RCruz said:
Fair enough. If you like the results, that is all that counts. I definitely wouldn't bypass Black Gates though.
As for wires, I use solid core copper ptfe insulated that I got real cheap off ebay. But I always find solid core copper taken from CAT5e Network cable very good, but solid core is fragile and can only be bent a few times before it snaps so it can be a pain.
Cheers,
Lee.
Hi there!
It's cold winter now, I'm back at my iron 🙂
Today I've changed the opamp's 470µF/25V Elna RJH for my 220µF BG, removed the headphone stuff and power lines.
The sound is better! I mean I was prepared to find some imporvement after some days in some areas, but it showed a big change right then!
The words are that it sounds less fat, better hold.
Is the headphone stuff pollute that much? Or the LM4562 does a far better work with the BG?
The back lid is off also but I don't think the ground chassis it is changes the sounds that much...
I'll do pictures tomorrow as I have stuff I may use to make some separate PSU for the 5Vs (I still have the single 7805...).
Matthieu
It's cold winter now, I'm back at my iron 🙂
Today I've changed the opamp's 470µF/25V Elna RJH for my 220µF BG, removed the headphone stuff and power lines.
The sound is better! I mean I was prepared to find some imporvement after some days in some areas, but it showed a big change right then!
The words are that it sounds less fat, better hold.
Is the headphone stuff pollute that much? Or the LM4562 does a far better work with the BG?
The back lid is off also but I don't think the ground chassis it is changes the sounds that much...
I'll do pictures tomorrow as I have stuff I may use to make some separate PSU for the 5Vs (I still have the single 7805...).
Matthieu
I am almost ready to do the same mods... but still deciding if I should increase the cap to 470uF16V BGstd.Malefoda said:
My doubt resides on the size.... can i fit the bigger 470uF in place of the ELNAS ???
But the main question is... Whenever I take the top lid off my player, the soundstage seems to become bigger with more space between the instruments.
Can this be real or the fact that I am looking to my work puts a "purple haze" in my mind ?
Note:
In my case. the top lid is heavilly padded with black automotive stuff hehe.😀
Ricardo
I find it's almost beautiful 🙂 and the best way to describe the change is to say that the BG (and headphones removal?) upgrade is like changing the opamps for better ones! And yes I did listened with the top lid off, have to do blind test later (mine is also heavily loaded...). If some exprienced guys here can give their pov...
And for your 470 vs 220 choice I did choose the 220 as I don't want to load too much my tiny CD53's PSU, wich is smaller than 63's.
And finally my "CD53e Black Signature" (e for enhanced):
And for your 470 vs 220 choice I did choose the 220 as I don't want to load too much my tiny CD53's PSU, wich is smaller than 63's.
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An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
And finally my "CD53e Black Signature" (e for enhanced):
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Beautifull work you have there....Malefoda said:
Maybe this is the responsabilty of the BG alone because I removed the phono circuit and did not sence a big change.
Big improvements can be obtained by upgrading the +5v digital reg and output cap.
Also use OsCon or Ruby MCZ in the +5v digital psu lines near the decoder and servos and replace the resistors by some inductors (Thank you Ray) and you will notice a BIG improvement. (Also replace the ceramics by 1% micas).
Can you please inform what type of wire you are using to bypass the output caps from opamps to output plugs?
Best regards
Ricardo
Well all the Ray's list has already been done but the dedicated 5V rails, wich will be the next and last step for this player.
The wires are just solid copper wire used for big tx or some self.
Last word about the BG: maybe they give a bit harsh sound right now and need some burn-in?
The wires are just solid copper wire used for big tx or some self.
Last word about the BG: maybe they give a bit harsh sound right now and need some burn-in?
Malefoda said:
I would say yes. Also, if you've not separated the 5v rails yet, they're probably revealing weaknesses elsewhere. Just adding another 7805 reg for the dac analog will help a lot. Although I can whole-heartedly recommend Brent's S-Power there, I am amazed at the improvements it made over my Audiocon Invisus.
Lee.
Thomo said:
Hi Lee
Splendid idea... i will try this mod... maybe I could use a LM340AT instead ?
Can you please identify the dac analog +5v rails ? I know there are several but do not know how to identify them.
Regards
Ricardo
CD 53 SE Decoder cap C513
Hi
I have a problem related with the PCB layout in my CD53SE.
It is different from the CD53 schematics that I have because the cap C513 (0.047 ceramic) is vertical in my player and not horizontal as in the schematics.😕
In the schematic, the C513 links the pin 15 to ground (pin 16 is linked to ground also).
