Hi.
I've got a set of 22000uf Cerafine caps that make those Silmics look small 😀 You can still get 10000uf 63v Cerafine caps from www.hificollective.co.uk They also sell the M CAP M-Lytic HC caps which I've had good results with.
Seconded regarding Grandata, try www.dalbani.co.uk or CPC for the lasers. The ones I got from Grandata didn't have the Philips logo on them and neither of the last 2 worked 😡
Cheers,
Mags.
I've got a set of 22000uf Cerafine caps that make those Silmics look small 😀 You can still get 10000uf 63v Cerafine caps from www.hificollective.co.uk They also sell the M CAP M-Lytic HC caps which I've had good results with.
Seconded regarding Grandata, try www.dalbani.co.uk or CPC for the lasers. The ones I got from Grandata didn't have the Philips logo on them and neither of the last 2 worked 😡
Cheers,
Mags.
My "lazurrrr" from Dalbani didn't work properly so I'd hesitate to recommend them for a laser (but otherwise they seem ok).
Simon
Simon
rowemeister said:
Hi Brent.
I'll see if I can dig out some pic's.
I've used them in a Avondale NCC200 power amp, they've have also been skinned so I'm not sure of the voltage rating (built it ages ago). Judging from the pic's they look about the same diameter but are quite a bit longer.
Cheers,
Mags.
P.S. Might have to have a couple of those discrete output boards of you to test against the Zapfilter, gotta fit the extra transformers etc I've just acquired for the servo and decoder first🙄
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Marantz-CD-63...oryZ3272QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
A player with the internal shots of a 'DAKU' modification. Doesn't look like you get an awful lot for the money tbh. Superclock 4 and some BG caps after the HDAM, maybe a few other new caps and tweaks, then that board on the right near the HDAM... Can't tell what it is.
And has the HDAM even been bypassed ?
A player with the internal shots of a 'DAKU' modification. Doesn't look like you get an awful lot for the money tbh. Superclock 4 and some BG caps after the HDAM, maybe a few other new caps and tweaks, then that board on the right near the HDAM... Can't tell what it is.
And has the HDAM even been bypassed ?
It really makes me laugh. £520 for 3 invisus 2 for analogue and one for the entire 5V rail (LOL).A clock 4 some different opamps and BG caps for bypassing.
For that I fit a extra transformer for the analogue, a handfull of spower (analogue and dac) 2x clock and discrete now etc etc.
It's a good rip off
Brent
For that I fit a extra transformer for the analogue, a handfull of spower (analogue and dac) 2x clock and discrete now etc etc.
It's a good rip off
Brent
adfinni said:
Hi.
The board next to the HDAM is triple invisus regulator board for the +5v +12v and -12v supplies, the HDAM isn't bypassed, most of the caps are BG's and Rubycon ZA's and the opamps are LM6172.
Those new invisus mk2 regs are the best I ever heard but at a price. I've got some in my CD63 😀
Cheers,
Mags.
P.S. I seem to remember that player being on ebay before 😉
I am wanting to scope a few different clocks and was wondering if anyone has got any stored data on any tests they may have done for us to look at. I am wanting spectrum analyzer pics / data.
Also what software / equipment are people using
I am currently using a Velleman pc based scope. Can this be used with different software to whats supplied?
Cheers
Brent
Also what software / equipment are people using
I am currently using a Velleman pc based scope. Can this be used with different software to whats supplied?
Cheers
Brent
rowemeister said:
Nice credits Brent, thanks! I'll put a link up on my site soon.
Does that include The Flea, or only commercial clocks?
Ray
Hi Ray
No probs 😉
I knew you would be the first to post on this.
All clocks, it will be interesting to compare how they all look
Brent
No probs 😉
I knew you would be the first to post on this.
All clocks, it will be interesting to compare how they all look
Brent
Cryogenic treatment
Been talking to a guy at Mappos just joined them from Ecosse and he reckons that the cryo treatment makes a big difference to the sound of interconnects (unless you already have monocrystalline copper already, in which case there's hardly any difference).
