paronaram said:Hello,
Seems to me that there is no electronic parts stores (catalog) in US who will carry any of this parts that are listed in mod diagrams/ parts list.
I am referring to passive elements. I checked with Digi-Key, MOUSER, and they all came up with close but not exact components with very low tolerance.
Al tho MOUSER offered me something from EU partner company, but price was very high (shipping) and I need to wait 2-3 weeks.
Can anybody here give me an idea what type (brand, material, casing) of resistors and capacitors are used in this moding, maybe I will able to find something locally.
Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Aram.
I have used the following USA suppliers on Ebay :-
http://stores.ebay.co.uk/West-Flori...W0QQcolZ4QQdirZ1QQfsubZ20668629QQftidZ2QQtZkm
http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Zen-in-Design_W0QQssPageNameZstrkQ3amefsQ3amesstQQtZkm
http://stores.ebay.co.uk/ComponentLand_W0QQssPageNameZstrkQ3amefsQ3amesstQQtZkm
All useful for a variety of components - mica caps, AB resistors etc
Andy
Hi SimonSimontY said:
Electrolytic caps that people on this thread have used:
Elna Cerafine, Elna Silmic, Elna For Audio (all quite good), Black Gate Standard (great value), Black Gate FK, Black Gate PK (good for local decoupling of ICs), Panasonic FC (perhaps not one to put near the output stage), Rubycon ZA (ZL seems quite good too), Sanyo Os-con (for digital rails mainly). Those last 3 you'll find in "normal", industrial suppliers, the rest you need "interesting" shops for.
I am finishing the DOS and will use only one pair of spowers to feed both channels.
I have been looking at your DOS and would like you to explani how you connected the sregs.
Can you please explain the connections of the two caps (RED CAPS) near both sregs in your setup ?
Do you use one cap before and one after each sreg ?
Regards
Ricardo
RCruz said:
Hi Simon
I am finishing the DOS and will use only one pair of spowers to feed both channels.
I have been looking at your DOS and would like you to explani how you connected the sregs.
Can you please explain the connections of the two caps (RED CAPS) near both sregs in your setup ?
Do you use one cap before and one after each sreg ?
Regards
Ricardo
Hi Ricardo,
You're quite right, I have one red cap (220uF Cerafine) before, and another after each regulator. The output from each reg is connected to two wires which go to left and right.
Simon
Thanks guys!
Symon, I was talking about Ray's original mod list for 67SE.
The parts for OUTPUT FILTER, from the soures that I have I could not find anything. Now I have Andy's store list, and I am going look in to it 😉
Symon, I was talking about Ray's original mod list for 67SE.
The parts for OUTPUT FILTER, from the soures that I have I could not find anything. Now I have Andy's store list, and I am going look in to it 😉
paronaram said:Thanks guys!
Symon, I was talking about Ray's original mod list for 67SE.
The parts for OUTPUT FILTER, from the soures that I have I could not find anything. Now I have Andy's store list, and I am going look in to it 😉
Oh ok, good luck 😎
Thank you SimonSimontY said:
Hi Ricardo,
You're quite right, I have one red cap (220uF Cerafine) before, and another after each regulator. The output from each reg is connected to two wires which go to left and right.
You are using only two sregs right ?
I will use only two sregs to feed both channels but I was planning to keep C6 and C7 in both channels so I would have one cap for +15v and one for -15v in each channel after the sregs.
Should I use your setup instead ?
Can I expect a real benefit from using a small 220uF before the sregs ? (My analog PSU uses 2x10000uF 63v Nichicon Gold Tune and seems to sound right with the opamps without a small cap before the sregs)
Am I overreacting ?
Ricardo
Attachments
Just two S Power regulators in mine. Extra caps, so there's one per side, won't hurt.
I'd want to use at least some cap after the regulators, but you needn't use one before them.
Simon
I'd want to use at least some cap after the regulators, but you needn't use one before them.
Simon
Hi SimonSimontY said:Just two S Power regulators in mine. Extra caps, so there's one per side, won't hurt.
I'd want to use at least some cap after the regulators, but you needn't use one before them.
I am taking some time to solder all the parts into the DOS pcb and it is looking good but I believe there might be an issue:
In order to make soldering faster, I am using a liquid to improve solder flow... after soldering anything, I always clean the pcb with a cotton and alcool.... the problem is that some parts of the copper in the pcb are getting very dark (oxidation).
Is there any kind of treatment I should do to the pcb copper to avoid oxidation ?
Can I paint it with something to avoid contact with the air ?
Regards
Ricardo
I polished my pcb with brasso, then treated it with Caig Labs Deoxit. After soldering and testing, you could lacquer it if you want it to stay shiny.
Simon
Simon
Hi SimonSimontY said:I polished my pcb with brasso, then treated it with Caig Labs Deoxit. After soldering and testing, you could lacquer it if you want it to stay shiny.
As I am new to these matters, could you please explain the following:
brasso ?
Caig Labs Deoxit ?
What type of lacquer should I use ?
Ricardo
RCruz said:
Hi Simon
As I am new to these matters, could you please explain the following:
brasso ?
Caig Labs Deoxit ?
What type of lacquer should I use ?
Ricardo
Brasso is a brass cleaner, usually bought in a pot of wadding material, which you use to scrub a surface. When you then clean the Brasso off you get an intense shine. It's what people use on the power pins of their mains plugs and fuses.
Deoxit is a contact enhancer and inhibits oxidisation.
I've no idea about the lacquer as I didn't want to do that to mine and have never used any. The enamel used for inductors or solid core wires would be good, but I'm not sure what it is or where it comes from, sorry!
Simon
available in 400ml aerosol
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=4090956
Andy
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=4090956
Andy
Thank you SimonSimontY said:
Brasso is a brass cleaner, usually bought in a pot of wadding material, which you use to scrub a surface. When you then clean the Brasso off you get an intense shine. It's what people use on the power pins of their mains plugs and fuses.
Deoxit is a contact enhancer and inhibits oxidisation.
I've no idea about the lacquer as I didn't want to do that to mine and have never used any. The enamel used for inductors or solid core wires would be good, but I'm not sure what it is or where it comes from, sorry!
Thank you Andypoynton said:available in 400ml aerosol
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=4090956
Hi SimonSimontY said:
Deoxit is a contact enhancer and inhibits oxidisation.
Where did you source Deoxit ?
I can only find it in France and it is very expensive.
I could try Philips 390CCS.. are they comparable ?
Note:
Here, Brasso is known by it´s OEM brand "Duraglit".. that is why I could not identify it first 😀
Ricardo
Hi Ricardo,
I got my Deoxit from Russ Andrews Hi-Fi Accessories... also very expensive, but it will last a very long time.
Good work on the Brasso/Duraglit 😀
Simon
I got my Deoxit from Russ Andrews Hi-Fi Accessories... also very expensive, but it will last a very long time.
Good work on the Brasso/Duraglit 😀
Simon
Glenn2 said:
Ah, right. Then you've nothing to lose by replacing the DAC I suppose. Good luck.
Just bought the DAC chip for USD18. Will test it out these few days and hopefully will be able to solve my problem.
fossil2k said:
Just bought the DAC chip for USD18. Will test it out these few days and hopefully will be able to solve my problem.
Good luck.
Hope everything is solved as planned.
Ricardo
Marantz Left a track on the PCB specifically for the purpose of bypassing The HDAM Look at R619/620 If you have upgraded your opamps get rid of HDAM presume youve done all the PS and Servo stuff already!
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