In my PCB, the C513 (vertical) links pins 15 and 16.
I need to know if pin 16 is internally earthed (below the decoder) or if the design is different because I want to replace this cap by a 150uF Os-Con.
Regards
Ricardo
Hi
I have a problem related with the PCB layout in my CD53SE.
It is different from the CD53 schematics that I have because the cap C513 (0.047 ceramic) is vertical in my player and not horizontal as in the schematics.😕
In the schematic, the C513 links the pin 15 to ground (pin 16 is linked to ground also).
In my PCB, the C513 (vertical) links pins 15 and 16.
I need to know if pin 16 is internally earthed (below the decoder) or if the design is different because I want to replace this cap by a 150uF Os-Con.
Regards
Ricardo
The BG are burnin' in...
Meanwhile I've to find a way to make cheap 5V rails, I think the best is to find a cheap 2x 9V and clean each to 5V, and right now I've in hand second hand caps, even if used very few (from my company's faulty stuff).
What may I use from this?
Loads of Panas FC 1800/63, former opamps caps (470/25 RJH), some older Nichi PL...
Maybe just Tx, big caps (FCs?), 7805, caps (RJH?) and go? Maybe I'll re-use the RJH fitted on each rails on the PCB?
Meanwhile I've to find a way to make cheap 5V rails, I think the best is to find a cheap 2x 9V and clean each to 5V, and right now I've in hand second hand caps, even if used very few (from my company's faulty stuff).
What may I use from this?
Loads of Panas FC 1800/63, former opamps caps (470/25 RJH), some older Nichi PL...
Maybe just Tx, big caps (FCs?), 7805, caps (RJH?) and go? Maybe I'll re-use the RJH fitted on each rails on the PCB?
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Malefoda said:
Hi Matthieu.
I have found that the best thing is to put the regs as close to the supply pins of whatever you're feeding as possible. ie. for the dac analog - Put FC + 7805 on small piece of stripboard, solder on some legs and then feed the output straight onto u199 (remove u200).
I have used a SuperRaygulator:
Lee.
Attachments
I guys. I've been busy lately sorting my psus out and other such things like QA assurance (very exciting).
Had a quick scan through all the posts and it's as busy as ever.
Brent
Had a quick scan through all the posts and it's as busy as ever.
Brent
OT:
Anyone here have a copy of the service manual for the Rotel RCD-965BX LE discrete ? I have one on my hand and I'll like a sneek peek before actually picking it up.
Anyone here have a copy of the service manual for the Rotel RCD-965BX LE discrete ? I have one on my hand and I'll like a sneek peek before actually picking it up.
I'll maybe go for a separate TX and 2 Raygulators (So from 3 regs to 5... when Brent uses 21!!! oh my...).
What's the values of the parts for a 5V Raygulator? And where to put the FC? They're big, they should stay by the TX, then wires, then the Raygs acap the DAC.
As it's endless, I think havin' Brent's SReg by the opamps and the DAC is far better...
What's the values of the parts for a 5V Raygulator? And where to put the FC? They're big, they should stay by the TX, then wires, then the Raygs acap the DAC.
As it's endless, I think havin' Brent's SReg by the opamps and the DAC is far better...
marantz 63 mod
Hi guys, how do i get my hand onto the Flea PCB?Has any one built superraygulator?Any pictures?-
I try to build Raygulator but struggle with parts-ie i can't get my hand on 121R and 1K05 resistors-only 120R and 1K or 1K5 only -actually are they the same as 1K05? Quan.
Has anyone heard of Gold minireg?- from Coffin-Taiwan.
PS-sorry for all those questions -as a newbie i can't read circuir diagram and built something base on it unless pictures to guide along the way.
Hi guys, how do i get my hand onto the Flea PCB?Has any one built superraygulator?Any pictures?-
I try to build Raygulator but struggle with parts-ie i can't get my hand on 121R and 1K05 resistors-only 120R and 1K or 1K5 only -actually are they the same as 1K05? Quan.
Has anyone heard of Gold minireg?- from Coffin-Taiwan.
PS-sorry for all those questions -as a newbie i can't read circuir diagram and built something base on it unless pictures to guide along the way.
Quan, I'd email Martin Clark off this forum for info on the Flea pcb.
Anyone who wants info on the "Raygulators": It would be best to use the "search this thread" box under the posts on your screen, you will easily find all the info there as there's plenty of it.
Cheers,
Lee.
Anyone who wants info on the "Raygulators": It would be best to use the "search this thread" box under the posts on your screen, you will easily find all the info there as there's plenty of it.
Cheers,
Lee.