Haha, I want in on this FK action now!
But it'll have to wait till I'm listening through headphones more or better speakers so I can hear what's happening.
These 3-way JVCs don't quite have the resolving abilities of my DIY set that I've had to lend out due to being in a small room now..

But it'll have to wait till I'm listening through headphones more or better speakers so I can hear what's happening.
These 3-way JVCs don't quite have the resolving abilities of my DIY set that I've had to lend out due to being in a small room now..
Attachments
Going back to the Mundorfs - the sound is so much cleaner than the BG AC and the Audionote Copper in oil without the loss of any body or soul
It's like there is no cap!
Brent
It's like there is no cap!
Brent
Thank you SimonSimontY said:
I don't mean to be rude, but that's a funny question if you think about it!
The star ground is where ALL GROUNDS from the pcb and additional power supplies go!
Run grounds from each additional psu, the output sockets, the DAC, the decoder, the servo etc etc to the new star ground.
I already understand the concept and you made it perfectly clear now.
My original question to Brent was where to link this "floating" star ground....
I am wondering how he did it... link to U309 (below the original tx) or U274 (near the original +5v reg) or U215 ??
Hi Brentrowemeister said:
Are those black wires running to the star ground ?
Where do you link the star ground to the main pcb?
I agree with you..... best place to get good capsrowemeister said:NOTE TO OTHERS - USE LEE FOR YOUR GOOD CAPS.

Ricardo
Yes the black wires are for the star. Because all my rails are on their own regs and psu I run all of them to the 'new' star. I have kept the original star under the original 5V reg for the cpu.
So all gnds link to the 'new' star.
Brent
So all gnds link to the 'new' star.
Brent
If I understand correctly, you run every psu gnd to the star and every reg gnd to the star..... just like a well built valve amp right ?rowemeister said:Yes the black wires are for the star. Because all my rails are on their own regs and psu I run all of them to the 'new' star. I have kept the original star under the original 5V reg for the cpu.
So all gnds link to the 'new' star.
And where did you link this new gnd star to the original psu... on the original 5v reg ? (This would be my first choice).
Ricardo
I actually linked the 5V star to the 'new' star rather than the other way round. I know it sounds the same but it makes more sense this way as they all go to the 'new' star.
Any links on the top of the pcd to the gnd plain are also run to this star. I also have a 22ohm resistor to the earth of the IEC connector from the star. The resistor was used to stop a earth/gnd loop.
Others may want to use the original 5v star, I used this method due to the amount of gnds used.
Brent
Any links on the top of the pcd to the gnd plain are also run to this star. I also have a 22ohm resistor to the earth of the IEC connector from the star. The resistor was used to stop a earth/gnd loop.
Others may want to use the original 5v star, I used this method due to the amount of gnds used.
Brent
Thank you Brentrowemeister said:I actually linked the 5V star to the 'new' star rather than the other way round. I know it sounds the same but it makes more sense this way as they all go to the 'new' star.
This is clear to me now.
Can you advise on the type of wire you are using ?
My kimber is not very flexible....
Regards
Ricardo
RCruz said:
Individual strands from Kimber speaker cable are very flexible, it's what I use. I believe Brent uses multistrand copper.
The best for sound would probably be solid core silver, but it would be very difficult to use and cost a fortune! I believe one member here did this and was stunned by the upgrade (he also cut the original ground tracks to minimise noise pickup).
Simon
Hi SimonSimontY said:
Individual strands from Kimber speaker cable are very flexible, it's what I use. I believe Brent uses multistrand copper.
The best for sound would probably be solid core silver,
I am using speaker kimber cable... it is a multiple diameter strand and the sound is very neutral... but I disagree when we speak about it´s flexibility... it is flexible but keeps whatever form I give them just like a solid core.... is that normal ?
Comparing with the wires from my multimeter (quite flexible), kimber feels like solid core.
I agree with the silver ... my cables for the phono cartridge are silver VDH´s and the difference is abismal.
Also like these:
http://www.lessloss.com/digitaltubes.html
http://www.lessloss.com/solid_silver_wiring.html
Ricardo
SimontY said:
The best for sound would probably be solid core silver, but it would be very difficult to use and cost a fortune! I believe one member here did this and was stunned by the upgrade (he also cut the original ground tracks to minimise noise pickup).
Simon
I have some gold-plated silver, teflon insulated, which I got ages ago for the signal paths in my PM66KI but never got round to using.
Who reckons it would be best in the amp or the CDP? and if so, where?
Jim
PS That DAC looks sooo lovely, Ricardo. I wonder what it sounds like, bearing in mind I heard that batteries kill the sound.
I would use it in the cd - I always use the source first rule.
I use Kimber pure silver AGSS from dac to discrete then from discrete to output through the silver mundorfs. Then the Crystal Ag interconnect (4 woven AGSS) to amp
It is only a small amount of cable internally but it made a difference to clarity.
