Re: Photos of the installed Tentlab XO
Beautifully installed. Time for a new output stage and power supplies now is it? 😉
I'd imagine you can measure psu noise.
Simon
sinigersky said:Here are some pictures of the newly installed clock.
Beautifully installed. Time for a new output stage and power supplies now is it? 😉
I'd imagine you can measure psu noise.
Simon
I have already ordered LM4562 / LME49720 (BTW, does someone know the difference between those two ICs?), I am intending to put some LM317's and diamond buffers (http://sjostromaudio.com/_unsql/hifi/qrv05/index.html) instead of the HDAM funny schematics.
A got a comment that I had created a (bad) ground loop. But I think my wiring is ok.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=109073
What do yo say?
A got a comment that I had created a (bad) ground loop. But I think my wiring is ok.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=109073
What do yo say?
I believe the are the same opamps but the newer one has a higher max voltage.
I only ground the coax at the clock end and leave the other end o/c. This way noise is sent back to source
Brent
I only ground the coax at the clock end and leave the other end o/c. This way noise is sent back to source
Brent
ezkcdude said:I think the important number here may be sigma (std dev). Here's a figure I found:
If this is true, 19 ps seems like a pretty good number, right?
Pars said:Yes, 19ps would be good, but of more interest would be the jitter right at the DAC pin, as this is where it makes a difference I would think.
Hey, that's a cool picture Evan. I was looking for something just like that, to clarify things. Looks like this one says it all 🙂
The first pic has a std dev of 3.91ps, even better! The histogram method also includes the scopes own trigger-jitter so i've read (about 8ps I believe). Maybe that explains part of the difference.
The measurement was done with The Flea mounted in an ezDAC by the way, with the probe connected to the point on the ezPCB where normally the output of the oscillator-can would be, just before the two 100R resistors.
Regards,
Ray
sinigersky said:A got a comment that I had created a (bad) ground loop. But I think my wiring is ok.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=109073
What do yo say?
I'm inclined to agree. If you have two ground points and there is a difference in potential between the two (and there will be owing to currents flowing in the grounds) then current will flow through your circuit ground between those two points. Ohms law.
Lift one of the grounds or connect them at the same point and see what happens then.
Also, if your circuit is connected to the box and the box to the chassis that could be another cause. Insulate the box from the casework with rubber grommets.
Glenn2 said:Also, if your circuit is connected to the box and the box to the chassis that could be another cause. Insulate the box from the casework with rubber grommets.
Thanx for the hints. I've tried the following: isolated mounting of the clock box from the cabinet; the shield of the coax cable decoupled via 100nF on the player PCB side. Result: the 100 Hz peak in the noise spectrum disappeared!!! The overall noise level is now lower. Some increase in low-freq. noise (<30 Hz).
I am impress how sensitive the system is on the clock!
Ok, I know, a picture says more than 1000 words. 🙂
http://www.sinigersky.com/images/Marantz-CD67-Clock-3-ok.jpg
...and the test results:
http://www.sinigersky.com/docs/Marantz CD-67 mkII OSE recl_ humfree.htm
http://www.sinigersky.com/images/Marantz-CD67-Clock-3-ok.jpg
...and the test results:
http://www.sinigersky.com/docs/Marantz CD-67 mkII OSE recl_ humfree.htm
Marantz CD53SE Mods
Hi Ray
Following your very precise instructions related with Marantz CD 63 mods, I did some very important modifications on my 53SE.
I am using the digital part of the CD player to feed a Sony 670DAT as a DAC.
After replacing the digital PSU caps, the correspondant diodes and the +5v power caps in the decoder and HF amp, I decided to replace de C505 coupling cap between the HFamp and the decoder. This is where I noticed a big change becuse replacing the 2200pF ceramic with a polystyrene film foil as you sugested, the sound became much more detailed and with great impact but the overall balance was altered. (I got a lot more trebble and lack of bass). I am puzled with this result becuase I believe that this cap tranports a digital signal.
I am now experimenting with a 2200pF FKC from Wima + 620pF ERO KP but the sound is not natural (Guitar is sibilant).
Can you please advise on opcional caps and values ?
What type of signal exists there and what is the purpose of the HF amp?
Can I use a higher capacity cap ? (ERO KP 3600pF ?)
Thank you for your excelent work.
Note: I am sending a excel file with the mods and some comments for your info.
Best Regards
Ricardo
Hi Ray
Following your very precise instructions related with Marantz CD 63 mods, I did some very important modifications on my 53SE.
I am using the digital part of the CD player to feed a Sony 670DAT as a DAC.
