If that screechy Led Zep voice is from the re-mastered series cd's then that's how they are. I've found the sound quality off those discs is not that great. It may be that the components are now showing up bad recordings.
I reckon a really good reg on dac analog and those other mods you have planned will help fill out the bass, add more detail and even up the sound.
Lee.
I reckon a really good reg on dac analog and those other mods you have planned will help fill out the bass, add more detail and even up the sound.
Lee.
Hi LeeThomo said:If that screechy Led Zep voice is from the re-mastered series cd's then that's how they are. I've found the sound quality off those discs is not that great. It may be that the components are now showing up bad recordings.
I reckon a really good reg on dac analog and those other mods you have planned will help fill out the bass, add more detail and even up the sound.
So I trust the micas are ok ?
I already have a sreg on the dac analog... Do you believe I could have better bass if I install another one on the dac clock ?
While I do not get a good clock I will try a modified version of the acoustica.org:
1- Eliminate the ground loop by cutting trace between CD02 and pin 2
2- Improve filtering by replacing CD05 by a 407uF 10v OsCon bypassed by a 100n Metal Film (I do not dare to solder something near the dac pins 2 and 27).
Can I expect improvements ?
Regards
Ricardo
RCruz said:
Hi Lee
So I trust the micas are ok ?
I already have a sreg on the dac analog... Do you believe I could have better bass if I install another one on the dac clock ?
While I do not get a good clock I will try a modified version of the acoustica.org:
1- Eliminate the ground loop by cutting trace between CD02 and pin 2
2- Improve filtering by replacing CD05 by a 407uF 10v OsCon bypassed by a 100n Metal Film (I do not dare to solder something near the dac pins 2 and 27).
Can I expect improvements ?
Regards
Ricardo
Hi Ricardo. The Silver Mica's are great caps and the Acoustica mods do bring improvements but a new clock is far better. Also, I personally don't bypass Oscons, ZA's etc.
Does anyone know if the TDA1302t hf amp in my cd67 draws much current? I am going to install a tx to power it with a couple of 5v regs and space is short so I want to use as small a tx as possible 2 x 0.077A, will this be enough? The datasheet says the laser output current is 100mA, does this mean the tx is not enough?
Lee.
Thomo said:I can vouch for Brent's products too. They offer fantastic performance and value for money.
Pic of clock on another cd67 with discrete on the main-board for anyone who's interested.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Hi Lee
In your pic, the sreg is used to power +5v digital on the dac ?
That Raygulator supplies dac analog, the digital supply is just fed from the standard 7805 reg. I just modded this player with cheap parts and to see if i could build the output stage on the original board. I plan to sell it in the very near future.
Lee.
Lee.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I still keep this BIG thing in parallel with C815 (Digital PSU).

Just thought I'd post an update of where I am after just finishing my last (until I think of something else) round of updates.
I've just moved the Invisus onto the dac digital, and have added two regs for the hf board under the laser assy; one for the laser supply and one for the hf amp. Each is supplied by it's own winding taken from the 67OSE tx using the windings originally used for the opamps.
The small elco's near the tda1302 are BG nx hi-q's. The sound is now much more open, with more detail and space around instruments. Lurrvelly.
Cheers, Lee.
I've just moved the Invisus onto the dac digital, and have added two regs for the hf board under the laser assy; one for the laser supply and one for the hf amp. Each is supplied by it's own winding taken from the 67OSE tx using the windings originally used for the opamps.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
The small elco's near the tda1302 are BG nx hi-q's. The sound is now much more open, with more detail and space around instruments. Lurrvelly.
Cheers, Lee.
HELP
I just did acoustica.org mod by cutting the trace between pin 2 and CD02 solder pad.
As the player was open I also out some ferrites in the inductors around TDA1301 and the R149 150.
Now the player does not play....😕
😡
It reads the disc... sometimes stabilizes in one track but never goes mere than 2 seconds and stops.
No sound comes from the output.
What could be the cause for this behaviour ?
Really need help.
Regards
Ricardo
I just did acoustica.org mod by cutting the trace between pin 2 and CD02 solder pad.
As the player was open I also out some ferrites in the inductors around TDA1301 and the R149 150.
Now the player does not play....😕

It reads the disc... sometimes stabilizes in one track but never goes mere than 2 seconds and stops.
No sound comes from the output.
What could be the cause for this behaviour ?
Really need help.
Regards
Ricardo
BIG DISTRESS
Q106 (Focus and radial driver ) is getting really hot... too hot to touch.... is that normal ?
