rowemeister said:
Brent - if you really mean this, then I'll choose to be lazy and not build the discrete output stage. 😱
I have the 4562 running now, with standard caps in C805-806 , 3x7 regs, 1R5 in R613-R616 and low ESR (Pany FC) in C611-C614.
It's nice 'n fast and sounds real.
Having heard Brent's I'd say it's probably worth going discrete if you have the time and money. But otherwise the LM4562 is superb and the DIP package drops straight in!
😀
Got three, oh and a new company is born 😉 Cost me $10 in delivery! So, for the fourth do I get to order another one next week?? Im taking it is four? Ive not even looked inside the CDP yet, not even looked at the service manual!
Many thanks
Stuart
Got three, oh and a new company is born 😉 Cost me $10 in delivery! So, for the fourth do I get to order another one next week?? Im taking it is four? Ive not even looked inside the CDP yet, not even looked at the service manual!
Many thanks
Stuart
stueyh said:
You need two DIPs, I hope you got the right type. You'll have one spare. I got 5 samples, can you only get 3 now??
Simon
Anyone tried a Zapfilter in their Marantz? I have a Zapfilter mkII in a chinese Zhaolu DAC using a CS4398 chip and the sound is just ridiculously good considering the price. I'm probably too lazy to try it out myself and the DAC is very versatile as I can use it with DVDs, digital tv and with the computer too.
YoungSC said:
I put new fuses in and they blew when I turned the player on.
R164 looks like it's a bridge.
I will measure some more resistors tonight to make sure they're the correct value. Any suggestions for where the problem might be?
Thanks,
Simon (Oz)
Chances are the 5V reg is faulty (or any other regs you may have fitted off that supply rail). The bridge to the reg may also have a short.
Brent
Brent
YoungSC said:
If you haven't already, I'd suggest taking the board out and examining the bottom for loose solder drops, snipped of pins etc. causing a short.
It's happened to me many times. Many, many times.
Regards
Pete
bypassing the board
Hi everyone,
I like to connect a wire bypass straight from the op amps out to new rca jacks, because one channel has no sound. I ripped an eyelet out of the one of the resistor mountings doing the hdam bypass when i was not paying enough attention.
Tried to fill it up with solder but to no avail.
Could anyone tell me which opamp pins to signal out and which to ground.
Many Thanks,
Chuck.
Hi everyone,
I like to connect a wire bypass straight from the op amps out to new rca jacks, because one channel has no sound. I ripped an eyelet out of the one of the resistor mountings doing the hdam bypass when i was not paying enough attention.
Tried to fill it up with solder but to no avail. Could anyone tell me which opamp pins to signal out and which to ground.
Many Thanks,
Chuck.
Re: bypassing the board
Annoying isn't it?
You need to take the ground from the analogue ground next to the original RCA jacks. The op-amp has no ground, it has +12V and -12V and the input and output signals are referenced to ground but there is no ground connection on the op-amp. The signal leaves on pin 7. Don't connect it straight to the jacks - use a 75R-100R resistor between the two.
Hope this helps!
Glenn
angchuck said:Hi everyone,
I like to connect a wire bypass straight from the op amps out to new rca jacks, because one channel has no sound. I ripped an eyelet out of the one of the resistor mountings doing the hdam bypass when i was not paying enough attention.
Could anyone tell me which opamp pins to signal out and which to ground.
Many Thanks,
Chuck.
Annoying isn't it?
You need to take the ground from the analogue ground next to the original RCA jacks. The op-amp has no ground, it has +12V and -12V and the input and output signals are referenced to ground but there is no ground connection on the op-amp. The signal leaves on pin 7. Don't connect it straight to the jacks - use a 75R-100R resistor between the two.
Hope this helps!
Glenn
Hi Guys,
A few questions to those of you that have played with the many incarnations of the CD-63 and CD-67 (Ray, Brent, ...)
When the CD-63 went to the MkII version - what changed?
The the CD-67SE became CD-67MkIIOSE - what changed?
When Ken Ishiwata 'breathed on' the 63, was it just a bit of copper plating and a toroidal transformer or did other things change (from the 63SE).
So, including both 63 and 67 (and baby brothers using same/similar PCB) we have:
CD-43
CD-53
CD-53MkII
CD-63
CD-63SE
CD-63SE KI Sig
CD-63MkII
CD-63MkII SE
CD-63MkII SE KI Sig
CD-57
CD-57MkII
CD-67
CD-67SE
CD-67MkII
CD-67MkII OSE
Have I missed any?!
I won't throw in the 6000s!
A few questions to those of you that have played with the many incarnations of the CD-63 and CD-67 (Ray, Brent, ...)
When the CD-63 went to the MkII version - what changed?
The the CD-67SE became CD-67MkIIOSE - what changed?
When Ken Ishiwata 'breathed on' the 63, was it just a bit of copper plating and a toroidal transformer or did other things change (from the 63SE).
So, including both 63 and 67 (and baby brothers using same/similar PCB) we have:
CD-43
CD-53
CD-53MkII
CD-63
CD-63SE
CD-63SE KI Sig
CD-63MkII
CD-63MkII SE
CD-63MkII SE KI Sig
CD-57
CD-57MkII
CD-67
CD-67SE
CD-67MkII
CD-67MkII OSE
Have I missed any?!
I won't throw in the 6000s!
HI.
CD43/53 have no HDAM. No remote ??
CD63 has HDAM
Major differences are component values and types.
There are minor transformer variations mainly depending on country.
====================
The main difference with the KI is the toroid transformer. The KI (also SE) has a brace across the chassis and a reinforcing plate on the bottom.
The KI has a plated chassis and also 'better' components.
============
For modding purposes, the CD53 is the best player to buy.
Andy
CD43/53 have no HDAM. No remote ??
CD63 has HDAM
Major differences are component values and types.
There are minor transformer variations mainly depending on country.
====================
The main difference with the KI is the toroid transformer. The KI (also SE) has a brace across the chassis and a reinforcing plate on the bottom.
The KI has a plated chassis and also 'better' components.
============
For modding purposes, the CD53 is the best player to buy.
Andy
Hi Andy,
Yes, what I really wanted to know was:
a) was happened between Mk1 and Mk2 versions.
b) other than tranny and casework, what else does the KI have.
I've heard before that the KI has better components.... but I can't see any evidence of this apart from the transformer. My old bog-standard CD-63 had the full complement of Silmics and Cerafines etc. The HDAM covers were not copper like the SE/KI.
(BTW - The 53 lacks HDAM and optical out, 43 lacks HDAM, optical out and remote. They also use ceramic capacitors in the LPF. The 43 also has lower-grade op-amps and no audio electrolytics.)
Yes, what I really wanted to know was:
a) was happened between Mk1 and Mk2 versions.
b) other than tranny and casework, what else does the KI have.
I've heard before that the KI has better components.... but I can't see any evidence of this apart from the transformer. My old bog-standard CD-63 had the full complement of Silmics and Cerafines etc. The HDAM covers were not copper like the SE/KI.
(BTW - The 53 lacks HDAM and optical out, 43 lacks HDAM, optical out and remote. They also use ceramic capacitors in the LPF. The 43 also has lower-grade op-amps and no audio electrolytics.)