Glenn2 said:Simon - have you tried feeding your DAC, decoder and servo supplies from different electricity sub-stations yet? I've heard the improvement is remarkable!😀
I tried this!!!!
The pickup on the long leads was not very good so I had some fitted into my garden, the improvements were very good indeed.
Then I moved!!
Brent
Malefoda said:Ahah rich people, they replace Cerafine Caps!
I have questions: may the Led on the Flea be moved to somewhere else in order to make a kind of "power on" light? I think in the middle of the main switch will be nice.
Also, is there any backdraw of having 2 long wires to fit switch on the back of the CDP linked to U108 wich power on the display?
Nah, only the old ones...
I would keep the LED on the PCB. Long wires will pick up noise, and the LED is the voltage reference for the opamp. You'd want that to be as clean as possible. The switch for the display won't hurt I think. It will switch the heater voltage on and off if you use U108, should be o.k.
Ray.
I aint listened to any music lately as im trying to keep up with the posts
lol
I did the dac chip bypass mod yesterday, jeeeez that was fiddly getting 5 ceramics on there, but did it with no shorts (was wearing jeans!) lol
Next up is the blue led fitting to the cd assembly, needs to be accuratly placed ! Waiting for my toroid to arrive from RS next for the Clock PSU.

I did the dac chip bypass mod yesterday, jeeeez that was fiddly getting 5 ceramics on there, but did it with no shorts (was wearing jeans!) lol
Next up is the blue led fitting to the cd assembly, needs to be accuratly placed ! Waiting for my toroid to arrive from RS next for the Clock PSU.
For everybody who wants to have something to do this X-mas:
I put the PCB for the discrete output stage on-line. It's hot off the press, I checked it over and over, and I think it's finished. I uploaded CDR and EPS formats, so most of you should be able to print it. Pls. let me know if you encounter any errors, I didn't etch it yet myself...
It will fit the passive filter and transistor/FET stage, and dedicated voltage regulators. It fits on half a eurocard and the two PCB's can be separated for each channel if you like.
Regards,
Ray
I put the PCB for the discrete output stage on-line. It's hot off the press, I checked it over and over, and I think it's finished. I uploaded CDR and EPS formats, so most of you should be able to print it. Pls. let me know if you encounter any errors, I didn't etch it yet myself...
It will fit the passive filter and transistor/FET stage, and dedicated voltage regulators. It fits on half a eurocard and the two PCB's can be separated for each channel if you like.
Regards,
Ray
rowemeister said:Nice one Ray.
Lets see how many do what is only right for the cd player 😉
Brent
Thanks Brent! How's work progressing on your voltage regulators?
Now that I think of it, would you perhaps be interested in doing a small production run of the output PCB? I noticed the regulator boards, looks very nice...
I have no idea what the costs would be for a small series, maybe 25 pcs. ?
Regards,
Ray
ImSparticus said:I aint listened to any music lately as im trying to keep up with the postslol
I did the dac chip bypass mod yesterday, jeeeez that was fiddly getting 5 ceramics on there, but did it with no shorts (was wearing jeans!) lol
Next up is the blue led fitting to the cd assembly, needs to be accuratly placed ! Waiting for my toroid to arrive from RS next for the Clock PSU.
haha
Oh yes, you asked about my LEDs. I took a (terrible) picture for you.
At least it shows where you can mount them.
Attachments
Thanks Simon, thats exactly where i thought it went. Ill have ago at that one tomorow if i get chance.
Have you mounted the LEDs so they are centre of the disc, ie, shining through the disc rather than below it onto the laser and reflecting to the surface ?
I just tried some pana tsup 10000uf caps in my A400 amp(reservoir caps), used the 100uf Blackgates for the coupling in the A400 also, these where a redundant mod from the cd63 output. Needs burnin in a bit first. Then ill evaluate the led mod.
Have you mounted the LEDs so they are centre of the disc, ie, shining through the disc rather than below it onto the laser and reflecting to the surface ?
I just tried some pana tsup 10000uf caps in my A400 amp(reservoir caps), used the 100uf Blackgates for the coupling in the A400 also, these where a redundant mod from the cd63 output. Needs burnin in a bit first. Then ill evaluate the led mod.
Our man in NZ has got a lot to read when he gets up!
yeah this thread moves fast🙂
BTW I got my new laser locally it was cheap. All I gotta do is install it. Every time I think I gotta do it, the damn thing starts playing fine.
ImSparticus said:Thanks Simon, thats exactly where i thought it went. Ill have ago at that one tomorow if i get chance.
Have you mounted the LEDs so they are centre of the disc, ie, shining through the disc rather than below it onto the laser and reflecting to the surface ?
I just tried some pana tsup 10000uf caps in my A400 amp(reservoir caps), used the 100uf Blackgates for the coupling in the A400 also, these where a redundant mod from the cd63 output. Needs burnin in a bit first. Then ill evaluate the led mod.
They're mounted just below centre, so more of the light is spread under the disc than over it. Brent actually did this mod for me whilst he had the player, he's a good lad 😉
Goodnight all, and good day to our (Europeans') antipodean friends 😉
Simon
Have anyone uses the Tonerex caps from Elna..?
For the DAC, Servo and Decoder area where better caps should be use, what would be the ideal ratings without damaging the player. The mod list suggested some 470uf/10v and some 120uf/16v but i am unable to get those exact ratings and those of higher volts are either larger or more expensive!
managed to get 2 pieces of elna tonerex 100uf/25v which are rather small. but not sure if it will not be good enough.