So if that wire is good use it there for starters
Brent
I use Kimber pure silver AGSS from dac to discrete then from discrete to output through the silver mundorfs. Then the Crystal Ag interconnect (4 woven AGSS) to amp
It is only a small amount of cable internally but it made a difference to clarity.
So if that wire is good use it there for starters
Brent
Hi Brent
Got it from Audiocom, unsure of the make but solid silver, gold plated, so shouldn't be too shabby.
Used already to bypass the HDAM's, going from after the output filter from U210-R658 and U214-R657.
Where do you advise?
RF amp to mainboard seems to be calling me in addition to those you mentioned.
Also I used a single strand for the HDAM bypass and I saw Lee used two twisted strands of wire in a player he modded.
I thought maybe a single strand would be better to avoid introducing signal phase errors?
Interconnects are Van Den Hul The Name.
Now the Blackgates on the opamps are bedding in the player is sounding much cleaner, better bass, but still a tad laid back yet. Seems to be lacking the punch I remember on certain CD's, but I haven't listened to them for a while, so could be my memory.
Still haven't reversed the mods to the mains on the PM66KI, when I copied Ray's common mode choke, X and Y capacitors mod from the CDP for the amp, so could that explain the restrained feel?
Jim
Got it from Audiocom, unsure of the make but solid silver, gold plated, so shouldn't be too shabby.
Used already to bypass the HDAM's, going from after the output filter from U210-R658 and U214-R657.
Where do you advise?
RF amp to mainboard seems to be calling me in addition to those you mentioned.
Also I used a single strand for the HDAM bypass and I saw Lee used two twisted strands of wire in a player he modded.
I thought maybe a single strand would be better to avoid introducing signal phase errors?
Interconnects are Van Den Hul The Name.
Now the Blackgates on the opamps are bedding in the player is sounding much cleaner, better bass, but still a tad laid back yet. Seems to be lacking the punch I remember on certain CD's, but I haven't listened to them for a while, so could be my memory.
Still haven't reversed the mods to the mains on the PM66KI, when I copied Ray's common mode choke, X and Y capacitors mod from the CDP for the amp, so could that explain the restrained feel?
Jim
Hi Jim
On opamp outputs I run the wire from U217/U216 direct to the RCA socket, only adding a cap if required.
I prefer to use a coax for the rf signal. Maybe a nice interconnect could be used here. I may be trying the AGSS down the centre of some coax in this position to see if I can tweak a little more detail out of it.
The choke in the amp will cause these problems you are talking about, I really do advise parallel filters. I lent one of our mains plugs to Lee a month ago, ask him what he thinks of them.
Brent
On opamp outputs I run the wire from U217/U216 direct to the RCA socket, only adding a cap if required.
I prefer to use a coax for the rf signal. Maybe a nice interconnect could be used here. I may be trying the AGSS down the centre of some coax in this position to see if I can tweak a little more detail out of it.
The choke in the amp will cause these problems you are talking about, I really do advise parallel filters. I lent one of our mains plugs to Lee a month ago, ask him what he thinks of them.
Brent
jimh0612 said:I have some gold-plated silver, teflon insulated..
Why would they gold-plate silver? It's less conductive and plating with gold can cause audible problems, according to names like Kimber, who use inferior nickel to plate their plugs for all but the most expensive (Select). Bizarre! But I'm sure there's some logic in there somewhere (I hope).
jimh0612 said:Now the Blackgates on the opamps are bedding in the player is sounding much cleaner, better bass, but still a tad laid back yet. Seems to be lacking the punch I remember on certain CD's, but I haven't listened to them for a while, so could be my memory.
Still haven't reversed the mods to the mains on the PM66KI, when I copied Ray's common mode choke, X and Y capacitors mod from the CDP for the amp, so could that explain the restrained feel?
Jim,
Black Gates have a lazy, refined sort of sound. You'll never hear the big punch again lol. It's a trade-off that I consider well worthwhile as the BGs are so good sounding in other ways.
A choke on the amp??? Get rid my friend, get rid!!
Simon
A good reg is required on the dac analogue to release much more.
The Gold over Silver (which is unusual) maybe done this way for the skin effect. These mundorfs are 95% silver with 5% gold added, apparently it makes the silver work better. Of course whats going on in the cap is different to the cable or is it lol
Brent
The Gold over Silver (which is unusual) maybe done this way for the skin effect. These mundorfs are 95% silver with 5% gold added, apparently it makes the silver work better. Of course whats going on in the cap is different to the cable or is it lol
Brent
SimontY said:
Why would they gold-plate silver?
Silver corrodes, gold does not.
It's also easier to solder to the gold surface.
Andy
This is often true, but the pure 99.999999% silver does appear to stay perfectly shiny after a few years. Remembering sterling silver is only 92% pure.
I find silver using silver loaded solder (4%) very easy to solder to, but you do make a good point that was not addressed.
Brent
I find silver using silver loaded solder (4%) very easy to solder to, but you do make a good point that was not addressed.
Brent
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