I turn the amp up loud (as in dead speakers if I accidentally hit play) I can hear the clock frequency. If I measure the voltage accross the clocks (either) the freq changes and almost disapears. I added additional grounding from the on board 5V reg and it almost disappeared.
I will create a star point on veroboard near the mains in.
I will link the star point on the board for 5v and 12v to this point
I will link the external PSU ground to the new star
There was talk that the reg, ground is actually a sense? Should this also link to the star or should it connect to the device its supplying? or both?
Also
BG's on the op amps - do the additional 100nf PPS hinder?
Is this just with the BG's?
Also
OpAmp reg should be as close as poss the the OpAmps? (general rule, get the reg as close as poss to what iys supplying). and link out the supply resistors/inductors? Doesn't look like anything else is on this rails so I could just move the regs? If I do does that mean I don't need C805/806 as the regs will use the BG by the OpAmps?
I know this has all been done before but I'm interested in you current opinions.
BTW, anyone tried to polish the metal front back to silver? I'm sure I've seen one somewhere.
Thanks
Ian
russm8 said:
OMG. Nice parts but that pricing is ridiculous!!!!.
There is loads more to do to your player, no need to buy another.
Brent
UV101 said:
Are your psus for the clocks external of the cdp. If so sack it off and fitt the tx internally. Simon had this same problem until (after lots of persuasion) we moved the psu internally and the problem went away.
Regs right next to the circuit they are supplying do work better.
I find bypass caps across BG and ZA type caps hinders their performance.
C805 806 are no longer needed.
Brent
Thanks Brent.
Hum not sure what to do really that would change things for the better.
Need some better pics to upload and someones eagle eyes. 🙂
Hum not sure what to do really that would change things for the better.
Need some better pics to upload and someones eagle eyes. 🙂
No eagle-eyes required to tell you the servo chip will be better with its own dedicated regulators (x2), and the decoder probably hasn't been touched either (x2 good regulators for best effect).
The output is via transformers isn't it? This is presumably good, but removing noise from the digital rails will bring big detail gains, and more.
Simon
The output is via transformers isn't it? This is presumably good, but removing noise from the digital rails will bring big detail gains, and more.
Simon
Two regs on the servo brings loads of detail.SimontY said:
Two regs on the decoder brings everything into place... highs get a lot nicer and bass becomes subsonic.
Ricardo
Thanks for the replys. Thing is i dont have a clue whats been touched and whats going where as ive never modded a player before. I did once demo a cd63ki dp and wished now that i had bought it as it was 2nd hand. Sounded very warm and easy to listen to.
So how much of a job would it be to add these regs to the servo chip and decoder. There are 2 invisus ppr2's and 2 other boards that look abit like the invisus. ??? confused
heres a pic of the other boards, well just one of them.
Russ
So how much of a job would it be to add these regs to the servo chip and decoder. There are 2 invisus ppr2's and 2 other boards that look abit like the invisus. ??? confused
heres a pic of the other boards, well just one of them.
Russ
Attachments
russm8 said:
Hi Russ
That looks like a low noise regulator. If you want to post more pictures of each of the boards and where they plug in, we can tell what else can be done. You could always use photobucket or similar to host some more pics.
Def looks like a neat job!
Ian