After replacing the digital PSU caps, the correspondant diodes and the +5v power caps in the decoder and HF amp, I decided to replace de C505 coupling cap between the HFamp and the decoder. This is where I noticed a big change becuse replacing the 2200pF ceramic with a polystyrene film foil as you sugested, the sound became much more detailed and with great impact but the overall balance was altered. (I got a lot more trebble and lack of bass). I am puzled with this result becuase I believe that this cap tranports a digital signal.
I am now experimenting with a 2200pF FKC from Wima + 620pF ERO KP but the sound is not natural (Guitar is sibilant).
Can you please advise on opcional caps and values ?
What type of signal exists there and what is the purpose of the HF amp?
Can I use a higher capacity cap ? (ERO KP 3600pF ?)
Thank you for your excelent work.
Note: I am sending a excel file with the mods and some comments for your info.
Best Regards
Ricardo
Attachments
Re: Marantz CD53SE Mods
Hi Ricardo,
Your mods look good, be careful though with using such very big electrolytics all over the place. There have been reports that such big caps can make the player sound a bit dull and less dynamic. The reason is mainly that big caps can have higher parasitic inductance. Second, this high capacity is not really needed if you look at the current that has to be supplied. If you encounter such problem, it may have something to do with all the 2200u around the IC's.
Don't be surprised the HF coupling cap has an influence on the sound: the HF signal after all is ANALOG. The information it carries could be called 'digital', but the signal has to be demodulated first. The HF amp simply amplifies the HF signal coming off the laserdiodes. I wouldn't change the value of C505; it forms a filter together with other components. The best diëlectricum you can use is polystyrene, so that's fine.
Regards,
Ray
RCruz said:Hi Ray
....
Can you please advise on opcional caps and values ?
What type of signal exists there and what is the purpose of the HF amp?
Can I use a higher capacity cap ? (ERO KP 3600pF ?)
Thank you for your excelent work.
Note: I am sending a excel file with the mods and some comments for your info.
Best Regards
Ricardo
Hi Ricardo,
Your mods look good, be careful though with using such very big electrolytics all over the place. There have been reports that such big caps can make the player sound a bit dull and less dynamic. The reason is mainly that big caps can have higher parasitic inductance. Second, this high capacity is not really needed if you look at the current that has to be supplied. If you encounter such problem, it may have something to do with all the 2200u around the IC's.
Don't be surprised the HF coupling cap has an influence on the sound: the HF signal after all is ANALOG. The information it carries could be called 'digital', but the signal has to be demodulated first. The HF amp simply amplifies the HF signal coming off the laserdiodes. I wouldn't change the value of C505; it forms a filter together with other components. The best diëlectricum you can use is polystyrene, so that's fine.
Regards,
Ray
Re: Re: Marantz CD53SE Mods
This wasn't my experience when using 6800uF in each 5v location (Panasonic FC).
But, of course, 470uF Black Gate all over is much nicer sounding.
my
only
Simon
ps - Black Gate AC are still coloured to my ears, but vocals are so well resolved I just don't care!
6h5c said:There have been reports that such big caps can make the player sound a bit dull and less dynamic. The reason is mainly that big caps can have higher parasitic inductance. Second, this high capacity is not really needed if you look at the current that has to be supplied. If you encounter such problem, it may have something to do with all the 2200u around the IC's.
This wasn't my experience when using 6800uF in each 5v location (Panasonic FC).
But, of course, 470uF Black Gate all over is much nicer sounding.
my

Simon
ps - Black Gate AC are still coloured to my ears, but vocals are so well resolved I just don't care!
Need Help! please!
Hi guys,
Just received a CD63 SE from a friend.. however it has problems.. sometimes it failed to spin the CD, sometimes the CD will spin a bit then it will spin in reverse and then it will stop. But a few times it will work flawlessly..
Have download the service manual from Ray's site (thanks Ray!).
Press play and stop to enter in Service Mode. i found out that i have a Focus Problem/error ( Err 02).
does anyone know what i can do?
regards!
Hi guys,
Just received a CD63 SE from a friend.. however it has problems.. sometimes it failed to spin the CD, sometimes the CD will spin a bit then it will spin in reverse and then it will stop. But a few times it will work flawlessly..
Have download the service manual from Ray's site (thanks Ray!).
Press play and stop to enter in Service Mode. i found out that i have a Focus Problem/error ( Err 02).
does anyone know what i can do?
regards!
SimontY said:Excellent Ray, will there be measurements of a standard and/or modded CD63/7?
Simon
I happen to have a standard CD57 at work, just for background music. I could do a few measurements on it, just to see how much jitter there is with the standard clock, good idea.
Ray
Marantz cd 53 mods
Hi Ray
Thank you for your promt reply.
The 2200uF are Rubycon MCZ with the lowest possible ESR.
After these and the big can 580000uF + 470000uF + ERO + Styroflex in the +5v PSU, the sound has more headroom and less distortion.
