Marantz CD63 & CD67 mods list

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#10,721
fossil2k said:



I've checked on Farnell, apparently, the CD63 uses SM5872BS while in-stock is SM5872AN. Is there any significant difference between the two?
Click to expand...


SM5872B runs at 386fs = 16.9344MHz
SM5872A runs at 256fs or 512fs = 11.2896MHz or 22.5792MHz.

The S on the end means SOP (surface-mount) the N means DIP.

So the SM5872AN is through-hole and runs at the wrong frequency.

HTH,
Glenn
 
#10,722
Thomo said:

Oh, and the caps I sent you are 4.7uF MKP. I would upgrade all the other areas of your player first with more regs etc and the coax mod, before considering a bypass cap on the mkp.
Click to expand...
Hi Lee

As I was desperately in need of some focus,I arranged a short trip to Algarve (sunny place) with my Wife and Son... When I arrived I had the best gift.... The Mundorfs are beautifull.

Thank you for the fantastic pcb also... Is GND commond to both channels ?

I will start working on the 103 PSU first... will report results soon.

Thank you so very much for your time and work.

stvnharr said:
Teflon caps are large and expensive. They are best suited for signal path applications. Due to their small value, 1uf is about the largest cap, their useful applications are limited. I don't normally bypass electro caps. However, I decided to use a bypass with the BG N cap as it's a signal path cap.
I get my caps from Soniccraft.
Solen, the French company, has now come out with teflon caps, and they may be the best place for you to source them, should you wish to do so.
Also, I have a different player than you. However, the Discrete Output Stage is the same.
Click to expand...
Thank you Steve

This topic is very dear to me... I am very happy because I am reopening the cap issue...... I love caps and will not sotp untill I get the best possible combo at the lowest possible cost.

I really apreciated your sourcing indications.

rowemeister said:


I fully recommend the Mundorf Supreme Silver/Gold but they are quite expensive. I believe worth the money but not until the player is quite a bit more modded to warrant it.

Those MKP are excellent value, similar sound to the BG N with a tad better bass
Click to expand...
Thank you Brent

I must read a lot before I start populating the PCB.... Is there any PCB layout with indications regarding the best component placement ?

Best regards

Ricardo :smash: :cheerful: :happy1:
 
#10,728
Thomo said:
Great stuff. Do you have a link to that supplier please?

Lee.
Click to expand...


Hi,

Since I'm going to strip the CDP apart to change the DAC, I might as well do the mods as recommended in the list found in this thread earlier. There are some parts that need your advise. Some of the chokes need ferrites, what are the size to use? Also, 100nF polyphenylene sulphide capacitors for C611~C614 is hard to get. Any replacement?
 
#10,730
SimontY said:
Fossil,

Before you change the DAC, are you sure the problem isn't the op-amps having some instability?

Simon
Click to expand...


I would get some more opinions before attempting to desolder an smt device like that. As I said, I was just stating my experiences.

I've often found it a good idea to add 100-220nf cap directly onto the opamp supply pins (pins 4&8 I think). Some opamps have been known to oscillate, although I've not experienced this myself. Adding the cap usually improves the sound.

Regards, Lee.
 
#10,731
I agree with Simon - I'd be surprised if the DAC had half-failed in such a way.

If it affects both channels in exactly the same way then it could be the +12V/-12V to the op-amps, or the +5V to the DAC analogue pins.

You can eliminate the DAC from your enquiries by listening to the signal straight from the DAC. Do it after the first RC on each of the four analogue outputs LO/LON/RO/RON, and use a cap (say 10uf, + end to DAC, - end to amp) to connect to your amp.

Easiest way would be to solder in four wires, one to each of those resistors so you can get at them easily with the player running.

If all of these signals sound OK you'd be saving yourself a whole heap of aggro coz it ain't the DAC!

Good luck...

Glenn
 
#10,733
Glenn2 said:
I agree with Simon - I'd be surprised if the DAC had half-failed in such a way.

