I would run the 5V regs off the raw 10V (usually 12V) from C813.
Then later you really need a seperate PSU.
Brent
Then later you really need a seperate PSU.
Brent
Hi Brent,
I followed some of the mods in Ray's list.
Basically I changed the PSU caps of the various power supplies, both pre regulator, post regulator and near stuff like the DAC, Servo, opamp.
Bypassed the HDAM and also did the acoustica clock hack.
Disc doesn't spin at all.
I followed some of the mods in Ray's list.
Basically I changed the PSU caps of the various power supplies, both pre regulator, post regulator and near stuff like the DAC, Servo, opamp.
Bypassed the HDAM and also did the acoustica clock hack.
Disc doesn't spin at all.
rowemeister said:
It's probably to do with the clock hack then. Either that or the lovely mech ribbon connector. My player is out of action till I hardwire that now.... 
I can feel the tremors of the withdrawal syptoms from the other side of the Pennines.................
SimontY said:It's probably to do with the clock hack then. Either that or the lovely mech ribbon connector. My player is out of action till I hardwire that now....
What about hard-wiring mech pcb to a 15 pin d-sub connector and the main board to a d-sub socket (computer monitor connectors)? I wonder if it would interfere with the signal too much.
Lee.
jimh0612 said:I can feel the tremors of the withdrawal syptoms from the other side of the Pennines.................
Oh yes, I've had to make do with Regina Spektor MP3s. Nice music but the sound is soooooo rubbish!!! I'm dying here!
Thomo said:
Too much of a pain. Better to solder straight across like Brent did and unplug the transport from the mech board. Also dodgy but perhaps the lesser of two evils. And I don't plan to take her apart much now. She sounds awesome and I want her to work!
Simon
Here is my ribbon - the laser sounds much healthier now too.
Brent
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Brent
Looks spot on. Where did you get the ribbon from Brent?
I don't recognise it at all. I've built lots of PC's but never seen one like that. I've got quite a few IDE connectors lying around 80 strand etc and also SCSI cables. As these are designed to take high speed digital signals do you think any of these would be OK?
Jim
I don't recognise it at all. I've built lots of PC's but never seen one like that. I've got quite a few IDE connectors lying around 80 strand etc and also SCSI cables. As these are designed to take high speed digital signals do you think any of these would be OK?
Jim
Thanks Brent.
So you use the ribbon to connect the PCB's for servo control etc and the coax for signal, right?
So you use the ribbon to connect the PCB's for servo control etc and the coax for signal, right?
YEP
No more intermittent reading of discs with that bad boy fitted.
So annoying when so much effort and parts have been fitted to the player and a poop ribbon connector stops it all working.
I'm not sure how well IDE cables will stand up to flexing with other mods if direct soldered.
Brent
No more intermittent reading of discs with that bad boy fitted.
So annoying when so much effort and parts have been fitted to the player and a poop ribbon connector stops it all working.
I'm not sure how well IDE cables will stand up to flexing with other mods if direct soldered.
Brent
Yeah not sure myself. There is a lot of vibration inside a PC with the hard drive mech, CDrom, cooling fan, etc., and they stand up to that.
As regards signal integrity, crosstalk etc the 80 conductor ones are designed for the high speed drives which pump out a lot of data. If alternate conductors were used that would help further.
If not why spoil the ship for a ha'porth of tar. Bite the bullet. The ones from RS don't cost much anyway!!
Jim
As regards signal integrity, crosstalk etc the 80 conductor ones are designed for the high speed drives which pump out a lot of data. If alternate conductors were used that would help further.
If not why spoil the ship for a ha'porth of tar. Bite the bullet. The ones from RS don't cost much anyway!!
Jim
The IDE cables in the pc are clamped into a plug and therefore are ok. I have used IDE cables direct soldered and they don't like lots of flexing.
I use those ribbons at work for joining pcbs in test equipment so we buy loads of em.
Brent
I use those ribbons at work for joining pcbs in test equipment so we buy loads of em.
Brent
Hi Simon
Hope the cable discussion helps with your problem.
Slightly OT my Mission 730's are really bugging me to the extent that I only listen on my Grado's now
. They were a Currys special (mistake!!) bought with my Kenwood 3020SE in my pre Marantz days.
You are in to speakers etc. and I wondered if you could point me to the best forum for modding (if you think they are worth modding).
If not my budget (in due course) might stretch to a pair of Kef iQ5's or similar.
Thanks
Jim
Hope the cable discussion helps with your problem.
Slightly OT my Mission 730's are really bugging me to the extent that I only listen on my Grado's now
. They were a Currys special (mistake!!) bought with my Kenwood 3020SE in my pre Marantz days.You are in to speakers etc. and I wondered if you could point me to the best forum for modding (if you think they are worth modding).
If not my budget (in due course) might stretch to a pair of Kef iQ5's or similar.
Thanks
Jim
Brent
Thanks for the advice.
I'll probably make it one of the last mods anyway cos of the flexing issue.
Jim
Thanks for the advice.
I'll probably make it one of the last mods anyway cos of the flexing issue.
Jim
jimh0612 said:Hi Simon
Hope the cable discussion helps with your problem.
Slightly OT my Mission 730's are really bugging me to the extent that I only listen on my Grado's now
You are in to speakers etc. and I wondered if you could point me to the best forum for modding (if you think they are worth modding).
If not my budget (in due course) might stretch to a pair of Kef iQ5's or similar.
Thanks
Jim
I'm getting two of the cables Brent suggested. Hopefully will solder those in this week. Then I might pop in the new laser too. Should be my reading woes over!
WRT speakers - you need to think carefully about what your needs are. Then decide if you want to go DIY or buy. Buying 2nd hand will probably buy the most speaker for your money. DIY can get you a more tailored result though, and it can be satisying!
Don't buy a kit without hearing it first or getting a jolly good description from someone that knows it. I made this (costly) mistake and paid £450 for an Audiocom/Seas kit. It's taken me years to get the sound I like from it, and it's now rather good. The original x-over was tailored for a "German" sound - analytical, harsh, can't play pop music etc.
A friend had great success with an IPL transmission line kit. The sound is creamy smooth with a lovely effortless extended bass - it seems this kind of bass only comes from transmission lines. Not the last word in detail or neutrality - the opposite of mine.
Regards
Simon
Thanks for that Simon.
Wise words.
The opposite of what I did when I bought the speakers originally, on an impulse because A-Ha sounded teriffic in the shop.
Trouble was, it didn't sound anything like that at home at normal volumes, and neither did anything else!!
Wise words.
The opposite of what I did when I bought the speakers originally, on an impulse because A-Ha sounded teriffic in the shop.
Trouble was, it didn't sound anything like that at home at normal volumes, and neither did anything else!!