The only problem I found was when replacing the C505 ceramic by a 2200pF polystyrene the sound became much faster with uge amounts of detail and attack but edgy and proeminent in the highs.
I would like to know if there are alternatives so that I can have this amount of detail but with more bass.
Note:
I am using an external DAC (Sony DTC 670 DAT) and would like to mod its PSU. Can you help me with the schematics ?
Best Regards
Ricardo
Hi Ray
Thank you for your promt reply.
The 2200uF are Rubycon MCZ with the lowest possible ESR.
After these and the big can 580000uF + 470000uF + ERO + Styroflex in the +5v PSU, the sound has more headroom and less distortion.
The only problem I found was when replacing the C505 ceramic by a 2200pF polystyrene the sound became much faster with uge amounts of detail and attack but edgy and proeminent in the highs.
I would like to know if there are alternatives so that I can have this amount of detail but with more bass.
Note:
I am using an external DAC (Sony DTC 670 DAT) and would like to mod its PSU. Can you help me with the schematics ?
Best Regards
Ricardo
Re: Marantz cd 53 mods
Can anyone else confirm this ?
Anyway, I'm going to do the replace tomorrow. Only difference will be by polypropylene.
RCruz said:.. replacing the C505 ceramic by a 2200pF polystyrene the sound became much faster with uge amounts of detail and attack but edgy and proeminent in the highs.
Can anyone else confirm this ?
Anyway, I'm going to do the replace tomorrow. Only difference will be by polypropylene.
BG AC
Hi Simon its me again.
You certainly seem to like the AC's and I wondered where you have used them?
Also I fitted 4 of the 5v Rayregs to RD01, RD04, R508 and R511. I think I have therefore missed out the caps by feeding the reg voltage straight in at the load end of the resistor.
Do you think I would get better results by using BG's between the reg and load? Maybe I could build the cap into the reg itself? (They include a small tant as per the schematics on Ray's site).
Any suggestions on values/types would be appreciated.
As an alternative I could convert the regs into SuperRayregs with the BC547 gyrators, but would this sound better or worse than the BG's?
Questions, questions but I've read through this mammoth thread in what seems like hundreds of sessions
and to be honest I'm totally confused now. HELP??😕
PS Slightly OT I went ahead and bought a pair of Quad 11L's off eBay and I'm delighted to say they sound great on a pair of Atacama Nexus stands. Probably not a patch on your Seas Pontus or Brent's SCM40's but for £250 quid not bad at all!!
Rgds Jim
Hi Simon its me again.
You certainly seem to like the AC's and I wondered where you have used them?
Also I fitted 4 of the 5v Rayregs to RD01, RD04, R508 and R511. I think I have therefore missed out the caps by feeding the reg voltage straight in at the load end of the resistor.
Do you think I would get better results by using BG's between the reg and load? Maybe I could build the cap into the reg itself? (They include a small tant as per the schematics on Ray's site).
Any suggestions on values/types would be appreciated.
As an alternative I could convert the regs into SuperRayregs with the BC547 gyrators, but would this sound better or worse than the BG's?
Questions, questions but I've read through this mammoth thread in what seems like hundreds of sessions

PS Slightly OT I went ahead and bought a pair of Quad 11L's off eBay and I'm delighted to say they sound great on a pair of Atacama Nexus stands. Probably not a patch on your Seas Pontus or Brent's SCM40's but for £250 quid not bad at all!!
Rgds Jim
Even more OT - anyone of you UK guys know anything about the Onix OA21s amp? It's 4sale here nearby.
http://homepage.ntlworld.com/hon.lau/onix.htm
See, that was OT.
http://homepage.ntlworld.com/hon.lau/onix.htm
See, that was OT.
Thomo
A while back you posted this with pics "On the dac and deconder digital 5v rails I have been using 47uF Black Gate PK's, soldered underneath the board with 2mm leads and was very happy with the sound. I have just replaced these with 47uF 6.3v Black Gate Nx Hi-Q's...... WOW!"
I have a CD63KI. Would these same locations work for me? And am I right in thinking they are bypassing other caps on top of the board?
Rgds
Jim
A while back you posted this with pics "On the dac and deconder digital 5v rails I have been using 47uF Black Gate PK's, soldered underneath the board with 2mm leads and was very happy with the sound. I have just replaced these with 47uF 6.3v Black Gate Nx Hi-Q's...... WOW!"
I have a CD63KI. Would these same locations work for me? And am I right in thinking they are bypassing other caps on top of the board?
Rgds
Jim
Jesper - the OA21 is a very good little amp. Punches well above it's weight, 50W/ch IIRC, and slightly cleaner-sounding than the contemporary Nait2.
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