If it affects both channels in exactly the same way then it could be the +12V/-12V to the op-amps, or the +5V to the DAC analogue pins.

You can eliminate the DAC from your enquiries by listening to the signal straight from the DAC. Do it after the first RC on each of the four analogue outputs LO/LON/RO/RON, and use a cap (say 10uf, + end to DAC, - end to amp) to connect to your amp.

Easiest way would be to solder in four wires, one to each of those resistors so you can get at them easily with the player running.

If all of these signals sound OK you'd be saving yourself a whole heap of aggro coz it ain't the DAC!

Good luck...

Glenn
Click to expand...

Hi,

Thanks for the info. Will try that. Hope I can solve the problem soon.
 
#10,734
Hello All,

First time poster, long time reader!
Excellent forum, grate thread!!!
Planing to do some upgrades on my 67SE, so the first thing I did I improve the chassis
Yesterday I received my Clock DIY kit (picture attached), probably this weekend will put it together and will try to install.
Before I install, I have a question, do I need to remove all parts between pin XT0 and XT1 (on SM5872BS) or just 2 caps (CD03 and 02)?
Also I will need a 12V for the power supply, do you guys will recommend using a separate low noise transformer, or I can take that 12V from the board.

Thank you,
Aram
 
#10,735
Hi and welcome to the thread.

You seem to have the "first-time poster" problems with attachments - no picture ( try reducing the size using PAINT max 100k )

In answer to your questions, remove all parts between Xto and Xti.

You can use the 12v supply as a first off.

It would be better if the clock module was fed from its own regulator or better still from its own transformer and supply/regulator.

Take the mod process slowly. Do not do too many mods at once otherwise if a problem develops, you will have a hard time to decide where it occured.

An important point, as padlifter Simonty will testify, the tracks and pads on the Marantz circuit board are VERY likely to lift and fracture if overheated. Be careful !

Good luck . Try reposting the photo.

Andy
 
#10,737
poynton said:
Hi and welcome to the thread.

Take the mod process slowly. Do not do too many mods at once otherwise if a problem develops, you will have a hard time to decide where it occured.

An important point, as padlifter Simonty will testify, the tracks and pads on the Marantz circuit board are VERY likely to lift and fracture if overheated. Be careful !
Click to expand...

Pads do lift easily... I can testify that also.

SimontY said:
Too true, the pads come up easily if you try to remove a component that hasn't had enough solder removed.

Whilst you can connect a clock from the +12v power rail, this will be polluting the output op-amps and HDAM circuit. If the clock can take 20vdc, you could feed it from before the 12v regulator.
Click to expand...

Using a dedicated psu for the clock is so much better....

If I could, I would use a dedicated psu for every major IC on the board.

Ricardo
 
#10,738
Thomo said:

Oh, and the caps I sent you are 4.7uF MKP. I would upgrade all the other areas of your player first with more regs etc and the coax mod, before considering a bypass cap on the mkp.
Click to expand...
Hi Lee

Just replaced the PSU caps on the meridian 103.

The bass became fuller but with more tightness.

Very good choice the 15000uF Mundorf. Thank you.

Back to the discrete board......

Before I start populating the discrete pcb I need your oppinion on GND connections... can I keep a common GND for both channels or must I separate them... is there any substantial difference ?

Also, I want to use some 470uF 16v BGSTD just after the +-15v spowers. Do you agree with this choice or would you recommend a better solution ?

Regards

Ricardo
 
#10,739
Thanks All for reply's.
Andy, the clock has a regulator on the "same" PCB, so basically all I need is AC 12V, maybe 20V will work as well, I need to look up the specs on regulator LM317.
I was thinking to get transformer like this
http://www.conectro.by/datasheet/48_E130_10.pdf one.
(but from Digi-Key, I have seen them they are in blue casing surface mount), what do you think this will do the (low noise) job?
One more question before I start the installation 🙂 , output from clock can be connected to the IC Xto and Xti in any order?
Thanks.
 
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