The CD53 just spins the disc.... than informs the number of tracks... thatn stops.. does not read the tracks
Please Help
Ricardo
Q106 (Focus and radial driver ) is getting really hot... too hot to touch.... is that normal ?
The CD53 just spins the disc.... than informs the number of tracks... thatn stops.. does not read the tracks
Please Help
Ricardo
RCruz said:BIG DISTRESS
I'd check around those inductors you added the ferrites to. Look for bridges between tracks, solder splashes etc.
Lee.
RCruz said:BIG DISTRESS
Q106 (Focus and radial driver ) is getting really hot... too hot to touch.... is that normal ?
The CD53 just spins the disc.... than informs the number of tracks... thatn stops.. does not read the tracks
Please Help
Ricardo
Take a look on service mode in service manual.
focus information come from TDA 1301 pin 23 to Q106 pin 3, Radial from pin22 to pin 1 .
But spindle motor is a question of decoder from pin 22 (E) (signal 16, pag 16 of service manual) to pin 7 of QM01 and from QF01 pin 17 (F) to pin 3 of QM01
What is tension on pin of Q106? 9 to 16 and 4 for v- from R149 and pin 2 from R150.
Look immediatly to R149 and R150
riccardo said:
Take a look on service mode in service manual.
focus information come from TDA 1301 pin 23 to Q106 pin 3, Radial from pin22 to pin 1 .
But spindle motor is a question of decoder from pin 22 (E) (signal 16, pag 16 of service manual) to pin 7 of QM01 and from QF01 pin 17 (F) to pin 3 of QM01
What is tension on pin of Q106? 9 to 16 and 4 for v- from R149 and pin 2 from R150.
Look immediatly to R149 and R150
Thank you Riccardo
The problem was with R149 150... just removed them, replaced one that seemed to be stressed, removed the ferrites, inverted the position of the inductors so they are not paralell in the board and..... Voilá..... Everything works again and the driver does not heat.... can not explain the fault.... Ferrites ?
By the way... removing trace between pin 2 of dac and cd02 and replacing cd05 by a 470uF10v oscon seems to solve my previous screetchy sound.
I am hearing the love again.
Regards
Ricardo
Vibration Isolation
Hi Ricardo!
Great.
Now, if you want see the Nirvana,
take a look here :Vibration Isolation
Put the player on a wood platform, and hang up it with 5 mm (diam) silicon bands. The bands, thats are "springs" properly, will lengthen about 17/25 cm.
With Mauro's mod, and silicon bands, you could kill any analogic turntable on earth.
😉
Hi Ricardo!
Great.
Now, if you want see the Nirvana,
take a look here :Vibration Isolation
Put the player on a wood platform, and hang up it with 5 mm (diam) silicon bands. The bands, thats are "springs" properly, will lengthen about 17/25 cm.
With Mauro's mod, and silicon bands, you could kill any analogic turntable on earth.
😉
Re: Vibration Isolation
Nothing like cautious optimism hey! 😀
riccardo said:With Mauro's mod, and silicon bands, you could kill any analogic turntable on earth.
Nothing like cautious optimism hey! 😀
Re: Re: Vibration Isolation
😀 😀 😀 😀
Facts not dreams.
These are no-cost solution, from "Constellation of Thought"
Mauro's mod cost about 3 euro.
Silicon bands and wood platform costs about 10 euros.
I have evidence.
If this works for a microscope ..
Try, and come back here...
SimontY said:
Nothing like cautious optimism hey! 😀
😀 😀 😀 😀
Facts not dreams.
These are no-cost solution, from "Constellation of Thought"
Mauro's mod cost about 3 euro.
Silicon bands and wood platform costs about 10 euros.
I have evidence.
If this works for a microscope ..
Try, and come back here...
I'm always after improvements, although right now I need to upgrade my current speakers and get the gear off my computer desk and onto some kind of rack...
Simon
Simon
I have isolated my cd player before in a way similar to that with good results. But my highly modded cd67 only just beats my mates fairly modest turntable setup in terms of sound quality.
Brent, how have you secured that big toroid at the front of your cd player? I need to add another as the standard tx was overheating when supplying the hf board with the opamp windings. Caused a smell like burning paint. Again.
Lee.
Brent, how have you secured that big toroid at the front of your cd player? I need to add another as the standard tx was overheating when supplying the hf board with the opamp windings. Caused a smell like burning paint. Again.
Lee.
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