For the DAC, Servo and Decoder area where better caps should be use, what would be the ideal ratings without damaging the player. The mod list suggested some 470uf/10v and some 120uf/16v but i am unable to get those exact ratings and those of higher volts are either larger or more expensive!
managed to get 2 pieces of elna tonerex 100uf/25v which are rather small. but not sure if it will not be good enough.
marcusdeming said:Have anyone uses the Tonerex caps from Elna..?
For the DAC, Servo and Decoder area where better caps should be use, what would be the ideal ratings without damaging the player. The mod list suggested some 470uf/10v and some 120uf/16v but i am unable to get those exact ratings and those of higher volts are either larger or more expensive!
managed to get 2 pieces of elna tonerex 100uf/25v which are rather small. but not sure if it will not be good enough.
Like I said in the e-mail I just sent you.... Make sure they're a suitable size (diameter mainly), capacitance, voltage rating (6.3v+) and good quality. The only damage you could do is blow a fuse if you put 22,000uF* caps in all the holes.
Simon
*random big number which might blow fuses on power-up
U mean 6.3v is enough....?
I am sorry if i seems to be following the list too religiously, cos i see most of those mentioned in the list for those area are btw 10-16v.
i was about to purchase the 1000uf for the opamps section the last time but was told by the sales guy that i might over heat and burn the ICs..
Are the Black gates really very impressive compared to the Cerafines..? The prices are almost doubled for the BGs..
I am sorry if i seems to be following the list too religiously, cos i see most of those mentioned in the list for those area are btw 10-16v.
i was about to purchase the 1000uf for the opamps section the last time but was told by the sales guy that i might over heat and burn the ICs..
Are the Black gates really very impressive compared to the Cerafines..? The prices are almost doubled for the BGs..

marcusdeming said:U mean 6.3v is enough....?
I am sorry if i seems to be following the list too religiously, cos i see most of those mentioned in the list for those area are btw 10-16v.
Yes, 6.3v is enough. The voltage in these circuits is +5vdc, so a 6.3v rating provides a small safety margin. The next very common voltage rating is 16v, which is why you see many people using 16v caps here.
i was about to purchase the 1000uf for the opamps section the last time but was told by the sales guy that i might over heat and burn the ICs..
The sales guy is either a joker or a n00b. No such thing will happen! lol
Are the Black gates really very impressive compared to the Cerafines..? The prices are almost doubled for the BGs..![]()
I've not directly compared, merely thrown some in the player and enjoyed it. I have replaced the post-reg caps in my preamp with Cerafine and the result was only a subtle positive change, no sonic fireworks, which is good.
If you want best value and peace of mind that you've done it as good as possible, then just use some Black Gates on the DAC's analogue pins like Ken Ishiwata did on the CD63KI-DP. You'll only need to buy two, and the other locations are a little less critical so you can use other caps.
Simon
That's interesting Simon - do you know what he used?
N? NX?
Do you know what else he changed?
Cheers...
N? NX?
Do you know what else he changed?
Cheers...
Glenn2 said:That's interesting Simon - do you know what he used?
N? NX?
Do you know what else he changed?
Cheers...
This model was discussed fairly recently in this thread. But good luck finding that!
He changed about 4 caps to Black Gate (DAC analogue pins we think and DC blocking caps), looked like BG Standard. He jumpered some fuse resistors and coated everything in copper (including the outside!!).
The price was £1000. It's not a serious upgrade, the price was to ensure nobody bought it as it was made for the reviewer David Price, and to be reviewed it needed to be available for sale!!
Some people actually paid for it, and of course they would be sorely disappointed (at least one person was!!).
Simon
It looks good. Do ours sound better ?
http://www.hifiwigwam.com/forum7/251-1.html
http://www.decware.com/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.cgi?board=Digital;action=display;num=1155255355
http://www.hifiwigwam.com/forum7/251-1.html
http://www.decware.com/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.cgi?board=Digital;action=display;num=1155255355
Malefoda said:It looks good. Do ours sound better ?
http://www.hifiwigwam.com/forum7/251-1.html
http://www.decware.com/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.cgi?board=Digital;action=display;num=1155255355
The CD63ki was originally a £500 machine. Maybe the DP mods bring it to the level of £600. My own mods bring mine to maybe £1000 or so and Brent's player sounds like it could cost anything, the sky's the limit.
Slot your own in and tell your friends it's worth lots!
Simon
Does anyone know where the sa7001 fitrs into the product line? Is it the replacement for the sa8400?
Anyone heard one of these or know whats inside? Maybe its time to treat myself, althought Im quite curious about this
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1085696#post1085696
Anyone heard one of these or know whats inside? Maybe its time to treat myself, althought Im quite curious about this
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1085696#post1085696
Hi guys,
I've just missed an auction on eBay, a CD63SE, but in fact I'm not sure: does this one feature the copper chassis and toroidal supply? Is it the KI?
If no there's quite no diffrence between this and my modded CD53, maybe mine is already better 😉
I've just missed an auction on eBay, a CD63SE, but in fact I'm not sure: does this one feature the copper chassis and toroidal supply? Is it the KI?
If no there's quite no diffrence between this and my modded CD53, maybe mine is already better 😉
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