Thomo, that looks superb!
FWIW when I still had op-amps I used 13R Kiwame resistors and the sound was great. This was into a capacitive interconnect ie. a twisted pair.
Simon
FWIW when I still had op-amps I used 13R Kiwame resistors and the sound was great. This was into a capacitive interconnect ie. a twisted pair.
Simon
alright i should be able to get some 13r kiwame fairly cheap over here.
Will try that out, can't wait for my exams to be over tomorrow. I really shouldn't be here for too long.
Will try that out, can't wait for my exams to be over tomorrow. I really shouldn't be here for too long.
marcusdeming said:
Hi Marcus,
If I were you I'd listen to Glenn, he seems to know his technical stuff. Try something a little larger. Then you can be happy that you're "on the safe side". Kiwame resistors are very nice sounding and good value.
Simon
There's a small but useful gain in detail and naturalness to be had swapping the pooey RCA sockets for nice ones too.
marcusdeming said:
Just check the data sheets of the devices you are using. AD827 was mentioned earlier and this can "drive unlimited capacitive loads" (see data sheet) but some (e.g. AD8066) cannot. Page 22 of the AD8065/66 data sheet says 20R is a good value. If you want to be op-amp rolling then 50R is as low as I'd go just to be safe.
If you think about what putting a capacitor on the output does some HF is shunted to ground rather than feeding back to the -ve input to drive down the output. The ringing/overshoot on a step input (again, see data sheets) is the charging of this capacitance I think.
Reading that back it's a very lousy explanation, but check those data sheets for driving capacitive loads. A capacitive load reduces the phase margin. When this reaches zero degrees Uncle Oscillation taps on your door.
Re: BG Std
The BG make a big difference. I honestly believe the BG and the LM4562 are a perfect combination. TBH the BG around any opamp or descrete pcb are superb.
Brent
Malefoda said:
The BG make a big difference. I honestly believe the BG and the LM4562 are a perfect combination. TBH the BG around any opamp or descrete pcb are superb.
Brent
Yes, but what I used were new-old-stock 220uF Cerafines. Better than what was in there and not "dried up". I'd not change them. But I will eventually put S Power regs in for the discrete output stage.
Yes Cerafines are very nice when they haven't already been sitting in the player for ten years!
i dun quite understand the specs but is the ad826 similar to the ad827, I am currently having the ad826 in my cdp.
Oops, I think i replace with lotsa cerafines, the BGs are really expensive, almost double the cos of cerafines.
Oops, I think i replace with lotsa cerafines, the BGs are really expensive, almost double the cos of cerafines.
AD826 can drive capacitive loads (according to data sheet).
It's still good practice to use the series resistor, you will only benefit from it. You won't get any benefit going below 75R in my opinion. It's not as if you're driving an 8 ohm speaker.
It's still good practice to use the series resistor, you will only benefit from it. You won't get any benefit going below 75R in my opinion. It's not as if you're driving an 8 ohm speaker.
avr300 said:
LOL. I guess "wow" isn't too descriptive.
With the NX Hi-Q's on the digital rails the sound-stage was thrown wide open. I didn't think that this level of three dimensionality was possible without more superregs. Detail levels are now superb, as is separation, vocalists sound like they're in the middle of the room and you can follow every word throughout the mix. The sound improved on every level and really sweetened up. The Guillemots literally exploded from the speakers! It's quite strange because it now sounds far less analytical than before.
From what I've read the nx series has lower noise than any elco or film capacitor on the market.
Bitten by the bug, I also added two 2200uF 35v BG FK's for the opamp supply rails. This improved things further, especially the bass, but no where near as dramatic a difference as the nx's.
Regards, Lee.
Those 2200uF FK are really good, I recommend them to anyone. What they do so far from the opamps is amazing.
I'm going to add another pair to double it up soon.
Brent
I'm going to add another pair to double it up soon.
Brent
Re: Re: Re: 67 SE no left channel output UPDATE!
😀
well, i was hoping no one would ask lol! when i went to test unit after mod i decided to set it on my sub insted of putting it back in the entertainment center (pain in the butt) and test it first. of course, the left channel interconnect had to get pulled out of its jack on my Adcom preamp. found that out when i decided to plug my sattellite audio into the cd inputs in order to test cd section on preamp as i could find nothing else to be wrong. what a joke! i took that board out three times! boy did i feel stupid!rowemeister said:
😀
I hard-wired new ribbons to my mech last night. That was a fun fun fun fun soldering job with a blunt tip! Actually it went ok and I lifted 0/30 pads, so maybe I'm not "pad-lifter" anymore 😉
The player initially worked (and of course sounded great) but was still fussy skipping tracks. I went to the pub for a pint. Came back. Swapped the CD. Then it just made grating noises and didn't stop. Turned off for a while and back on - no grating but a different and almost as wrong noise and no reading of the TOC.
I guess we're down to the clock or laser. I have a new laser already so I'll probably pop that in this evening before steam levels rise...
Just thought you'd all enjoy that
Simon
The player initially worked (and of course sounded great) but was still fussy skipping tracks. I went to the pub for a pint. Came back. Swapped the CD. Then it just made grating noises and didn't stop. Turned off for a while and back on - no grating but a different and almost as wrong noise and no reading of the TOC.
I guess we're down to the clock or laser. I have a new laser already so I'll probably pop that in this evening before steam levels rise...
Just thought you'd all enjoy that
Simon