Apparently they did loads of blind testing.
Interesting, cos I thought changing crystal structure by freezing was snake oil.
Might move the fish fingers over so I can have a listen.
Oh sorry, i think we've done those, haven't we. Brent's still got a freezer full of alien body parts..............
Been talking to a guy at Mappos just joined them from Ecosse and he reckons that the cryo treatment makes a big difference to the sound of interconnects (unless you already have monocrystalline copper already, in which case there's hardly any difference).
Apparently they did loads of blind testing.
Interesting, cos I thought changing crystal structure by freezing was snake oil.
Might move the fish fingers over so I can have a listen.
Oh sorry, i think we've done those, haven't we. Brent's still got a freezer full of alien body parts..............
Discrete output
Hi Ray/Simon
I've been looking at the parts list for Simon's version of the discrete outputstage as compared with Ray's.
How much difference do you think the components would make to the overall sound and why?
Regards
Jim
Hi Ray/Simon
I've been looking at the parts list for Simon's version of the discrete outputstage as compared with Ray's.
How much difference do you think the components would make to the overall sound and why?
Regards
Jim
Re: Discrete output
Hi Jim,
My DIY interconnect uses DCT copper (solid core) and solid copper plugs, soldered with solder containing copper. They give an immensely relaxing and full sound with no glare compared to ordinary (£100ish) coax interconnects from a few years ago. Get some freezing done, I reckon it's part of why this sounds so nice...
Different parts seem to sound different, but I can't answer the why part. I think the psu decoupling caps and regulators will make much more difference than the resistors used.
But FWIW I chose Kiwame becuase of the claims made for a "tubey" sound. Sure enough my system's never sounded so smooth and musical (they're also in my x-overs).
I also have plenty of Black Gates and Cerafines in the system, and the more I add these parts the fuller and smoother the sound gets, whilst not losing detail. Just ask Brent or Adam (adfinni) if it sounds like real music, they'll tell you 😉
Simon
jimh0612 said:
Hi Jim,
My DIY interconnect uses DCT copper (solid core) and solid copper plugs, soldered with solder containing copper. They give an immensely relaxing and full sound with no glare compared to ordinary (£100ish) coax interconnects from a few years ago. Get some freezing done, I reckon it's part of why this sounds so nice...
jimh0612 said:
Different parts seem to sound different, but I can't answer the why part. I think the psu decoupling caps and regulators will make much more difference than the resistors used.
But FWIW I chose Kiwame becuase of the claims made for a "tubey" sound. Sure enough my system's never sounded so smooth and musical (they're also in my x-overs).
I also have plenty of Black Gates and Cerafines in the system, and the more I add these parts the fuller and smoother the sound gets, whilst not losing detail. Just ask Brent or Adam (adfinni) if it sounds like real music, they'll tell you 😉
Simon
Hi Simon
Just been browsing around the web and looked at Hi Fi Collective.
They say Holco gives a crisp, full sound (I think they are the ones Ray chose) and the Kiwame as you say, " tubey".
Might follow the tube path. My first influences in hifi were from my Dad, a semi-pro jazzman (tenor sax and clarinet).
He swore by his Linn Sondek LP12 with a Stanton cartridge and a huge McIntosh valve amp.
I remember long listening sessions late into the night feeling like I was listening to live music, something I haven't felt yet on my equipment.
From what I can gather the BG AC's will help as well.
Jim
Just been browsing around the web and looked at Hi Fi Collective.
They say Holco gives a crisp, full sound (I think they are the ones Ray chose) and the Kiwame as you say, " tubey".
Might follow the tube path. My first influences in hifi were from my Dad, a semi-pro jazzman (tenor sax and clarinet).
He swore by his Linn Sondek LP12 with a Stanton cartridge and a huge McIntosh valve amp.
I remember long listening sessions late into the night feeling like I was listening to live music, something I haven't felt yet on my equipment.
From what I can gather the BG AC's will help as well.
Jim